ScumbagS130
-
Posts
22 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by ScumbagS130
-
-
* Ignore this. How do you delete on a phone?!Lol.
-
Air flow meter have part numbers specific to location and years. I would try and find the correct air flow meter. That being said I don't think the wrong air flow meter could cause your problem. What are the pin outputs on your fam and your connector?I am using probably the wrong airflow meter because I only have 4 pins on it, while my connector has 5 pins
One air flow meters has 7 pins, the other has 5, and the plug on the harness has 5 pins. But it actually runs better with the one that has 7 pins. How would different locations of airflow meters effect the car? I've tried looking for people to part out an '83 but no luck. One of the '79 afm came off my '79 as the car was running fine along with the other afm, but the guy was parting out his car and was running fine also, which is why I tried them, but not sure if the '79 and '83 afm are different.
-
Hey all, I was trying to find info on switching airflow meters around but can't find anything. Here's my problem. I have a '83 non turbo zx and the car was running fine before we stored it away. Now that it will be back to being driven again, it's not running right. When it's at idle, it idles fine. But when I give it gas, it sounds as if it wants to turn off, or close to it. Then after I hold the gas down to about 2500-3000 rpm, it runs fine as if nothing's wrong. I'm guessing its the air flow meter because the one it's using is from a '79. have 2 '79 air flow meters and plugged them in but it still doesn't run right. Just after 2500-3000rpm. Does you guys know if they're interchangeable or is there another problem I should be attending to? I've replaced spark plugs, wires, and a alternator, But nothing. All your help would be appreciated.
-
Yes, you could just put a ring terminal on it and connect it to the negative side of the coil with the other wire. If you take the small plastic cover from the fender well where the black/white wire comes from, it should be part of the same harness. Probably will have to make it longer as it looks like they used part of it for the HEI conversion
I found the cable and now the tach is reading. Thanks a lot aarang.! Now off to another question. My temp gauge sensor isnt working either after they swapped it out the harness. I have the put in a coolant temp sensor and after plugging it in I noticed that the coolant reservoir fluid wouldnt even last, so I unplugged it. It still gets used up but not as much as when it was plugged in. Is the same wire for the temp gauge in the harness that the tach wire was in.?
-
Black with white is the positive wire from the ignition switch. Blue goes to the tach and should be on the negative side of the coil regardless of what is triggering it ( the coil). If there is no blue wire coming from the fender well, then most likely it is not hooked up unless it got rerouted some other way.
Yeah that blue cable goes from the negative side of the coil to 1 of the 4 points on the igniter. Is it possible to find that cable and splice it into and then connect it to the negative side?
-
The main cluster is the same between the turbo and the NA. (The tri cluster is different). Is the blue (IIRC) wire coming out of the inner fender on the driver side near the ignition coil hooked up
I checked for it and that cable is connected to the negative side of the coil and then connects to one part of the module I took the car to a shop in Whittier where they did the GM HEI swap and that's where that cable is at now. The only cable coming out of the fender is a black with white stripe, and to my knowledge that's the ground wire for the ECU. Does this help?
-
I finished switching out my non-turbo computer with a turbo computer etc, before the swap, my tachometer was reading, but after the swap it just stays at zero. When I turn the ignition on, I do notice that the needle does a minor twitch. Not sure if that helps, but just thought I would throw that in there. I checked to see if it was plugged in from the back and it is. I have no other idea what it could be or what I can do. This is a analog cluster. Any ideas.?
-
Damn, genesisautoparts.com doesn't carry aluminum radiators for the zx anymore.
Anyone know where to get an aluminum radiator that isn't motorsport auto.?
-
As some of you might know, I am doing the exact swap. 83' turbo engine to a 79'
I am almost done. I noticed some of you were talking about the HEI conversion, and it works well. I will post pictures tomorrow as to how I installed mines. When the car was turned on, it sounded as if the spark plugs were dirty, (The WRX sound) I was told to drive around for 20 miles to clean up spark plugs due it trying to be turned on repetitivly. It was unsuccessful and went off and bought completely new spark plugs. Nothing changed. Who knows what these people found out, but on my J-Pipe, theres a vent that connects to the intake manifold. What they did was put a bolt in the hose to minimize the amount of air entering the manifold. After that wizardly act, it runs perfect... Until I slow down and am going to enter the idling stage. One big problem I'm facing rite now is the car wanting to turn off when I am coming to a stop or if I'm driving at around 55mph and put it into neutral, it will also want to turn off then. This issue from what I've been told, is caused due to not having the Idle control solenoids. Those are bolted and are under the Airflow Meter on the stock turbo models. I will post pictures up of what they look like of that also. Hope this somewhat helps.
-
No prob and thank you very much for the update. I have a friend on his way over now. He used to be an automotive electrical electrician. Gonna see if he can help at all. He also builds cars still,but he got outta the dealership line of work as I did myself.
We're gonna go over everything and maybe he can tell if I have a bad part. Still didn't do the HEI swap,but it will be done either way. Today was a lucky day off for me and also lucky,that my friend happens to be off also!!! Maybe a sign of good things to come!? Like spark? Lol
I will def be updating again,after we're done today again. Wish me luck! This swap has been over a year long project now!
Losing faith and ambition! First time in like 2 weeks that I'm even gonna touch it!!!! If I didn't have soooo much money into it I'd sell it!Okay so this "box" is the Fuel Pump Control Module, which is the box that sits on top of the ecu. My main mechanic has a factory '83 turbo and we unplugged his module, it didnt start. Once it was connected again it started up again. Since the first person who was suppose to put in my turbo harness didnt know what was what, I took it to a shop in Whittier, CA called Mike's Z Shop. A guy named Mark said that that module wasnt necessary, but Im not sure why it didnt start with it unplugged.
I am also going with the HEI swap. Let me know how does that go.
Since we're both doing the same exact swap with the same motor, and same year zx, $5 bet on whoever finishes first.?Haha. And pointers as to how to get it running.
-
Thanks glup...Scumbag... Lol
I am def not familiar with that part at all. Now I will be reading AGAIN about another tucked away part? Lol Where's the part located and is this something that plugs into the EFI harness?
I have an 83 ECU and either an 82 or 83 harness. And yes,the engine is an 83.. Never heard or came across an,"Injector Drive Resistor" yet.
Thanks again for pointing something out. Didn't make it to the store today to grab the HEI ignitor but I DEF WILL TOMOR!
I gave out wrong information. Turns out the cable where this "injector drive" plugs into, is suppose to connect into some type of box that sits next to the ecu. This injector drive crap doesn't exist. That's what I was told what it was at the beginning. Next I was told it was a drop resistor which was I needed. But that was only for an 81 harness. The plug with 8 slots is meant for this box next to the ecu. This comes on the 82-83. Our 79 doesn't have this box.This is what I have gotten so far. I will keep on with the research tomorrow and let you know tomorrow as well. Again, I apologize for the wrong information.
-
More pictures on the oil filter threaded piping for the intercooler.?
-
Make sure you have the resistor pack for the injector drive. I have the same exact setup and that's the first problem we ran into when we began to install it.
-
I'm having the same problem. :/
-
205/50 on 8.5j is still stretched |:
step up the sidewall to 55 series, and then lower the car one inch; will net you the half inch drop you still want, but reduce wheelgap a whole bunch, and make the car look wayyyy better.
You blew my mind. But I feel a bunch of hate. ;(
Just joking.Haha.
I dont really know how to calculate the tire dimension. ;|
-
ROFLMAO I'm into Honda's (and vdubs) from way back. I even admired the cleverness of the first FEW hype stickers I saw on imports, but now I think they're almost as played out as stretched tires.
Im not into Hondas because of all these lame hypebeast stickers that everyone has, with the same parts, which makes no Honda unique. And Yes sir.Haha. Thats why Im sticking with 205/50/R15.
-
I can dig it.
Hope you plan on lowering it a bit to get those wheels to look better.
Also, would look way better with fewer hypebeast stickers
Hypebeast indeed. Im going to take them off in a bit. I feel like a loser Honda guy who thinks a bike rack is jdm.
As for lowering, Maybe about 1/2 inch more and I'll be set.
-
Here goes my beauty... Although it has many dings.Lol.
-
Welcome to turbo cars... get a wide band.
Haha. Yeah I plan on selling my na and turbo ecu/harness and get a Megasquirt.
-
People usually block off the relief valve if they plan on uping the boost. As for the factory bov if you plan on adding an aftermarket one on the intercooler pipng there is no use for the factory installed one.you could just cap it off. Do you plan on re circulating the bov or venting to atmosphere? The factory design itself is great in that it recirculates the vented boost so you dont run rich between gears.The downside is you dont get the woosh that sounds so cool. ita a toss up really.
Where exactly is the factory bov? On mines, where the relief valve should be, its blocked off. And i plan on a Synapse synchronized atmospheric bov.
I just wanted to know whether or not I should invest on the Greddy relief valve.
So since I dont have the factory relief valve, im running rich at the moment?
-
I currently have a turbo swapped '79 Z and im going to begin adding the intercooler, blow off valve, etc. My question is, what you would guys recommend I do with the pop off relief valve and blow off valve. Should I block off where the relief valve and just add a blow off valve, or should should it go the other way around? Is there a benefit if i were to have both of them?
Losing faith and ambition! 
Potential Air flow meter problems.
in S130 Series - 280ZX
Posted
It was for about 8 months. And I doubt it, we drained it and put in new fuel.