ScumbagS130

It was for about 8 months. And I doubt it, we drained it and put in new fuel.

* Ignore this. How do you delete on a phone?!Lol.

One air flow meters has 7 pins, the other has 5, and the plug on the harness has 5 pins. But it actually runs better with the one that has 7 pins. How would different locations of airflow meters effect the car? I've tried looking for people to part out an '83 but no luck. One of the '79 afm came off my '79 as the car was running fine along with the other afm, but the guy was parting out his car and was running fine also, which is why I tried them, but not sure if the '79 and '83 afm are different.

Hey all, I was trying to find info on switching airflow meters around but can't find anything. Here's my problem. I have a '83 non turbo zx and the car was running fine before we stored it away. Now that it will be back to being driven again, it's not running right. When it's at idle, it idles fine. But when I give it gas, it sounds as if it wants to turn off, or close to it. Then after I hold the gas down to about 2500-3000 rpm, it runs fine as if nothing's wrong. I'm guessing its the air flow meter because the one it's using is from a '79. have 2 '79 air flow meters and plugged them in but it still doesn't run right. Just after 2500-3000rpm. Does you guys know if they're interchangeable or is there another problem I should be attending to? I've replaced spark plugs, wires, and a alternator, But nothing. All your help would be appreciated.

I found the cable and now the tach is reading. Thanks a lot aarang.! Now off to another question. My temp gauge sensor isnt working either after they swapped it out the harness. I have the put in a coolant temp sensor and after plugging it in I noticed that the coolant reservoir fluid wouldnt even last, so I unplugged it. It still gets used up but not as much as when it was plugged in. Is the same wire for the temp gauge in the harness that the tach wire was in.?

Yeah that blue cable goes from the negative side of the coil to 1 of the 4 points on the igniter. Is it possible to find that cable and splice it into and then connect it to the negative side?

I checked for it and that cable is connected to the negative side of the coil and then connects to one part of the module I took the car to a shop in Whittier where they did the GM HEI swap and that's where that cable is at now. The only cable coming out of the fender is a black with white stripe, and to my knowledge that's the ground wire for the ECU. Does this help?

I finished switching out my non-turbo computer with a turbo computer etc, before the swap, my tachometer was reading, but after the swap it just stays at zero. When I turn the ignition on, I do notice that the needle does a minor twitch. Not sure if that helps, but just thought I would throw that in there. I checked to see if it was plugged in from the back and it is. I have no other idea what it could be or what I can do. This is a analog cluster. Any ideas.?

Damn, genesisautoparts.com doesn't carry aluminum radiators for the zx anymore. Anyone know where to get an aluminum radiator that isn't motorsport auto.?

As some of you might know, I am doing the exact swap. 83' turbo engine to a 79' I am almost done. I noticed some of you were talking about the HEI conversion, and it works well. I will post pictures tomorrow as to how I installed mines. When the car was turned on, it sounded as if the spark plugs were dirty, (The WRX sound) I was told to drive around for 20 miles to clean up spark plugs due it trying to be turned on repetitivly. It was unsuccessful and went off and bought completely new spark plugs. Nothing changed. Who knows what these people found out, but on my J-Pipe, theres a vent that connects to the intake manifold. What they did was put a bolt in the hose to minimize the amount of air entering the manifold. After that wizardly act, it runs perfect... Until I slow down and am going to enter the idling stage. One big problem I'm facing rite now is the car wanting to turn off when I am coming to a stop or if I'm driving at around 55mph and put it into neutral, it will also want to turn off then. This issue from what I've been told, is caused due to not having the Idle control solenoids. Those are bolted and are under the Airflow Meter on the stock turbo models. I will post pictures up of what they look like of that also. Hope this somewhat helps.

Okay so this "box" is the Fuel Pump Control Module, which is the box that sits on top of the ecu. My main mechanic has a factory '83 turbo and we unplugged his module, it didnt start. Once it was connected again it started up again. Since the first person who was suppose to put in my turbo harness didnt know what was what, I took it to a shop in Whittier, CA called Mike's Z Shop. A guy named Mark said that that module wasnt necessary, but Im not sure why it didnt start with it unplugged. I am also going with the HEI swap. Let me know how does that go. Since we're both doing the same exact swap with the same motor, and same year zx, $5 bet on whoever finishes first.?Haha. And pointers as to how to get it running.

I gave out wrong information. Turns out the cable where this "injector drive" plugs into, is suppose to connect into some type of box that sits next to the ecu. This injector drive crap doesn't exist. That's what I was told what it was at the beginning. Next I was told it was a drop resistor which was I needed. But that was only for an 81 harness. The plug with 8 slots is meant for this box next to the ecu. This comes on the 82-83. Our 79 doesn't have this box.This is what I have gotten so far. I will keep on with the research tomorrow and let you know tomorrow as well. Again, I apologize for the wrong information.

More pictures on the oil filter threaded piping for the intercooler.?

Make sure you have the resistor pack for the injector drive. I have the same exact setup and that's the first problem we ran into when we began to install it.

I'm having the same problem. :/

You blew my mind. But I feel a bunch of hate. ;( Just joking.Haha. I dont really know how to calculate the tire dimension. ;|

Im not into Hondas because of all these lame hypebeast stickers that everyone has, with the same parts, which makes no Honda unique. And Yes sir.Haha. Thats why Im sticking with 205/50/R15.

Hypebeast indeed. Im going to take them off in a bit. I feel like a loser Honda guy who thinks a bike rack is jdm. As for lowering, Maybe about 1/2 inch more and I'll be set.

Here goes my beauty... Although it has many dings.Lol.

Haha. Yeah I plan on selling my na and turbo ecu/harness and get a Megasquirt.

Where exactly is the factory bov? On mines, where the relief valve should be, its blocked off. And i plan on a Synapse synchronized atmospheric bov. I just wanted to know whether or not I should invest on the Greddy relief valve. So since I dont have the factory relief valve, im running rich at the moment?

I currently have a turbo swapped '79 Z and im going to begin adding the intercooler, blow off valve, etc. My question is, what you would guys recommend I do with the pop off relief valve and blow off valve. Should I block off where the relief valve and just add a blow off valve, or should should it go the other way around? Is there a benefit if i were to have both of them?