dizzle
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Posts posted by dizzle
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Here's mine
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I have a RB25det running SDS EFI standalone. I have had the car on the road for almost 3 years without ever hooking up the VCT and it ran great. I finally decided to hook up the VCT trying to get a little bit better spool/midrange power. I am using a summit racing RPM window switch to control it (right now it is on at 1100 and of at 4500 which is about factory specs). The problem is that when the VCT turns off as the rpms fall down to idle, the engine stumbles badly and then dies. A/F values do not seem out of wack, but it just dies. I kind of feel like as the VCT turns off the transition of the cam phasing is taking too long, leaving the cam in the middle "position". The cams are stock, head is stock, Freddy manifold, 450cc injectors. I know the solenoid is activating because I can hear it clicking on. I also tried to raise the activation point to give it more time between on/off and idle rpm but it still dies. Could something be clogged in the head since I never used it for so long? I know the cam is "phasing" as it should because the engine sound changes distinctly with it on.
Any ideas???
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Is the diff mounted dead on center or is it set off to one side? And I understand the 3 deg but is that the physcial angle of the engine or is it the operating angle of the joint (i.e. the angle between the 2 sides of the u joint which in this case is the output/input flange of diff or tranny in relation to the driveshaft)? right now I am at 2.5 deg down on the trans and 2.3 deg up on the diff. I am running the STI diff with stock mustache bar (w/ stock bushings) and an RT mount diff mount. I am starting to wonder if the engine is set off to one side or something. Is there a good way to measure this side to side placement? It can be kind of hard to get a good frame of reference on a 30+ yr old car. I would still love to know what the stock angles are if anyone has them
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Does anyone with know what the stock driveline angles are in the s30? I have been battling a vibration in my rb swapped s30 for over a year now and have had it! I am 1 more try away from just dropping the car off somewhere. So if someone could measure their stock angles (someone with no vibration hopefully), I have the RT diff mount so I have adjustability. I am getting vibration at 60 mph and above that it is just growling from the rear with this high speed vibration. Please help!
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I have the Subaru STI rear in my s30 w/ rb25 and I love it! Used the Beta Motorsports adapters. My is about 375-400 whp, but is a street car in every way. The weak spot in this set up is the halfshafts. If you are going to be drag racing a lot, and trying to launch with those 275 tires (looks sick by the way) you are going to need do some sort of a CV swap with whatever diff you choose.
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I found out that the AEM wideband w/ the analog gauge will not work with SDS and probably a few other things. The digital readout AEM will. AEM in their vast knowledge decided to take out the ability to vary the output scale on the analog readout gauge. On the digital readout one there is a dial to select the scale. So I guess I will have to get the digital one...
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I had a sticky spring on my BOV that caused the same thing. Once the BOV loosened up it went away though.
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Dear god man, that is a lot of AN fittings!!! Do you have any problems with smoking from the exhaust with the catch can vented to the exhaust? I know they do that in race cars to create vacuum under the piston down stroke and "hyper" seal the rings. But I thought it resulted in extra smoke coming from the exhaust and excess wear? Never tried it so I don't know. Did you test how much vac you are pulling with it running? Build looks great! Wish I had a TIG welder and a little more skill:(
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Not to thread jack, but is there a real benefit to running the pcv from the valve cover to the intake manifold? I just have a breather filter on it and the ports of the top of the valve covers to a catch can.
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Yeah sorry for the cell phone pics...
I got my Holset hx35, I am waiting for the new t3 single scroll turbine housing and the polished compressor housing. Can't wait to see how it spools on the rb25! Just in time to put the car away for the winter...
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The timing belt idler pulley bolt sheared off in the block. I have read about it happening to a few people. God only knows how the japanese throw these things into a shipping container? Look at all of our crank pulleys that are always cracked to hell:)
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I have a em6f on my rb25 and the AEM Wideband O2 with the analog dial gauge. Problem is the dial and the readout on the SDS are about a point off??? The gauge said it was calibrated before it left the factory. And when I used to have the Digital readout AEM gauge I never "noticed" any difference. Anyone seen this?
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This was my first and only Z I've owned. And of course the first thing I did was search engine swaps and found Hybridz.org. I have been working on this car for 3 years now, and pretty much everything I learned about this car was with hybridZ help. So I figured I would finally stop trolling the boards and post up my build pics.
MOD LIST
73'240z
Engine
-RB25det series 1
-RB20det trans w/ custom driveshaft
-ACT HD clutch and Pressure Plate
-Custom made exhaust manifold
-Garrett T3/T4 60 trim turbo (HX35 coming soon)
-ISIS Intake manifold (port matched)
-Q45 Throttle Body
-Homemade fuel rail
-DSM 450cc top feed injectors
-Precision FMIC
-1g DSM BOV (crushed to hold more psi)
-SDS EM6f standalone ECU
-Full Blown Manual Boost Control
-all new OEM gaskets /pumps etc
-200ZR oil pan and pick up(one of the last sold in the US)
-All manifolds were powdercoated (even the exhaust, thanks Eastwood...)
-Wrinkle Black Powder coat on valve covers (thinking of doing something a little flashier, we'll see)
-3" Custom made mandrel bent exhaust with 1 Vibrant 3" resonator and 1 3" Borla straight through muffler)
-Lightweight underdrive waterpump pulley
-Griffon aluminum radiator
-Walbro CS392 external fuel pump
-3/8" aluminum fuel feed/return lines
-Ebay short shift
-Spectere Air filter (hood rich!!!)
I think that's it, funny who sometimes it is hard to remember what you spent money on huh?
Body
Luckily the car had very little rust and had only spent one garaged winter in Minnesota.
-Shaved side moldings
-Shaved antenna
-Shaved rear hatch released
-De-badged
-Shaved side markers
-Shaved engine bay
-Shaved battery tray
-ZG flares
-whole car shot in Lexus Grey Mattalic
-Flares and rear tail light bezel all sprayed in satin Rally Black
-Custom made bumper brackets front and rear
-Painless wiring harness
-Relocated battery to trunk
-Quick disconnects on engine harness (3 plugs and she's out)
-Hummer H2 Headlights w/ H3 blubs (drop in replacement)
-16x8" XXR type 002 wheels (I know, but they were in the budget)
Suspension and Drivetrain
-Stainless brake lines
-Stainless clutch line
-Tockico Illumina Shocks
-Generic lowering springs (cut to get a decent stance)
-Poly bushings throughout
-Z31 R200
-STI R180 sitting on the shelf ready for Beta side axles(shipping end of this month, Yay!)
-R/T style front diff mount
-280zxt CV shafts
-all suspension pieces blasted and coated in POR15
-Coilovers are in the works right now
Interior
-Custom made carpet
-VW Corrado Recaro seats
-Custom made door panels
-All done in black leather w/ grey perforated inserts
Picture time...
What it first looked like when I got it. L24 water pump broke so instead of fixing it for 30$, decided on an RB20det (FAIL)
Seats after they were upholstered
original RB20 setup
Painless harness getting ready
Dashboard fixing
all better:)
new door panels
First road worthy pic, I miss the white to be honest:(
3" exhaust
Well after 15 miles the Rb20 went POW so back to the drawing board. But a week later I found a local guy who was build a drift car and never decided to use this, so RB25 longblock showed up a week later.
after cleaning it up and ISIS manifold, bolted up the rb20 exhaust side and turbo
starting to shave bay
Painter was going to be busy for a while so I was just going to drop er' back in and drive for the summer
Engine ready to go back in
that's better
Drove that way all summer, fall came and back for body and paint
all back together at my first real show I brought her to
Current pics
The later pics are with the GT3782 on there, WAY too big!
With the t3/t4 I was making around 350whp at 19psi
Thanks hybridz!!!
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The 370z isn't mine, but I had to put them next to each other for a pic. It was at our Z drive that day, I was the only s30.
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Now I just need to paint them:)
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I found the on a 73' 240z in a junkyard. I dont know if they were custom or an option or what??
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no these, the stubs that snap into the STI r180 diff and let you run the stock S30 axles
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I should have gotten my name on the list sooner, but I didn't. Next run is in October they said. If anyone bought these and changed their minds, isn't in a hurry, or any other reason imaginable please let me know...
Thanks,
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here is one of the sites that I used for reference. Right now my car is fairly smooth, I think driving it with the poor drivetrain alignment might have ruined one of u joints. But trust me I feel your pain, I messed with this way too may times...
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/pinionangles.htm
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I had the same problem, I drilled a hole close to the edge, tapped it. The RTV'd the hose adapter, set it in and tightened the bolt in the tapped hole. Had it in there for 2 years no problems, no one even notices...
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I have had 2 RB's now and both pulleys looked like that. I wish there was a cheaper alternative, but with the dampened pulley they are never cheap. Mine isn't quite that bad though:)
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Love the car!!! Keep with the pics...
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I am trying to use a vlsd from a j30 in my 240z longnose r200. I know that the carrier will bolt into the housing, and I have the 1mm spacers for the bolts. But from what I understand it seems like even if i could find a pair of Shiro axles, the spline would be different. So i went back to the U pull it yard and took the axles and stubs from the J30. These have the 6 bolt tripod CV's. I was doing a 280zx turbo cv shaft conversion anyway, so I tried to slip the J30 cv's onto the 280zx shafts, and they fit! Now the only problem is that with the length of the stub shaft and the cv joint, the axle ends up being a little too long. So I sent the stubs to a friend who is a wiz with the lathe and had him section the mounting flange from the shaft. Then shorten the j30 "cup" on the end of the stub axle. We designed a step to recenter the 2 pieces back together. Now all I need to do is Tig them back solid and the J30 inner cv's should work. The only part I am not sure of is if I can run the inner joint without the spring or not? But other than that I think this will work. I am picking up the stub axles tonight and I will try and get some pics up.
But has anyone done this kind of thing before?
And any advice with the cv spring??
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What size surge tank did you get? And where are you going to mount it?
I need to do this soon, since I cant corner too hard if I am under a 1/3 of a tank
RB26 running on SDS
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted
I have the SDS on my rb25det, just mounted the magnets on the crank pulley. Just unplug the CAS and remove it.