noelawinslow
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Posts posted by noelawinslow
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Forgive the fact that it's a napkin. Anyone see any issues with this?
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The fuel pump system has a wire that runs 12v when the engine is running. A relay connected to that could run the Bw wire to the fuse link only when the engine runs. That could also connect the accessory wire, and the push button would activate all three at once. Is there any drawback to running accessory, ignition, and starter at once?
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I don't understand the question. Which lights? The heater is vacuum operated, and there are wiring diagrams for the entire car. What year?
It sounds like you need to do some more research. Zdriver and other forums have color wiring diagrams. Start there. Study them for a good two hours. An engine swap needs wiring diagrams. There are even some LSx diagrams out there I've seen while looking for turbo swap information.
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Thank you.
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How do some of these setups sound? I'm about to build my exhaust system but I am aiming for a high pitched scream instead of a deep rumble.
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I've searched around but I must be doing it wrong, which prong on the coil is positive? I don't want to wire it in backward on my s30.
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It was in EM? I was looking in Engine Lube!
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Since I had to cut the AFM bracket away, I mounted the transistor to that. I need to grab the coil bracket now, I couldn't get it out with just my leatherman at the junk yard. Thanks for the link!
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Make sure you install the capacitor backward, or you won't get high beams. These kits are excellent. The cutoff is cleaner than a Lexus, VW, late model Nissan, and Ford factory HID setup. I've compared all of them, and I don't get flashed on the highway. Only issue are those fuse holders. Just bypass them if you know the wiring of your car. It's fairly straightforward. You can even get the haloes to light.
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Well, here goes. I suppose an introduction is due before diving into the oil and grime.
My name is Andrew, I'm nineteen and a community college student, saving funds to start an EE degree program at University of Texas at Austin. I own and drove a 1978 280z, orange with black stripe, and mixed history. I picked up this car through datsun trader, then found it for cheaper on eBay. Primarily interested in it for the lack of rust, I bought it and shipped it home, well aware engine longevity could be a problem. Then again, these engines were supposedly indestructible, or so I thought.
About two months ago I was driving back home from Springfield, MO, during a blizzard. High winds, bad aerodynamics, and poor traction had my eyes glued to the road, and I failed to keep my eye on the other gauges in my dashboard. Apparently a piece of road debris cut into my oil pan, and I didn't even notice it. Soon, that starved engine grinding noise came from my engine bay, and the car died as I clutched in. Long story short, it took several friends, two tows, and about $270 to get my car home. Then came the decision of finding another stock NA block or going turbo. I would have preferred to find a full turbo parts car, but after searching local listings on multiple sites, finding someone selling it cheap wasn't going to be a simple matter. Then, about five hours away, or $70 drive with my mother's Buick, I found a JDM turbo block ordered a good ten years ago sitting in someone's garage, paperwork and everything included. Picked it up for $150, stuffed it into the back seat, and buckled it in.
(Damn, that sucker was heavy, even with three guys trying to stuff it into my mother's car)After that was removing the old engine.
Fairly straightforward. Then drop the new one it. Too bad I didn't notice I was dropping it in with the motor mounts reversed. Took me a while to figure out why my transmission was tilted.
I went on a parts hunt, along with diving heavily into the torrent of information on here. It feels nice to say I actually understand how my car was put together now.
Basically, here's my parts list:
Stock turbo system
DIY'd MBC - not run yet
1st Gen DSM BOV - I actually welded this to the before-turbo intake pipe. I'm an idiot, I know. But I guess I'll leave it off until I find an IC to mount as well.
81 block, 82 harness/dizzy with 85 chopper wheel, 87 ecu, 85 MAF.
I have a new fuel pump, but not even Bosch can give me information regarding its flow rate, so that puts a stick in my installing it.
z31 ignition coil and power transistor
still running the original transmission, no problems with it. Redline mt-90 is the best stuff ever.
4.11 LSD R200 diffy
370cc ford brown top injectors
Most of the fun came in the wiring, where the original owner took a few glances at the wiring diagram, screamed "F*** this S***" and did his own thing. That was fun. Fried two coils before getting it right. I guess that means I should never assume anything. Ever. Not with this car. Well, I finished all the wiring, and after all is said and done...
So there's a few timing issues, and I failed to notice there was a plastic plug holding in my oil at the oil filter sandwich. Oil went everywhere. Yeah, not a single place in town could make fittings, (NAPA just opened, and Autozone and O'reilly were stumped. The plumbing shop couldn't help either) so I had to jury rig something with hydraulic lines, JB weld, teflon tape, and ultra black permatex.
That's a shot of how messy my shop is. I'm moving pretty quickly with this considering how much time I've had allotted for it. I just finished finals in college so this past week I finally got the engine running. I'll always appreciate a few comments. The main one is regarding installing the distributor shaft. I've heard to install it at 11:25 when at #1 TDC, but A, I had to find my own TDC with rope and a file, and B, I can't really find the picture in my FSM I downloaded. I'm fine with just a page number if you guys know which fsm has an install picture. I might be a bit off, so are there any tricks to optimizing timing without the marks?
My power goals are about 280 hp at the wheel. I figured it'd be a nice tribute to the nomenclature of the s30 I drive. Maybe in the future I'll go crazy (after I have my degree and a bit more of an idea what I'm doing) for super high horsepower numbers, but right now a hair under 300 hp is fine with me.
I'd like to thank awolfe for his wiring diagram. Saved my life. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/misc-s30/44992-somewhat-color-wiring-diagram-1978-280zs-enjoy.html
I'd like to thank afshin for his guide to adapting the ECU http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/26230-z31300zx-ecumaf-to-280zxt-swap-guide/
I'd like to thank Tony D, NismoPick, and Bleach for the information they've provided on multiple occasions, and for making me laugh through this otherwise strenuous research phase.
And I wish I could thank the rest of the OPs who created topics asking the same questions I had as I was doing this.
Where are the wiring diagrams for the z31? I've been unable to find them anywhere. Color would make my eyes less... Crossed, as I follow the pinouts for the efi system.
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I have already performed the block swap, set up the intake and all that, I'm just at the wiring phase now. I dropped in the Z31 ecu, changed the cas wheel, I'm using the z31 power transistor, but also have the GM HEI module I could swap in if needed. I'm realtively sure all of that is wired correctly, I've triple checked the wiring compared to others who have done it on these forums. Used to be I wasn't getting spark, but now the 12v switched line is shorted to ground and the ignition switch does absolutely nothing. Ignition switch was checked, it's functioning. I whipped out the multimeter and the short to ground went away after unplugging the igntion relay. Now I'm checking out the relay wiring to see where everything wires to, but according to the diagram mine is wired in wrong.
The part number is B5230-W0500, which I did some research on and turns out to be the 76z Ignition Relay, is that correct? I ran 12v to the switching wires to test for connection, but when the switching wires are connected, the switched connection only makes my multimeter beep momentarily to state a connection was made only briefly. I'm suspecting dead ignition relays. They still click, but aren't they supposed to carry voltage over their switching terminals? As I head to the parts store to find some other relays to try out, I wanted to compare the wiring.
According to the FSM and the color wiring diagram awolfe made at CZCC, this is what the ignition relay wires into
Which, as you can see, if the wiring diagram is right, seems very counterintuitive. It would mean the fusebox has a constant 12v feed from the relay, so why would it even be controlled by a relay? Also, the ignition line seems to not be connected at all, so that makes me wonder why it goes there.
This is how the PO wired mine up
Yet, it used to work. Now it doesn't.
And it makes me scratch my head as to why I'm not even getting the seatbelt warning lamps or the radio to come on when I stick the key in, because I'm getting 12v from the W/r constant line on the switch. By the way, my car is a 1978 Z, with what appears to be the 1978 FI setup, but I might be wrong.
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So I noticed an easy way to tell what orientation your chopper wheel is when you do the 300zx ecu swap. Notice the attached picture, how there is a circle punched in by the top piece? It competes the notched out space in the CAS, that indicates the top. The bottom doesn't have anything that could punch out a circle. Just a thought. (Yes, I know the pictured chopper wheel is a 280zx wheel, I just installed mine)
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Bought, search ended. Thanks.
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I didn't get a PM.
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I'm in a bit of a rush for the last bits of my turbo swap, and I'm looking for an exhaust manifold. I think the guy who was going to sell his bailed. I'm hoping to pay around $100 + shipping. If anyone has one up for grabs, I'll take it.
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This all sounds like it's going to destroy my drive shaft... Alright, I'll give it a whack, pun intended.
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Does the drive shaft just drop or is there a spindle inside it that goes to the diff? I couldn't really tell from the illustrations.
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In the meantime some ShoeGoo will seal it up if you want to see if it helps resolve the problem at all. Coat the inside if you can reach it, fill the hold with some TP, cover the outside with a bit more ShoeGoo. I've repaired several vacuum leaks like that.
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1978 2+2 280z, pulling the driveshaft off to drop the transmission. I got the bolts off (found out my sway bar mount was broken that way too... :/). According to the manuals I'm supposed to pull the driveshaft forward towards the transmission to remove it from the diff side, but it won't move. I don't want to upset the balance by whacking it with a hammer, what else could I do to break it free?
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Bought. Please close.
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Ready for my turbo swap. I'm antsy, sorry guys. I need the fuel injection and ignition harness from an 82 preferably. If it's not the 82 I'm sure I can make do depending on the condition.
Anyone have any for sale?
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Sorry, forgot to mention I'm in north Arkansas.
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I'm in pursuit of either a wrecked 280zxt with a complete drive and powertrain, or an old rusted zxt of the same condition. Essentially, the engine and transmission need to work along with the turbo components. And hopefully the computer. Just seeing what people have.
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So how do you tell when it's properly adjusted? With so many options of adjustment, where can you feel confident in the lash setting?
I'm sorry if I sound absurdly unaware, I just want to clear up my understanding of this piece of the engine.
(Damn, that sucker was heavy, even with three guys trying to stuff it into my mother's car)
Fairly straightforward. Then drop the new one it. 
What Wires
in Interior
Posted
Ignition is black/White striped, headlights are red wires. The plugs have a marking on them where the lamps plug in. Drive is hi beam, pass is low beam. Ground is ground.