Xnke

WHOA....Lots of misinformation here. First, the Turbo Cam CAN NOT go in anything but a TURBO head. The cam geometry is radically different, and you will wipe out a cam very very fast. The EXCEPTION is if your "turbo cam" comes from a P90 head that has solid lifters in it to start with. This was discussed in a recent thread, and has to do with the cam lift ramps (how fast the cam lifts the valve) needing to be much steeper to keep the hydraulic lifters happy. Second, The MN47 head is exactly the same thickness and dimensions as every other L6 head, excluding the LD28 diesel head. It will not hit the hood. Third, the L28ET pistons have a 10.9cc dish. The MN47 head is a 39.5cc head. On a STOCK F54 turbo block, i.e., one with the dished turbo pistons, using the MN47 in place of the stock P90 will result in a 8.8:1 compression ratio. The stock configuration is 7.4:1. On a FLAT TOP motor, the compression ratio with the MN47 head will be 10.75:1, all of this is calculated with a stock Nissan head gasket. With a Fel-pro gasket, the compression jumps to a hair over 11:1. (with the dished pistons, and the fel-pro gasket, the CR is 9:1) As far as using the N42 head, the F54 dished piston turbo block, and a cam that is cut for solid lifters, your compression ratio will be 8.4:1. This is boostable, and with good fuel management, i.e., NOT the stock computer, it's cake, if others on this board are to be believed. You Might be able to do it on a stock computer, I don't know. If your F54 block has flat top pistons, the N42 head will put you at 10:1 compression, back in the danger zone...

it's the same as any other 6 cylinder L- series, so if you have an S30 or S130, you can measure it pretty easy. If not, you can look in the Factory Service manual, or haynes manual. Not sure if the Chiltons has it or not.

Josh, why are both of your oil pick up bosses drilled? that's not an LD28 block is it?

In fact, a pressure washer can warp your body panels. on top of that, anything you rent will not likely strip the paint off the car. I'd go with the Aircraft Stripper + pressure washer method, it works pretty good. Properly applied and selected rattle can primer is exactly the same as any other acrylic lacquer or acrylic enamel, and put on properly will not rust. Does this mean you can primer a car and then drive it for months and not get rust? No, it means that the car, primed, sitting in a dry shop, won't rust.

Also, even if it is not really toxic, Zinc Fume Fever sucks. it's way worse than the flu, lemme tell ya. Also, it CAN kill you, although it is not common nor easy to off yourself with zinc fumes. we're talking 2hr+ of a thick white fog of Zinc fumes... Know what you are welding, and know what it can do to you. Best way to be safe about it.

Those chambers have not been unshrouded completely...look at the casting ridge around the intake valve seat. Everything i've been able to find on Hybrid, every L6 head porting post by 1FastZ, Braap, jmortenson, Johnc, all of them, says that that is one of the first things that needs to go. Maybe I'm wrong? Chamber looks to have been beadblasted, but i don't see anything really unusual; care to let us in on what we are to notice? (I've been staring at pictures of P90 heads for three hours now trying to figure it out...)

Like i was saying earlier, what about the CA20DET? I think one in a 320 pickup would be just awesome. actually, any of the 4-cylinder based early datsuns would be nice with a CA or KA engine, i think.

Sure, EDIS and Megajolt Light jr. would do the trick nicely, I'd think. I'm going that route with my SU-carbed L30.

I have seriously considered putting a CA20(DET) (the 2.0's only came single cam, as far as I know, so i'd be using the 1.8L's head) into a 510, if not that, then a KA24DE(T). I'd imagine that the CA frankenmotor would do much better, especially if the CA18's crank girdle would fit. (i guess the RB20, 25, and 30 motors don't share the RB26's crank girdle, because the CA20 doesn't have one, but the CA18DET does) Would i be wrong to assume such?

How about the CA18DET head on the CA20E bottom end? CA20E engines are plentiful around me, anyway. That puts you back in the realm of the SR20, displacement wise, and with a "better" valve train design.

Looking for a set of N42 or N47 intake valves in good shape. New, Used in runnable condition, or suggestions on where to get them are all welcome. PM with info.

Nobody here said "don't do it:". Just get the book, there is so much valuable information in there, it's idiotic to not have it. if I didn't have it, I would probably never have attempted the rebuild.

You need to search around here. Get the Book. Book: How to Rebuild your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine by Tom Monroe How to Modify your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine by Frank Honsewitze Get them in that order, and you'll have everything you need to know. If the crank is not scored, then follow the directions in the book for polishing the journals and figureing the bearing sizes.

If a dished piston is ok, get some ITM part number RY-6116-std. 87mm piston, 9.32cc dish, 35.5mm pin height. you'll need a set and a half, as these are for the Z22S four cylinder. I am using this part in 1mm oversize, and have zero deck height. If you need a flat top piston, though, i dunno.

If you feel like spending a day up in bowling green, I can do it with just the sheet metal. I did mine in 18G, and they are plenty stiff, but like others have said, you'll need new underfloor rails too. It's a 6+ hour job just to form the sheets and get them fitted, not including the welding. PM me and we can discuss it.

nah, just cut the front 3" off the auto tranny bell and ship the cut off part to me. Run In stand, anyone?

And a square port header will work just fine on a round port head. It's been said and demonstrated many, many times.

Yeah, I know, won't fit. Yet. Here's the deal: I like my Nissan "Iron Cross" 14" wheels. I'm actually looking for an extra to use as the spare. I work on (can't drive it yet...) a '72 240Z. I'm using the S12+8 solid rotor brakes up front, and will likely be using the '89 240SX rear disks with 240SX rear brake calipers. So far, the radius of the inside of the wheel is 6.75". fudge a bit for clearance, and call it 6.5". So, the brake rotor + caliper must have a total radius of 6.5" or less, at the part of the caliper that is farthest from the spindle axis. Now, the mounting face for the bracket is 46mm from the mounting face for the disk. (where the drum used to mount, sandwiched by the wheel) So now we know that from the disk mounting face, we need a 46mm or lso rotor height. (from back side of the friction face, to the back side of the mounting face, needs to be ~46mm.) the 200SX and 240SX rotors will fit the bill in this department at 46.5mm, and have a 5.06" radius, leaving 1.4" of room for the calipers to fit over the disk and under the wheel. I'll be making a trip to the JY tomarrow to pick up a set of mock-up rear brake rotors and pads (with the silly clips on them this time...ugh) and will update this thread with the progress.

halfway done with the bay....

Well, after a long search and several failed attemps, I located some inexpensive S30 steering rack boots. AutoZone part number 03670 is a universal replacement boot, but is identical to the old part number UF2020. After removing the first large side ring, (these are a cut-to-fit type) these boots fit on very well, although you will need two zip-ties for the steering-rack side to keep them on. The hardest part is dealing with all the steering rack grease...after getting the rack clean, the boots went on smooth as silk, and fit securely. (With the zip ties on the rack side, that is. It may just have been me being stupid, as the directions say not to cut the large side of the boot, but I don't know how you'd get them on otherwise.) Regrease the rack, and waaaa-laa! new rack boots that you didn't pay 100+$ for from the Nissan parts desk, or 65+$ from most other parts stores. (including AutoZone, the S30 parts listing was 32$ per side) This universal fit boot was a whopping $9.99.

examine that relay closely, and determine the pin connections. Then you can use any relay, or even two relays, as that one seems to be.

Switched to pure argon gas today, made a HUGE difference in the little toy welder. It actually works like a MIG welder is supposed to work now, with CO2 it would sputter and spit, very little penetration, always welding on max heat. Now, I'm in the middle of the range, and have plenty of heat to weld in my new underfloor frame rails and subframe additions, as well as my new hand-formed 18G sheet steel floors. Engine bay is all but ready, and the EDIS conversion parts have been acquired, mounts made, and installed on the engine. Just gotta mount the coil pack, and the EDIS module.

If you really don't want to upsize the valves, at least do the exhaust valve. you do not have to replace the seat to go with the bigger exhaust valve, but you should get the bronze intake seats replaced anyway. Might as well go with the bigger valves. By the way, L series valves are only about 7-8$ each new, from many suppliers. Or get a set from an N42 or N47 and use those.

Does anyone know who makes or made this header? There are no markings, and i know that OTM, back when he was on this board, had the same header. Both my header and his were found an L26, the primary tube diameter is 1.5", the secondary tube diameter is 2", and my collector will merge the 2" sections together into a 2.5" exhaust.

the extra duration of the C stamp cam is traded off for lower valve lift than the other cams, the A stamp cam has the higher valve lift, but 248* duration. C stamp: 256* duration, but only 9.X mm valve lift A stamp: 248* duration, but 10.5mm valve lift.