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Xnke

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Xnke last won the day on March 19 2016

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About Xnke

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  • Birthday 12/27/1987

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  1. For a reliable streeter, I would start by using a long chucking reamer ream both bushings in the carb body at the same time, or if I couldn't get a reamer long enough, I would user some aluminum foil wrapped around the shank of the reamer, slip it through the "near" side bushing, with foil wrapped to make it a snug fit, and then ream the "far" side bushing. Then, turn the carb body end for end and do the same thing. This will help keep the reamer aligned in the bushings, but it likely won't be perfect. Ream the bushings to clean up, then hard chrome plate the shafts. If you have to go mo
  2. At some point, they all are worth something to someone. Get in contact with the SCCA ITS guys or rebello and ask if they need/want any cores. The L24 block may be required for some racing classes...but that doesn't automatically make it valuable, just means someone may need it...and they are only getting rarer.
  3. That's an easy fix, too. Keep the head on the shelf, if you just wanna bolt it back on again later use Maxal 4943 TIG rod to do the repair with. Grind out at least 1/8" past the damage, grind the crack all the way out, then just layer in the 4943 till you're a little proud of what you need, and re-machine. No heat treat required afterward, as long as you keep the casting temp under 300F. Localized heating will be unavoidable but the 4943 rod does not need a heat treat to maintain the strength, and if you DO heat treat it it reacts very close to A356, but untreated the initial hardness is
  4. Not really. Best way to tell is bolt them on the car, and hit the throttle shafts with a little carb cleaner, just like checking for a traditional vacuum leak. The way I do it is just wiggle the shaft like you said-you should feel barely a perceptable movement-any play in them will introduce an air leak, but it's up to you to decide how worn is worn. For your needs, (SCCA ITS?) you're gonna want to either polish the shaft and have it plated back up to slightly oversize, and then just ream the bushings, or fit new bushings and turn the shaft down slightly. (Not enough to get you caught, a
  5. If you are looking for port work, plan on 2000$ for a quality job. Last I called Dave Rebello, he quoted 600 bucks for porting ONLY, no rebuild, no surfacing, no valve job, no parts. I don't know if that still stands or not.
  6. Or you could, you know, look at successful L28ET powered racing cars (real, actual racing cars) and see what they've done and at what power level, and what level of competition. 1000+HP L28ET's were run in IMSA racing, even if they did "turn them down" to 700HP for the races. Look at those. You don't need forged pistons. You don't need *any* internal engine upgrades, persay-but rod bolts are a good idea. You don't need a ported head, or a cam, or even a new turbo or injectors for 200RWHP. You Don't need an aftermarket aluminum radiator-the stock ZX radiator cools better, in m
  7. In fact, the 280ZXT was sold without an oil cooler. Many of them, actually. In the US, ONLY the automatic transmission cars got them. You can safely push 250HP on the stock injectors. I'd prefer not to, but it's been done that way for literally decades. On the stock computer, even! Is it the best route? Nope. Would I recommend it? Nope. Stock turbo will stop making power at 17PSI. Stock injectors will stop making power at about 16PSI. At 14lbs, with a stock cam and head, even with the best aftermarket computer out there you'll struggle to make 250HP at the wheels-but you
  8. You can't wire the "L" directly to the switched voltage-You MUST use a resistor or an incandescent lamp. Not doing this creates exactly the problem you have. Same with GM alternators, and Chrysler as well. Some regulators can handle this, but none were really designed to-so you get an unpredictable problem. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. You're not helping things with the "no key" feature either-backfeeding the alternator is REALLY hard on the regulator.
  9. What are you wanting done? Can't make a recommendation without knowing your goals.
  10. Call Kelford for the cams. You're MUCH closer to MUCH MUCH hotter L-series engines than we are, right now in my opinion the hottest L-series engines are being built in NZ and AU. Especially the L-4's... . Yes, that is a roller cam, roller follower 2.0L L20B making in excess of 220HP...
  11. Yeah, that fastener was cracked pretty deeply for a long time prior to the break-the steel being used is NOT adequate for the job. I'll bet it's 4140, and hardened up to about 40RC, which puts it into a brittle temper zone. Should be down to 34-36RC and my god, the threads...they're single-point cut but you can see where it's been cut with a manual threading lathe, and the safety net cut wasn't made deep enough. The threading tool was ground from a HSS toolbit, but the root radius wasn't cut large enough for this kind of loading. Also the shank of the fastener here, where you can see the
  12. The turbo manifold IS stock...Or just swap the whole stock turbo engine. You're making it hard on yourself here, you'd be well within the rules. for 1500$ you could buy two complete turbo swap donor cars in some places!
  13. Assuming my patterns aren't all warped and cracked from being in storage, I'll send 'em down to you, Derek. I just have to find them, and finish the core boxes first!
  14. Ditch the 3800 and go with the 3500V6, it makes the same power as a stock 3800SC, with NO boost. 2004-2006 malibu/impala, dirt cheap. Lighter, stronger, smaller, better cylinder heads, and if you just need blower whine: SixShooter here has one in his Z, plus a GT3582R IIRC, and it scoots. I'm putting the one above into my pickup truck in a few weeks.
  15. The reason isn't for any kind of combustion advantage, it's only to make it so the valves don't open up directly into the cylinder wall. Once you bore the block, it's a non-issue so he moved it back over onto the dowel pins. Bolt a head onto a block and look up through the bore while you move the valves, and you'll see that as the valve opens, it approaches the bore wall and thus shrouds the valve curtain area the further you open the valve.
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