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sac_Z's Achievements


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  1. So I'm going to find a tap the size of the ID of the inlet port, thread it, then screw in an npt allen plug. Thank you LanceVance, dexter72, and beermanpete for your input!
  2. I agree that that method would be for short-term, but I don't want to do that.
  3. dexter72, I'm not sure if I'm understanding you correctly. Are you saying cut off the hose a few inches from the inlet port, put a pipe plug at the end of the hose, and then seal both ends with hose clamps? If that's so, I might just do that. Have you tried that? Has anyone used that method and run into any problems? I'd imagine the plug accidentally getting sucked in by the pump, or water leaking from the hose where the plug is clamped. But then if I use a big-enough plug, it couldn't go through the smaller orifice if it were to come loose. However, I like the idea of having it tapped and plugged. It would be sturdier. edit: sturdier
  4. Right. But I seem to have a thread-less inlet branching off the main radiator outlet at the front cover. My question is how to plug that one, since it has no threads.
  5. **UPDATE** I have a 280ZX I'm not using, so I pulled its coolant inlet port off and installed it on the 240Z. I've learned that the later L-series engines have a threaded inlet port. I've plugged it with a 1/2" pipe plug and installed the Lower Radiator hose. Note: If you choose to do what I did, the lower radiator inlet port from my '81 280ZX is slightly pointed more engine-side than the original 240Z port. So watch out for the lower radiator hose touching your alternator. What I did to fix this problem was to twist the lower radiator hose at the bottom of the radiator to clear the alternator. Well, it doesn't completely clear the alternator, but as long as it's not touching the fan blades, I'm fine with that. ** I've completed plugging my cooling system. Thanks, HybridZ. Your input was very helpful. ** Hi Hybridz. First off, I'd like to mention that I removed my heater core. So no coolant flows through the interior. I'm trying to bypass that and apparently there are two popular alternatives to that: "looping" or plugging. I'm convinced that plugging the cylinder head outlet is the most logical way to go, since all that looping does is move cold water from around the left side of the block/cylinder head and back into the water pump inlet. Since I've deleted the heater core, the cylinder head coolant outlet is no longer necessary. Also, my engine is stock. I found a popular thread pertaining to cooling on L-series motors for racing purposes, but I feel that for stock motors that advice doesn't apply. With that said, I'm having a tough time searching on hybridz advice on how others deleted flow to the second inlet. Maybe it's so easy to do, that it goes without saying, but I'd like to know what people who have plugged their systems have done in order to delete their loop. This is what I'm going to do: Thermostat housing => intake manifold plug Intake manifold plugs (front and rear) Cylinder head coolant outlet plug by the #6 cylinder And here is where I'm stuck. The water pump inlet is branched into two, one for the lower radiator hose and one for the heater core hose. Should I tap the second one and then plug it with an npt plug?
  6. This is likely the case. Thank you so much.
  7. Hi Hybrid Z I bought an L24 E88 a while ago and I don't know what kind of compression ratio it should have. This block was taken apart and refurbished (it has assembly lube on the cam). l24's all had flat tops on them, but looking through the spark plug holes, this one has dished pistons. Asked the seller what has been done to it and he has no idea. I do not want want to take the cylinder head off, either since it's pretty much new. So I'm asking if anybody would know what could have been done with it. Has it been bored to 2800cc to accommodate the later l28 dished pistons? I wonder if it was built to be a turbo block. Maybe somebody has run into this kind of setup? Thanks
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