Pete Sprenger

I don't know of any 3.35 Rebellos, but Les Collins racing offers a 3.4L L-motor. search for Green Hornet 240Z on youtube. That is a very fast car!

I just realized that the carbon fiber strut bar is just an aluminum bar rapped in CF, so that is out, but my question about CF hoods and hatches still stands. I searched for this topic, but didn't find anything, so if there is already a good thread, I would appreciate the link.

I need a new strut tower brace and I was going to get the Cusco bar from MSA (#23-4201C) but while I was on the MSA web site, I saw that they have a carbon fiber brace as well (#23-4238). My primary concern is the functionality of stiffening the chassis, but I would like to save weight if possible as well. The web site says that it is a functional piece, but would it be as stiff as the Cusco piece? I am also looking for a carbon fiber hood and rear hatch. I want to retain the stock glass and release button in the rear hatch, but I could install hood pins if need be for the hood. Does anyone know of a reputable company that has quality parts? Pete Sprenger 1972 240Z 3.2L Rebello with TWM fuel injection

That is awesome! I want to go for a ride!

Have you tried adding fuel above 4000?

Wow, that did not post the way I formatted it. Let me know if you can't make heads or tails of it and I will try again. Let me know if you want any of my other values. Keep in mind that my engine doesn't have a MAP sensor. I have to tune it with only RPM FUEL and THROTTLE POSITION, which s a pain!!!

Here is the timing curve I got from Rebello. It is conservative, not a set of race values. My guess is that your timing isn't advanced enough above 4000. Let me know. Also check to make sure your Fuel Cut setting is set for 6,000. RPM. DEGREES 500-1000. 10 1250. 12 1500. 15 1750. 18 2000. 22 2250. 24 2500. 25 2750-4500. 27 4750-5000. 28 5250-5500. 29 5750-9750. 30

I know some spark plug wire brands can cause interference with the SDS system. The brands are listed in the manual. I can look them up later today if you don't have the manual. I think it is more likely that your timing values are off. I'll post the values that Dave Rebello gave me later today. I have to go have brunch with the family right now.

Oh man! I'm excited to hear how it goes!

Wow! That is one good looking intake! I can't wait to see how thatching runs!

I missed that. I also agree. JB Weld on the inside of any engine isn't a great idea, but definitely not on a Datsun L engine. These things have so much vibration that it is guaranteed to vibrate loose eventually. The best solution would be to find someone who can weld aluminum to fill it in for you. It shouldn't cost much and will be a permanent fix.

JB Weld on the inside of the intake? Where do you see that?

Wow, that intake looks great! I really like how you modified the 240SX throttle body so that it looks more simple. I have a tap & die set that you can use if you want to thread that shaft farther and eliminate the extra washers. You are making great progress! Pete

Nicely done!your car is going to run like a champ when you are done! I have to pull the head on mine and send it to Rebello. Two of my valves keep getting way out of adjustmen and he wants to check it out. The great ting about doing your own wiring, as you are doing, is that it will make it easier to work on in the future. I had Duane do all the wiring on my car, and now I am a bit intimidated to pull the head since I have no idea what is going on in there. Pete

Oh, by the way, you can drain the block of coolant by removing the plug on the driver's side if the block. It looks like a big bolt sticking out of the side of the block, back by the transmission. Then you won't have to worry about coolant leaking when you remove parts.