[Who's LS1 280Z is on Jalopnik's...]

this is now the 5th forum that's seen and posted a link to this post. Kinda funny but TONS of exposure.

 

Initial price was put to keep the lowballers away.

 

I'm hoping to get $20k in the end. I've had an offer at $16k which I countered with $20k so we'll see if it flies or not.

 

Thanks for the post guys

[Alignment Settings]

Most machines have a button to switch from degrees to inches. I worked with a Hunter machine for over a year before I hit it on accident...

I'll have to mention that to him, I'm 95% sure he's using a new Hunter also. I'll see what he says.

[Alignment Settings]

Old post - I sent my Z to the alignment shop today to get it dialed in for street duty and used the above settings (225 wide tires) and my guy said his machine is in degree's so that was his comment. Otherwise he was happy to have something to go for other than stock. A thank you is in order, thank you.

I can't wait to get the car back.

[Arizona Z Billet Brace Kit -- Sway Bar Types]

betamotorsports sells the rear mounted sway bar

[Interiors have to sound good too...]

Completed pics of the audio from today - still dusty but hey its in !

Door panels - even added power windows- no cranks!

Focal 165 mids and TN52 tweets

 

Interior shot.

Recaro's, door panel, center panel all wrapped in same leather. Autometer gauges, shift light, kenwood deck, short shifter for T56, Hurst 6spd ball

From the hatch:

 

3 13kv.2 Elemental Designs subs, wired to 2.66ohm off the sub channel of the Elemental Designs nine.5 amp (5channel)

[LS1 240z Suspension setups?]

I had standard lowering springs and KYB struts (nothing fancy), larger front sway bar and no rear sway bar.

[Interiors have to sound good too...]

I'm not a fan of big loud sound systems but you did a Great Job. The interior looks very nice.

Thanks. Its more for shows and just enjoying some tunes for the wife and I. I'm definitely past the boomin' stereo's stage in life

[Fuel cell or modded tank, and what's a good budget?]

why do u suggest a surge tank not a sump? is it due to keeping the stock fuel pump?

What would you recommend for a swapped car (v8) with aftermarket pump (aeromotive A1000 for instance )

[Interiors have to sound good too...]

Parhaps I missed a build thread, but what are you doing/have you done about sound insulation? I'm interested to know about exhaust muffling as well.

That was one of the first things I did with the car a few years ago.

I did eDead sound deadener throughout the car (just not on the firewall which I intend to do before spring.

I have it on the doors, floor, spare tire well already. Marginal difference for me, but the straight through exhuast and now cutout don't help much, lol.

 

Pics:

[Interiors have to sound good too...]

Well I know my car is fast so that aspect has been taken care of. 11's on street tires is good enough for me (for now).

My interior looked nice before, have Recaro seats, custom door panels, autometer gauges etc..

 

I had Focal speakers in the door panels which never sounded quite right for being an awesome set of components, needless to say I was disappointed.

 

This winter I decided to tear the stereo down and try again. I was after something that sounded awesome and looked the part also. I do take the car to shows and such and my stereo was definitely my weakspot for competitions and such.

 

So I pulled out my old Pioneer deck, replaced it with a new Kenwood Excelon deck. USB, iPod compatible. Cool stuff.

Pulled old RCA's out, replaced front and sub RCA's with Audison interconnects. Nice wires, easy connectors with 90* fittings which keep the wires a little nicer. Small touches make me smile.

 

Pulled out the 4awg power wire, my two amps. Ran new 0 awg wire and a new 5 channel amplifier. No distro block, just wire straight into the amp, big ground wire too. Bridged the 4 speaker channels to power the front speakers, 350w RMS per side to the focal components.

 

I didn't have a sub set up in the car before that was worth anything so we started from scratch. For shows I decided to go with 3 12" subs, invert mounted firing into the spare tire well. All 4ohm DVC's so they run at 2.66 ohm to the sub channel of the 5 channel amp. About 500w give or take to the 3 subs. I made the sub panel at home with my wife and she wrapped it in leather which was left over from the seats and door panels. Looks nice.

 

So now all said and done this things ROCKS. Its not a be loud bass machine like a lot of cars out there but its setup to sound good and to be able to enjoy music which is what I'm about when it comes to my stereo's etc. From my short demo in the garage with a wide variety of music I'm very happy with the sound quality so far. I cant wait to get some more "musical" music in the car to see how it reacts but my wife's Grey's Anatomy CD sounded pretty good all in all.

 

I don't have completed pics yet but here's some pics nevertheless:

 

Subs inplace, not wired - crappy phone pic

 

Interior shot from the summer. Door panels, seats and speakers:

 

Pic with old deck installed:

 

No pics of the new amp or the wiring yet. Will try to get some shortly once I get it all sorted out.

[280Z Shocks]

I've got a set of MSA sport springs and KYB struts/shocks that I took off my 280z this past spring that I'd be interested in selling.

$150+shipping if you are interested.

[adding some neg camber to back end]

That is where I saw them online....

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-4171

Offset control arm bushings allow suspension adjustments not possible with stock components. This kit should be considered mandatory with wider wheels and tires. Machined from high-grade aluminum and delrin. Sold as a pair. Your car must be aligned after installation of these components. For adjustment, use the camber wrench (23-4174) shown in Related Items below.

 

[adding some neg camber to back end]

Hey all

 

I'm looking to add a little negative camber to the back end this spring when I get the car re-aligned in hopes that it *may* help clear my tire from rubbing that last little bit.

Anyway I don't forsee wanting to do the weld-in camber plates since its not a race car, I had read a little about camber bushings on here but it only really mentions front ones where I'm looking at the rear, is it safe to assume that I'll only get a degree or so max out of the rear camber bushings like it says about the front camber bushings (in one of the stickies)?

Thoughts?

[WTB: 280z lowering springs]

i have a set of msa lowering springs (as well as KYB struts/shocks) i removed from my '76 280z.

$150 + shipping for springs and struts/shocks.

[280Z stock fuel tank with LS-1 for dummies]

I have a stock LS1 fuel rail with a -6AN fitting welded onto it instead of the GM quick connect fitting. I am changing my fuel set up to fuel rails. If you are interested you can buy the fuel rail that I'm removing from the car... if interested PM me.

 

Fuel pump I'm running is the Aeromotive A1000 (overkill by many ppl standards, loud too, but it works). I'm running new braided lines (feed and return) with all -AN fittings and bypassed ALL stock lines. I mounted my regulator by the fusable links in the engine bay, I'm using this: http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-page/regulators/efi-regulators/13101-a1000-injected-bypass-regulator/ regulator (aeromotive). I am running an Aeromotive 10micron (i think 10 micron off hand) fuel filter inline as well.

 

So my setup is -10 line to pump, -8 line to regulator -6line to rail and a -6line return

 

in the attached pic you can see the regulator and fuel lines on the passanger side and the fuel line that is running across the intake manifold.

[How relevant is the JTR V8 book for Gen III/IV swaps?]

def worth the $20 in the grand scheme of things.

[Heat from LS1 in S30 engine bay]

Yup I notice the heat as well. I don't do anything about it though. I'm lazy and don't really care, lol.

[How large is the collector flange for JCI Headers?]

interesting. I've never seen those headers before... different how they extend so long after the 4 merge into 1; thats different than the JTR 1 7/8" primary into 3" collectors. Kinda cool but no flanges? or did you cut them off?

[How large is the collector flange for JCI Headers?]

Then it must be the JTR LS1 headers that are 3" collectors as I know the set I have the collectors are 3" and I took them down to 2.5" off the collectors and where they merge to one pipe I went 3" all the way back... Its kinda loud without a resonator and only a bullet style muffler, but now seems quiet since I have a cutout right after my Y

[Which Tilton 7/8 master clutch ?]

Looking back in my notes I believe the MC I used was #75-875U. I am using it with the original LS1 clutch and it seems to work fine.

 

I'm no expert but both those parts have the same bore and stroke so the amount of fluid displaced in the end should be the same. I think you could use either one...

I recognize the 75-875u PN as well.

[Cammed LS1 guys, need advice]

that's just a lil guy! I run a Vengeance VRX4 in my Camaro. 228/230 .598/.592 on a 112, and it's awesome! I am considering pulling it out and going bigger. It's been said time and time again, but drivability comes from a good tune.

I'm looking to go to something in that size as I'm running a 224/224 .567" on 114+4 right now... if you pull that out let me know as I might be interested in it.

[Need help getting auto meter fuel lever to work]

link to said programmable gauge? and will it be compatible with the stock Z sender?

[17" Rota Rb or RB-R's]

I'm looking for a set of the 17x9 and 17x9.5 Rota wheels with or without tires.

I'm in Canada, so if you won't ship (or don't live within a 'reasonable' drive from the boarder to Ontario) I guess I'm SOL.

 

Let me know what you have

 

jason

[broken hardline = no brakes!]

So yesterday I finally got my fuel pump rewired from a previous issues so I went for a little drive to my office to make sure all is well as my wife was going to take the car to the Z-Fest car show next weekend.

 

Well I thought the brakes felt a little soft when I was on the highway but I hadn't drive it in a while so I didn't think much of it. I came to a stop after the off-ramp from thee highway and I pumped the brake to keep pressure as I was on an incline. I stopped for a coffee shortly before going to my office and met a friend. Hour later hop in the car and put my foot on the brake and go to start the car. Foot hit the floor. WTF. Pump the peddle, no pressure building. WTF.

 

Popped the hood, saw the close resivoire was empty and looked for a leak. Found a puddle by the passanger tire. Poopy.

My friend came by with a jack and we looked to see if we could find the leak and we did, looks like the hardline by the passanger header (JTR headers on LS1 swap). What a total PITA spot, murphy's law. We filled the resivior and I limped the car back home and in the garage.

 

I'm thinking of running a new hardline but instead of trying to get it back into the stock location I'd run it around the front instead as I have no idea how I will get it as it was stock due to the swap and such. Are there any negatives to running the line in a non-stock location as long as its away from moving parts?

[magnacharger from GM truck...]

I didn't buy the blower in the end. Just too many things weren't making sense from the seller; he had it insalled on an LS2 and said it bolted on fine, then when I asked about the accessories he said he changed them for the truck ones but "forgot" to mention that... He was asking about $2300cdn obo + shipping.