janaka

this is now the 5th forum that's seen and posted a link to this post. Kinda funny but TONS of exposure. Initial price was put to keep the lowballers away. I'm hoping to get $20k in the end. I've had an offer at $16k which I countered with $20k so we'll see if it flies or not. Thanks for the post guys

I'll have to mention that to him, I'm 95% sure he's using a new Hunter also. I'll see what he says.

Old post - I sent my Z to the alignment shop today to get it dialed in for street duty and used the above settings (225 wide tires) and my guy said his machine is in degree's so that was his comment. Otherwise he was happy to have something to go for other than stock. A thank you is in order, thank you. I can't wait to get the car back.

betamotorsports sells the rear mounted sway bar

Completed pics of the audio from today - still dusty but hey its in ! Door panels - even added power windows- no cranks! Focal 165 mids and TN52 tweets Interior shot. Recaro's, door panel, center panel all wrapped in same leather. Autometer gauges, shift light, kenwood deck, short shifter for T56, Hurst 6spd ball From the hatch: 3 13kv.2 Elemental Designs subs, wired to 2.66ohm off the sub channel of the Elemental Designs nine.5 amp (5channel)

I had standard lowering springs and KYB struts (nothing fancy), larger front sway bar and no rear sway bar.

Thanks. Its more for shows and just enjoying some tunes for the wife and I. I'm definitely past the boomin' stereo's stage in life

why do u suggest a surge tank not a sump? is it due to keeping the stock fuel pump? What would you recommend for a swapped car (v8) with aftermarket pump (aeromotive A1000 for instance )

That was one of the first things I did with the car a few years ago. I did eDead sound deadener throughout the car (just not on the firewall which I intend to do before spring. I have it on the doors, floor, spare tire well already. Marginal difference for me, but the straight through exhuast and now cutout don't help much, lol. Pics:

Well I know my car is fast so that aspect has been taken care of. 11's on street tires is good enough for me (for now). My interior looked nice before, have Recaro seats, custom door panels, autometer gauges etc.. I had Focal speakers in the door panels which never sounded quite right for being an awesome set of components, needless to say I was disappointed. This winter I decided to tear the stereo down and try again. I was after something that sounded awesome and looked the part also. I do take the car to shows and such and my stereo was definitely my weakspot for competitions and such. So I pulled out my old Pioneer deck, replaced it with a new Kenwood Excelon deck. USB, iPod compatible. Cool stuff. Pulled old RCA's out, replaced front and sub RCA's with Audison interconnects. Nice wires, easy connectors with 90* fittings which keep the wires a little nicer. Small touches make me smile. Pulled out the 4awg power wire, my two amps. Ran new 0 awg wire and a new 5 channel amplifier. No distro block, just wire straight into the amp, big ground wire too. Bridged the 4 speaker channels to power the front speakers, 350w RMS per side to the focal components. I didn't have a sub set up in the car before that was worth anything so we started from scratch. For shows I decided to go with 3 12" subs, invert mounted firing into the spare tire well. All 4ohm DVC's so they run at 2.66 ohm to the sub channel of the 5 channel amp. About 500w give or take to the 3 subs. I made the sub panel at home with my wife and she wrapped it in leather which was left over from the seats and door panels. Looks nice. So now all said and done this things ROCKS. Its not a be loud bass machine like a lot of cars out there but its setup to sound good and to be able to enjoy music which is what I'm about when it comes to my stereo's etc. From my short demo in the garage with a wide variety of music I'm very happy with the sound quality so far. I cant wait to get some more "musical" music in the car to see how it reacts but my wife's Grey's Anatomy CD sounded pretty good all in all. I don't have completed pics yet but here's some pics nevertheless: Subs inplace, not wired - crappy phone pic Interior shot from the summer. Door panels, seats and speakers: Pic with old deck installed: No pics of the new amp or the wiring yet. Will try to get some shortly once I get it all sorted out.

I've got a set of MSA sport springs and KYB struts/shocks that I took off my 280z this past spring that I'd be interested in selling. $150+shipping if you are interested.

That is where I saw them online.... http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-4171

Hey all I'm looking to add a little negative camber to the back end this spring when I get the car re-aligned in hopes that it *may* help clear my tire from rubbing that last little bit. Anyway I don't forsee wanting to do the weld-in camber plates since its not a race car, I had read a little about camber bushings on here but it only really mentions front ones where I'm looking at the rear, is it safe to assume that I'll only get a degree or so max out of the rear camber bushings like it says about the front camber bushings (in one of the stickies)? Thoughts?

i have a set of msa lowering springs (as well as KYB struts/shocks) i removed from my '76 280z. $150 + shipping for springs and struts/shocks.

I have a stock LS1 fuel rail with a -6AN fitting welded onto it instead of the GM quick connect fitting. I am changing my fuel set up to fuel rails. If you are interested you can buy the fuel rail that I'm removing from the car... if interested PM me. Fuel pump I'm running is the Aeromotive A1000 (overkill by many ppl standards, loud too, but it works). I'm running new braided lines (feed and return) with all -AN fittings and bypassed ALL stock lines. I mounted my regulator by the fusable links in the engine bay, I'm using this: http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-page/regulators/efi-regulators/13101-a1000-injected-bypass-regulator/ regulator (aeromotive). I am running an Aeromotive 10micron (i think 10 micron off hand) fuel filter inline as well. So my setup is -10 line to pump, -8 line to regulator -6line to rail and a -6line return in the attached pic you can see the regulator and fuel lines on the passanger side and the fuel line that is running across the intake manifold.

def worth the $20 in the grand scheme of things.

Yup I notice the heat as well. I don't do anything about it though. I'm lazy and don't really care, lol.

interesting. I've never seen those headers before... different how they extend so long after the 4 merge into 1; thats different than the JTR 1 7/8" primary into 3" collectors. Kinda cool but no flanges? or did you cut them off?

Then it must be the JTR LS1 headers that are 3" collectors as I know the set I have the collectors are 3" and I took them down to 2.5" off the collectors and where they merge to one pipe I went 3" all the way back... Its kinda loud without a resonator and only a bullet style muffler, but now seems quiet since I have a cutout right after my Y

I recognize the 75-875u PN as well.

I'm looking to go to something in that size as I'm running a 224/224 .567" on 114+4 right now... if you pull that out let me know as I might be interested in it.

link to said programmable gauge? and will it be compatible with the stock Z sender?

I'm looking for a set of the 17x9 and 17x9.5 Rota wheels with or without tires. I'm in Canada, so if you won't ship (or don't live within a 'reasonable' drive from the boarder to Ontario) I guess I'm SOL. Let me know what you have jason