Z8

I have a Stealth on mine. It was recommended by CNC Power Heads out of California. He stated that on a built engine it flowed better than the Performer RPM. This was based on their heads, which have oversized valves, ported and polished. I have no reference to the Performer-I took the head builders advice.

Thanks TomoHawk, I've seen prewired setups before. They typically run $50.00 or so. I bought a push button for $7.99 and a toggle switch for another $7.00. I think I have it figured out on the ignition side. The ignition toggle will provide juice to the button and the MSD module. I think I can rewire the factory headlight/wiper/washer switch and the turn signal/horn switch with the new wiring. The rest I'll put on switches and relays. If you see any smoke rising from Columbusthis weekend- it's me

Seperate circuits/switches may be the way I go, I have to fab a new dash center and console anyway. I also found some switches that would look great lined up. A battery disconnect is part of my "secruity system", it has a key thats removable only when the system is off. Thanks for your input.

A group buy sounds like a good idea, and we have local support! If this takes shape I have a parts list put together already.

I have thought of putting each circuit on its own switch, but that's alot of individual switches. I was hoping to hit one switch to put power to the starter, interior lights, wipers/washer pump, etc. Sort of like the factory combination switch that triggers the accessorys along with the starter. But I'm not confident enough to just run the wires and see if it works, I would hate to fry my new MSD, or the new starter or set fire to the new wiring or ??

A momentary switch wired between your ignition switch and starter would do the trick. My challenge is that I'm rewiring the whole car and not splicing into an existing harness. In my case I don't know what circuits I should wire to the toggle switch, if I get a few of 20 amp circuits on it should I do a relay? For that matter should I put a relay on the momentary switch? it will be conducting alot of juice to the starter. Hopefully someone will see this thread that has some experience.

A toggle ignition switch will put power to the starter button. Security will be a hidden switch that cuts power to the ignition toggle. Plus with locked doors and nothing labeled the casual thief will be detered. I also know that if someone is a pro and really wants to steal your car, there's nothing you can do about it. I don't know if all accessory lines should go to the toggle or if I need a relay, etc.

I am completely rewiring my 240. I have a American Autowire set up and the switches that came with it are butt ugly. I'd like to install a push button start with a toggle ignition switch, a search turned up some hits but the only wiring help was on splicing it into a Miata harness. Can anyone help me wire this up right? Thanks!

I found grit around the perimeter of the bearing, but it could have been deposited there as I withdrew the stub axle.

Thanks Pete, I see that the outer bearing has a seal incorporated. But I found alot of grit inside and wondered if it was missing one.

I don't see a seal in the shop manual or in the Motorsports catalog for a rear stub axle seal for the wheel side. There is one for the differental side, but not a "inner" and an "outer" seal. The ones I took apart did not have one, but also had alot of grit in the bearing area? Anyone take a rear stub axle out lately?

On the Porsche concept, a 944 turbo (internally known as a 951) is an outstanding high speed chassis. Renagade Hybrids make a adapter plate and mounts to bolt in a Chevy V8. I don't know about Ford engines, but if it can be done with the Chevy they can do it with the Ford.

'70 240- Engine dynoed at 393hp & 400 ftlbs. Installed and backed up by modified C4 with a rachet shifter. Full Ground Control suspn. set up with adjustable everything, 3pc. Revolution rims 9" & 9.5". Been running it but have it back up in the air getting a complete car rewire with all new gauges and Wilwood 12.2" rotor and 4 piston brake upgrade. Will be out hunting again in the spring.

Yahoo!, I know it feels good! Congrats!

In my opinion, and experience (for whatever that's worth) in "real world" conditions and outside of wide variations in specifications, the only significant difference is the 35 lbs. of weight. A good iron head can make great horsepower and hold a high compression same for a good aluminum head. There are differences of course, but an iron head that has been ported, flowed, good valve train, etc. will make all the HP you need. I've built engines both ways.