skib

I'd love another hoodie. My original was lost long ago.

Man, what a pain. I finally tracked down the culprit.... a bad connection at the ECU pin connector. If I wiggle the wires on the middle plug it will either rev and drive hard under boost like normal... or kill the car lol Anyone know how to unpin the connector wires? Iv unpinned plenty of plugs but these are extra small and proving to be a challenge to remove.

And here you can see what I mean with pushing open the AFM and how it revs right past the cut when you do. https://youtu.be/o3PcqGmu8Lk

Thats a good theory, and I just swapped over another FPR off a buddies running car to check mine and it still does the same thing. The thing that drives me nuts about it is it will fire and idle perfect, and I can drive it if Im easy on the throttle and keep it out of boost. But, the second it goes into atmospheric/positive pressure it cuts, even with the known good regulator on there. So far the only test that has made a note worthy difference is when you hit the cut and manually push the AFM door open farther tricking the system into feeding more fuel does it stop cutting and revs freely.

That's just my shitty phone, it fires right up and idles no problem even after not being touched all week. It doesn't even hit WOT or get close. Where it cuts is when its hitting atmospheric pressure (0 on the gauge) where the FPR should be adding more fuel being a 1:1 ratio. Its stopping dead at 38PSI where it should be able to hit at least 45PSI under full boost. And its running a re-manufactured AFM now with new harness plug, the physical AFM tests,changes where on the other one.

Yes..... Its all in the original post.... Iv built enough stuff that if all it needed was a tune up I wouldn't be posting.

https://youtu.be/7j99JI8qAGQ

The "flapper" inside of the air flow meter. By pushing it farther open Im telling the computer its getting more air than it is to get it to add more fuel, confirming my suspicion at the time its cutting out because of a lean condition. (I dont have a wideband yet) In the time preceding and during the issue starting nothing was changed. Everything functioned perfectly. TPS is good and tests correct per FSM test. Tested it with a reman AFM and brand new harness connector, no real difference. Fuel pressure tests show ~31psi at idle with vacuum plugged into FPR. Pressure and engine cut out at 0 on the boost gauge same as before with fuel pressure stopping dead at 38psi

Your probably right FricFrac, I got lucky and picked up a reman unit from a friend for a good deal. Should be here Wed. and we'll find out.

TPS tests perfectly.

Also called a center link or drag link Just from a quick search, you may find better stuff searching for a while under those names http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-rod-cross~48560-p7125.html The one orileys has is insane expensive. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search.oap?keyword=drag+link&year=1981&make=Nissan&model=280ZX&vi=1209338

Stock 82 turbo, has been a daily as long as Iv owned it and always runs great. Started cutting out and running progressively worse over the course of a few days. Fires up and idles perfectly, but wont really rev past 1500rpm. I can get it to go higher but its when the boost gauge hits 0 or positive pressure its cutting out, not getting enough fuel and will pop out the intake. The timing is set to 20deg on the dot, brand new CHTS, O2 sensor, plugs, cap, rotor, coil, fuel pump, AFM is cleaned and wiper arm set on fresh carbon, all my electrical plugs are either brand new or cleaned, I can hear all the injectors firing ect. Have done all the FSM EFI related tests and now Im starting to get stumped. Iv even tried moving the AFM gear rich 4 teeth as a test just to see what would happen... no change. (I normally hate touching that because it tends to just be a band aid fix for some other issue) When I have the air box off and rev it to where it starts to cut out and have a friend push the flapper open a little more with a screw driver it goes away and revs strong like it always has.... ... Really not sure what to look at next, Iv never had an issue like this with any of my L28et cars.

So the initial issue was an old battery, it worked but failed the load test and was driving the ECU mad. Today had an issue of it dying with no running issue, RPM just dropped to idle... and kept going to 0 lol. Plugs where soaked in fuel, put in some new plugs and a new CHTS and so far so good. The old man said he was driving it once a week but Im pretty sure it was just putting around the block so I have some other things to take car of like standard tune up and replacing some worn rubber bits. A lot of parts like that are are old and haven't been kept up with him not really driving it. Have another ECU on the way just to swap and comparable.

So I just picked up a super clean 82 ZXt from the original owner. It ran great all the way home on the freeway (~2 hours), but started to intermittently sputter, stall, puff black smoke, and wanted to die at anything under 2300RPM At first it would just do it a bit and then go away, but then it did it and died and took a while to restart. Gave the ECU a smack to see if there might be some bad/loose solder connection and it fired up again, ran perfect. Then drove it from my buddies back to my house and it ran great all the way home until the very end up started acting up a little but went away. Drive it this morning, make it about 8 miles and it dies at a stop and wont re start and have to have it towed back. When the car is having its fit and not wanting to re start there's spark at the plug wire and from the coil wire, and if you crank enough you can start to smell fuel. But when your cranking it just cranking no coughing or anything and then it will just start when it finally does. So I really don't know whats causing it to run terribly intermittently and making it not want to re start. When its not acting up it runs fantastic and boosts strong. Green light comes on for the ECU and the fuel pump comes on fine. Iv pulled the case off the ECU and don't see any damaged solder connections.

Does anyone know where I can get a pinout for a 94 Supra 2JZGE? Or a 2JZGE to 240z diagram?