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turbogrill

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About turbogrill

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    Austin, TX

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  1. Did you just buy it? Car looks nice, might be worth something.
  2. Can you put the don potter cam into your L26? (if the l28 is unusable).
  3. Your right TDC shouldn't matter. But it's hard to measure these thing, I am no expert and I have to remeasure several times. It's hard to get accurate numbers with the engine out and a proper timing wheel, 1 angle is really nothing but the lift can differ for just 1 angle. Also your .317 lift should be ~0.470 at the valve. If it's DSI motor I am sure it's good!
  4. Regarding measuring the cam, did you measure directly on the cam or on the valve? 0.050" on the cam equals ~0.075 on the valve. This is also not true because your lash will affect the real lift as well. How do you find exact TDC with engine in car? If it's a cam with fast lobes a 5 degree difference will make a huge differnce. My current cam has about 0.006" lift per degree change during it's opening phase.
  5. I guess the reason they suck stock is that it was hard in the 70s to make an engine that could work crusing at 1500 rpm and also perform well at WOT 7000 rpm. The L28 is very simple, 2 valves, single cam, single plenum intake, very basic computer (or carbs!), simple ignition etc. Head design is an issue with L28 and high HP. If you compare a stock L28 head to a modern say honda K head they flow very different. Lots and lots of work needs to go into the head to make it it flow enough for >100hp. The intake also sucks so you would have to do something about that as well. Not to mention computer. Rod/Stroke might be a problem but there are other issues to address first.
  6. I would recommend to post logs and maybe Chickenman could comment on those. Sounds like your timing is wrong as well. Could you run the stock timing? It's always good to get fuel only working first.
  7. I asked ATI " it’s high HP up around 1000HP I would recommend the 7” version P/N 917800."
  8. There has been a lot of discussion about what brand but not what size, to summarize: BHJ Dampers: Close stock replacement but most expensive. ATI Dampers: Needs different fan belt (very common has the autozone part number somewhere). Slight underdrive so alternator might not charge on idle. Note that this has nothing to do with size. Reading the chart they have, it seems like race is bigger than street. Rebuilt stock damper: Cheapest but good alternative if not race and modest rpms. Everything else seems to be a bad choice.
  9. Check out Datsun Spirit as well. I bought a strut bar from Top End Performance, was ok but not great quality. I have heard they are not the best to deal with and expensive but I had no issues with them.
  10. Did you make that mount? Looks very nice, did you cad something and then used someones CNC machione?
  11. Maybe replace the stock coil with a msd unit?
  12. I guess that this will not give you the accuracy of a trigger wheel. At higher RPM the dizzy is a bit inaccurate, at least so I heard. Never have any hands one experience with dizzy and high RPMs. Take a timing light when you run at 5000 RPM, it jumps all over the place. Not sure if that is the timing light being in accurate. But probably much better than just the dizzy. Do you plan on dyno tune it? Mine is a track car so it lives in high RPM and high heat, so good timing control is important. For a street car with less high RPM usage it might matterless. What RPMs do you see?
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