Micah

I'd like to keep the engine an inline 6 for purist reasons; nothing more. Nope, you didn't miss anything. I will most likely be using C85 which is a new fuel from VP Racing. It's 85% ethanol and 25% race fuel. We've had much better results with it as opposed to E85. It's consistant (it will ALWAYS be 85% ethanol) and is much higher octane. Thank you!

Haha! No, you definitely didn't come off bad. I'm new to this forum...just look at my single digit post count. Good info. I do remember reading the F54 block was stronger because of paired cylinders and that's why I chose it in that list. As for the intake manifold, I plan on using a large plenum with short fat runners. I will experiment with that more in a very accurate engine building software we have but that it the setup that made my Honda come alive. I will try to replicate the Edelbrock Victor X intake. Other stuff....Some sort fo twin disk clutch (haven't researched which type yet), Z32 TT transmission, R200 out of a Q45 with 300ZX Turbo axles with an aftermarket stub axle. I'm sure I'll blow diffs a lot so I'll just stock up on them. This will definitely be a promotional car showing both what our shop is capable of (to the import crowd) and to showcase our fabrication work (I plan on making the intake manifold, exhaust manifold, intercooler piping, exhaust, cage, and all the other little stuff). It will also be my personal "fun on the weekends" car. Sorry, no pictures of the base car... I don't even have the car yet! I'm just researching the best engine options for when I get out of college. If I do go this route then yes, I will most definitely document it! Thanks again for all the information. edit: I posted that before the page was refreshed. Thanks for the info and links to the cooling stuff. That's exactly what I'm looking for. As for the period-correctness, yes, that certainly different from person to person. I personally think an L is much more period correct than an RB or JZ. The non-crossflow head is definitely going to be a bottleneck in the whole project. I'll continue to research how to make them flow better and stay cooler; hot air coming in is just asking for knock. Thanks agian, guys! Right now I've narrowed my options to this L28 or a 1JZ making the same power or more (there goes ALL period correctness).

Sorry for comming off stuck up. I definitely didn't want to. Thanks for a good reply, AkRev, and for calling me out. The stuff we usually deal with is the new Hemi engines and big block Chevy's. The Mopars are all drag cars while the BBC (and LSX motors) are salt flat cars. We do the occasional import but it's mostly v8 stuff. These cars all have either 70mm or larger turbochargers or F1 superchargers. I am just using 700whp as a placeholder. My real goal is to run high 9's in a period correct, stock body S30. Propper machine work would of course be done to the block and head. This would include decking, boring with a torque plate, balancing, etc. I left out the details from my original post because I feel that those things go without saying in a build of this caliber. You mention o-ringing the block. Does that mean you think it will be nessicary? I only ask because that is not something done on Hondas, SR's, or Toyota's at this power level. Again, sorry for coming off stuck up. I just didn't want people thinking I was 16 years old and had an overwhelming desire to play Fast & Furious. My dad is indeed a wealth of knowledge. However, I'm looking for information on this engine specifically. When it comes to tuning I still have much to learn from him. Thanks again for your help, AkRev.

Thank you all. Xnke, you mentioned heat problems. What do you mean? Do certain cylinders get hotter than others leading to detonation? Please be more clear. As for tuning, my father and I run a dyno shop and have pumped out many 1000whp+ cars. That won't be an issue. Honestly, compared to what I'm used to, 700whp is rather low. I know I can easily make this power with a 1JZ or 2JZ, but I really want something period correct. Just because. So it seems what you all are saying is that with a built bottom end, head work, and a properly sized cam and turbo, this goal is pretty attainable. Very cool.

I'm not trying to start a "why do you need that much" or "I don't think it can be done" battle. What I'm really asking is why have very few people done this? Are there limitations to the block that simply cannot be overcome? Does the head crack at this much cylinder pressure? Or maybe the reason very few people have done this is simply because the L6 croud is more into N/A setups. I do know how to build engines and fabricate turbo systems. My 1.8L Civic is a daily driver that runs 11's on street tires. I have built many other 10 and 9 second cars besides. Thank you all for your input. If you have a motor that makes this much power or know of someone who does, please inform me as to any limitations that had to be overcome. I cannot find any in my research so that is why I am posting. To answer FlawleZ' question, the car will be a drag car that I drive around on nice days along with an occasional road course event. It will certainly not be dedicated to the road course though.

Thank you! I'll research him and his builds. Why? Because I want to go 9's in an S30 and be period correct. Why would I build an N/A engine to turbocharge it? That's rather silly. And it would certainly not cost $10K. As stated, I plan on making my own intake manifold. I would be using the Z32 turbo transmission. I know what it takes to make high horsepower in other platforms. I'm asking if there is anything specific to the L28 engine that would inhibit me from doing so.

Hey guys, I have a few questions for the high horsepower drag guys. I have been researching how to build an L28 (what pistons, rods, head, etc.). It may seem like a topic that comes up a lot, but when I say "high horsepower" I don't mean 300-400whp. 700whp is more my taste. If one were to build an L28 using an F54 block stock crank (unless there's a better aftermarket option that is redily availible) forged rods forged pistons (9.5:1-ish CR) ARP stuff throughout P90 head with port work MLS headgasket custom grind cam homemade intake with a large plenum and 80mmthrottlebody or something like that (my Honda has a 70mm) BW 366 turbo (or something like that) Megasquirt Obviously a build like this takes MANT more pieces than just the ones listed, but those are the big ones. I have been in high horsepower stuff for a while. My father and I own a performance dyno shop and I have built many a 10 second and 9 second car. It just seems to me that, if the crankshaft holds up, there's nothing stopping one from making 700whp from a setup like this. It makes me wonder why no one seems to be doing it. Or perhaps they are and just don't go on the internet often. Advise me!

Wow. What a great reply. It's going to take some time to read all of that info. Just what I wanted!

Hi, everyone. So this is my first post. I'm not new to cars or high horsepower at all. My dad and I run a dyno shop called OST Dyno and focus mainly on the new Hemi cars. I however, love classic Japanese cars. Now, I have searched for this information but no one really seems to be doing what I'm planning (or maybe I just didn't search properly). I want to build a stout L28 and spray the daylights out of it. My questions are these: What head would be best for such an application? There seems to be a lot of different OEM heads out there. Ideas on headwork and to the extent it should be done? What sort of cam? What compression? I plan on running only E85 or higher and was thinking 13.5:1ish. I need someone with experience here. Limits of the factory crank? I don't have a horsepower goal. That's just silly. But I want to run mid to low 10's in a car that weighs around or under 2000lbs with me in it. I have been drag racing my Honda for years and have tuned and done extensive work on many other turbo cars and N/A v-8's below the 12 second barrier. I know what it takes, and the work involved to reach my goals. The L-series are just a new world to me and I need help identifying what works and what doesn't. Thanks in advance!