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Micah

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Posts posted by Micah

  1. The L28 is most certainly capable. If your still considering swapping engines, you would be far more "period correct" as well as staying in the family if you used a VG30 which is more than capable of meeting your goals.

     

    I apologize if I missed it somewhere, but what fuel are you expecting to run? I'm assuming E85?

     

    I'd like to keep the engine an inline 6 for purist reasons; nothing more.

     

    Nope, you didn't miss anything. I will most likely be using C85 which is a new fuel from VP Racing. It's 85% ethanol and 25% race fuel. We've had much better results with it as opposed to E85. It's consistant (it will ALWAYS be 85% ethanol) and is much higher octane.

     

    Here's another pretty valuable thread regarding engine prep that probably ought to be a sticky:

    http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/106082-power-drain-from-timing-chain/page-2

     

    Search on PMC raceengines' posts and take a look at the attention to details in his engine builds.

     

    Thank you!

     

  2. No worries, Sorry also if I came off bad too, I was trying to be funny and its hard to come off through text.

    All I can do to help is make a few points,

    Block, F54 is hard to bore out big(but possible), I have seen more have luck with the N block, Also I would o-ring it.

    Crank, I have no idea the limit for the crank. Hopefully someone else can chime in on this.

    Seems like you have a plan for the rods and pistons.

    Head, Lots of debates about this part, do you have one already to start with? these are non crossflow heads, and they do take some experience to flow right and efficiently. Look into upgrading the bolts, shaving, and cam spacing/shimming to meet your needs. 

    Intake, noted about the custom build, you looking into short or long runners? <- that makes a big difference. 

     

    How are you planing to back up this power, Clutch, halfshafts, transmission, Body stiffing and so on.

    There is lots of good information on Hybridz, Sometimes it is hard to find using the search feature on the website. However, Google site search is always your friend.

     

    Good Luck

    PS, I know this list is very incomplete... but I am hungry, and my caring to hunger ratio is low. 

     

    Also, got some pics of the base car? Also, are you planing to use this car for promotion of your shop?

     

    Haha! No, you definitely didn't come off bad. I'm new to this forum...just look at my single digit post count.

     

    Good info. I do remember reading the F54 block was stronger because of paired cylinders and that's why I chose it in that list.

     

    As for the intake manifold, I plan on using a large plenum with short fat runners. I will experiment with that more in a very accurate engine building software we have but that it the setup that made my Honda come alive. I will try to replicate the Edelbrock Victor X intake.

     

    Other stuff....Some sort fo twin disk clutch (haven't researched which type yet), Z32 TT transmission, R200 out of a Q45 with 300ZX Turbo axles with an aftermarket stub axle. I'm sure I'll blow diffs a lot so I'll just stock up on them.

     

    This will definitely be a promotional car showing both what our shop is capable of (to the import crowd) and to showcase our fabrication work (I plan on making the intake manifold, exhaust manifold, intercooler piping, exhaust, cage, and all the other little stuff). It will also be my personal "fun on the weekends" car.

     

    Sorry, no pictures of the base car... I don't even have the car yet! I'm just researching the best engine options for when I get out of college.

     

    If I do go this route then yes, I will most definitely document it! Thanks again for all the information.

     

     

     

     

    edit: I posted that before the page was refreshed. Thanks for the info and links to the cooling stuff. That's exactly what I'm looking for.

     

    As for the period-correctness, yes, that certainly different from person to person. I personally think an L is much more period correct than an RB or JZ. 

     

    The non-crossflow head is definitely going to be a bottleneck in the whole project. I'll continue to research how to make them flow better and stay cooler; hot air coming in is just asking for knock. Thanks agian, guys! Right now I've narrowed my options to this L28 or a 1JZ making the same power or more (there goes ALL period correctness).

  3. Sorry for comming off stuck up. I definitely didn't want to. Thanks for a good reply, AkRev, and for calling me out.

    The stuff we usually deal with is the new Hemi engines and big block Chevy's. The Mopars are all drag cars while the BBC (and LSX motors) are salt flat cars. We do the occasional import but it's mostly v8 stuff. These cars all have either 70mm or larger turbochargers or F1 superchargers.

    I am just using 700whp as a placeholder. My real goal is to run high 9's in a period correct, stock body S30. Propper machine work would of course be done to the block and head. This would include decking, boring with a torque plate, balancing, etc. I left out the details from my original post because I feel that those things go without saying in a build of this caliber.
    You mention o-ringing the block. Does that mean you think it will be nessicary? I only ask because that is not something done on Hondas, SR's, or Toyota's at this power level.

    Again, sorry for coming off stuck up. I just didn't want people thinking I was 16 years old and had an overwhelming desire to play Fast & Furious.

    My dad is indeed a wealth of knowledge. However, I'm looking for information on this engine specifically. When it comes to tuning I still have much to learn from him.

     

    Thanks again for your help, AkRev.

  4. Thank you all.

    Xnke, you mentioned heat problems. What do you mean? Do certain cylinders get hotter than others leading to detonation? Please be more clear.

    As for tuning, my father and I run a dyno shop and have pumped out many 1000whp+ cars. That won't be an issue. Honestly, compared to what I'm used to, 700whp is rather low.

    I know I can easily make this power with a 1JZ or 2JZ, but I really want something period correct. Just because.


    So it seems what you all are saying is that with a built bottom end, head work, and a properly sized cam and turbo, this goal is pretty attainable. Very cool.

  5. I'm not trying to start a "why do you need that much" or "I don't think it can be done" battle.

    What I'm really asking is why have very few people done this? Are there limitations to the block that simply cannot be overcome? Does the head crack at this much cylinder pressure? Or maybe the reason very few people have done this is simply because the L6 croud is more into N/A setups.

    I do know how to build engines and fabricate turbo systems. My 1.8L Civic is a daily driver that runs 11's on street tires. I have built many other 10 and 9 second cars besides.

     

    Thank you all for your input. If you have a motor that makes this much power or know of someone who does, please inform me as to any limitations that had to be overcome. I cannot find any in my research so that is why I am posting.

     

     

     

    To answer FlawleZ' question, the car will be a drag car that I drive around on nice days along with an occasional road course event. It will certainly not be dedicated to the road course though.

  6. Look up Jeffp, or look for his web page, His page may have the info your looking for, High horspower L engine, has a ton of info from engine to rear end about his car and build.

     

    Thank you! I'll research him and his builds.

     

    What makes you think you need 700hp? Do you need to put an S130 in full street trim into the 9's?

     

    Are we building an L for a Cedric? If so, that's somewhat more reasonable...

     

    To hit your marks, consider bore strength, heat transfer, and airflow management before you start into the money. The stock rods and crank will hold that with minimal prep, the stock pistons will show their true colors about 450hp.

     

    You need some stronger, lighter pistons, and you need to prep the cylinder head and intake manifold to your airflow needs. To make 700 boosted wheel horsepower, you are looking at building a 350hp N/A engine...which is fine and can be done. You will probably be in 10kusd or a little over, then you will need to consider the transmission and structure of the car body.

     

    The stock intake can do it...but that doesn't make it the best way to go. You can do it under 7500rpm...which might be, depending on your transmission.

     

    Get the head worked by the best in the business, get a cam fitted that fits the head flow, and match your intake to the flow needs. Prioritize equality over massive flow...if runners 2-5 flow 250cfm, but 1 and 6 only move 180...then an intake that flows 200cfm on all six will make more reliable power.

     

    I'm interested to hear what chassis this is going in, as well as the transmission plan before I speculate on how I would approach this.

     

    Why? Because I want to go 9's in an S30 and be period correct.

     

    Why would I build an N/A engine to turbocharge it? That's rather silly. And it would certainly not cost $10K.

     

    As stated, I plan on making my own intake manifold. I would be using the Z32 turbo transmission.

     

     

    I know what it takes to make high horsepower in other platforms. I'm asking if there is anything specific to the L28 engine that would inhibit me from doing so.

  7. Hey guys, I have a few questions for the high horsepower drag guys. I have been researching how to build an L28 (what pistons, rods, head, etc.). It may seem like a topic that comes up a lot, but when I say "high horsepower" I don't mean 300-400whp. 700whp is more my taste.

    If one were to build an L28 using
    an F54 block
    stock crank (unless there's a better aftermarket option that is redily availible)
    forged rods
    forged pistons (9.5:1-ish CR)
    ARP stuff throughout
    P90 head with port work
    MLS headgasket
    custom grind cam
    homemade intake with a large plenum and 80mmthrottlebody or something like that (my Honda has a 70mm)
    BW 366 turbo (or something like that)
    Megasquirt

    Obviously a build like this takes MANT more pieces than just the ones listed, but those are the big ones.

    I have been in high horsepower stuff for a while. My father and I own a performance dyno shop and I have built many a 10 second and 9 second car. It just seems to me that, if the crankshaft holds up, there's nothing stopping one from making 700whp from a setup like this. It makes me wonder why no one seems to be doing it. Or perhaps they are and just don't go on the internet often. Advise me!

  8. Hi, everyone. So this is my first post.

     

    I'm not new to cars or high horsepower at all. My dad and I run a dyno shop called OST Dyno and focus mainly on the new Hemi cars. I however, love classic Japanese cars. Now, I have searched for this information but no one really seems to be doing what I'm planning (or maybe I just didn't search properly).

     

    I want to build a stout L28 and spray the daylights out of it. My questions are these:

     

    What head would be best for such an application? There seems to be a lot of different OEM heads out there. Ideas on headwork and to the extent it should be done? What sort of cam?

    What compression? I plan on running only E85 or higher and was thinking 13.5:1ish. I need someone with experience here.

    Limits of the factory crank?

     

    I don't have a horsepower goal. That's just silly. But I want to run mid to low 10's in a car that weighs around or under 2000lbs with me in it.

    I have been drag racing my Honda for years and have tuned and done extensive work on many other turbo cars and N/A v-8's below the 12 second barrier. I know what it takes, and the work involved to reach my goals. The L-series are just a new world to me and I need help identifying what works and what doesn't. Thanks in advance!

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