MikeyZee

I found AFM to throttle body boot from a 81 that will work for me but I have to plug one hole. Does anyone have one from a 77-79 (1 port) they want to trade for the one from a 81 (2 port)? lol......hey, the economy sucks, we should barter more! I am also looking for a fuel damper that goes back by the tank for a reasonable price.

some of my questions were answered when swapping out to a FI setup in my son's 240 at this site. They have some diagrams that may help. http://www.atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html

Hi, We are swapping out the L24 in my sons 72 240z for a L28. We have gotten most of the parts but it looks like the boot that connects the AFM to the throttle body is torn in half. I think it's a 79 (there was a tag on the wire harness saying it was made in 78) Does anyone have one? Thanks, Mike 303-435-1866 mguzinski@gmail.com

Hi All, My son has a 72 240z auto and we picked up a l28, intake, and 5 speed transmission for a great deal so we have been working on getting it all cleaned and ready to convert his 240z. I have so many questions about this conversion that has been done at least 1000 times over by all of you. I guess I'll start with the emissions and extra stuff sitting on the intake manifold. I only have a Haynes manual, and that has suppliment for the fuel injection and a FSM for a 72 so that covers no EFI stuff. Since it is a 72, even though a newer motor is going in it we have to only meet the 72 emission standards. I'm not sure what year the motor is from but it's a N47 intake. I got the EGR valve off and blocked, and took off the BPT valve. I understand that it's not essential and the header we have does not have a provision for the EGR. I think this motor had cruise control, there was a actuator mounted on the side of the manifold, held on by 3 bolts that looks like it controls the throttle shaft position. That was removed as well. Can the air regulator be removed and just left unplugged from the harness? As far as the PCV fitting in the valve cover, where does that go if I eliminate the air regulator? Does it go directly to the fitting on the throttle body? The actual PCV valve is in the under side of the manifold, what happens with that? Is it removed or just have it teed with the hose going to the throttle body? Can the remaining hose fitting on the throttle body be just blocked off? The vacuum lines were all off this manifold as well. Does anyone have a diagram of the vacuum routing? Does anyone have any diagrams or pictures of a cleaned up EFI factory setup? Any help would be great. Thanks All!

OK.....it was a busy weekend with no time to work on the Z. We found a few minutes to do some investigation and see what the fuel pressure problem could be. I found that the filter back by the tank in front of the electric fuel pump was clogged with a thick muddy like sludge. Looks like the tank will have to be cleaned and sealed. Now after removing the electric fuel pump and filter with just the factory style filter in it it is running 4-5 lbs. Both carbs are working very well. At one point the tank was ran dry, I am assuming that's when the filter was clogged with the sludge. At least we found the problem and I think we'll be able to get this taken care of. Thanks all for your input on this issue!

The measurement was between the man fuel pump and the hard fuel line that runs around the valve cover. The electric fuel pump is in the rubber line between the tank and the hard line. I'll put the pressure gauge right after the hard line tonight and check it there too......good idea. So you can test the pressure before or after the pump....no difference? I could mount the gauge before or after the filter, right now I'm not real pleased how it's mounted. Could there be anything in the tank like a pickup screen that could be causing blockage? Is the spacer required on the manual fuel pump? Last night after we installed the pump the front carb started working but just doesn't seem as strong as the rear carb but it is still working at this point. Thanks again Daniel!

1 PSI.......I think we have a problem! We put in the new pump and pressure gauge last night. This is with or without the Mr Gasket pump that is supposed to put out 2-5. Blockage in the tank or what? This weekend we will be taking out the electric pump and filter back at the tank. Any other suggestions about checking for restrictions? Thanks All!

I have checked the float bowl and it does have fuel in it as I remember. The car will start and the front carb will get gas if I choke them. You can see that they are "wet". I have not actually pulled off the hose to the front carb but it seems that if the bowl has fuel in it and the line has fuel in it the carb should be working........It all "should be" lol Another thing that I have not tried is getting longer fuel lines going from the hard fuel lines right next to the valve covers and cris-crossing the supply lines. First I have to put the new pump in and the presure guage. There are no obstructions of the linkage on the carbs. Hmmm? wonder if the desk I'm banging my head against will dent before my forehead....

Each time I do clean it it does work for a little bit. I think I have done that about 4 times. No crud is in the bowls or screens. That was my thought first was that something was clogging the carb. The fuel lines are the factory metal lines and return lines. I did replace the soft lines under the hood from the hard lines that come in from the hard lines from the tank. I also replaced the soft supply lines at the tank as well.

I have tried letting it cool down and it seems to have no effect on it. The front carb will not start working. This is the most bizzar thing. I did pick up the new pump after work today. It is one that resembles the OEM pump. The one that was in there was a sealed pump and quite a bit smaller that the new one. Maybe it will have some effect on it. I forgot to pick up the fuel presure gauge today but I'll get one tomorrow. Michael should be back from his Mom's later this week so I think I'll wait till he gets back and have him put the new stuff on his car. I was also wondering if the fuel return is letting too much fuel back to the tank....I'm not real sure how that works. Thanks again for the ideas.....

It was an adventure..... Yes, no fuel will spray out of the accelerator pump outlets on whichever carb is in front after about 15 mins after they are put back together. The issue does not follow the carb it follows the position of the carb.....always the front mounted carb eventually. The screens look clean and I can't really see any contamination in the carbs, filter, or screens......a very funky issue. It is a new filter and new screens along with the carb rebuilds, you would think some crud would be trapped in them but there is not. Like I said we have verified the lines have flow with compressed air and the float bowls have fuel in them. I am picking up a new fuel pump this afternoon that I ordered and I'll look for a preasure guage and regulator when I get to the parts store.

Hi All, My son has a 72 240z with a L24 and dual Weber DGVs. We have been having issues with these lately. I have rebuilt these carbs and after they were rebuilt they worked great for about 3 days. When we installed them after they were rebuilt we also put on a new filter and replaced all the soft fuel lines under the hood. The fuel filter appears to be a newer one so I didn't replace that one but I did add an electric one back by the tank. What will happen is that the front carb will just stop spraying gas at random. Maybe it will run for 2 hours maybe 3 days maybe 20 minutes. On Saturday the front carb decided to quit spraying gas. The temp was maybe mid 70s. We had the car towed to a friends house and swapped the front and rear carbs. ok....the one that quit still would not work on the rear but the front worked. The next day I took apart the top of the carb that failed the day prior. Blew out the fuel inlets and was able to get fuel spraying from it....yee haw! Both carbs were spraying. I made sure timing and idle were set (auto 1050 in p). I used the synchrometer and dialed in the carbs. After about 15 minutes the front carb stopped spraying. Hmmm? Maybe there is crud in the line that feeds that carb. I blew all the hard lines out with compressed air. The fuel in the line came out and about equal amounts of air from the front and rear feeds. Again I took the top off the troubled carb it was full of gas (it was on the first carb too). I sent some compressed air through it and again got it working for about 20 minutes. Then the front carb quit spraying again. It's always the carb I have in the front position. The screens in the carbs had nothing in them blocking flow either. I have also tried it without the electric pump with the same result. I have ordered a new mechanical fuel pump on order and plan to criss cross the lines that go to each carb......that is the next step. Has anyone had this issue? Any other troubleshooting advice? Maybe a fuel pressure reg/guage would help? Thanks for any help or advice!

Do these insructions apply if I am using the magnetic pickup? I have a ZX dizzy without the e12-80 module in my son's 72 240z. The red and green from the dizzy are connected to the green and violet of the MSD 6T. The switched B/W is hooked up to the switched (red thin wire) from the MSD. The G/W and the other B/W are connected together. I was told By MSD to use the 8910EIS because I am using the magnetic pickup???? The MSD still gives the same output to the Tach connector right? Glad I saw this post!! You guys know everything about these cars!! Thanks, Mike

I have a ZX electronic dizzy with an MSD 6T, blaster 2 coil and NO tach....Fires up great and runs way up to ?????? RPM just fine.