Freelancelance
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Posts posted by Freelancelance
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Sweet, I am still in the tear down phase, and selling everything I do not need, have a busy few months ahead for work, so I don't expect to pull out the plasma cutter or welder to summer... but I will do what I can while I have time...no rush... but can only imagine the fun this will be to drive....
I love the direction you're going with your motor.. I am going AFR's on a forged stroked crank and rods... perfect is really 408, but might make it a 427 just to say it has a 427 lol
Looking forward to seeing your build..... can't wait till I can do some measuring...
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Thanks for the thread, How did you like running a big torque motor vs. a high revving one?
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Interesting way to make some power, I just finished reading up on how to go about it, I had heard about it for years, but always thought it was too "exotic" although I used to think that about strokers, and been having good luck with them for quite a while now, from putting a stroked 4.0 to make it a 4.3 in my jeep... to a few Chevy and Ford motors of cars I have built...
I will have to see some flow numbers as aluminum heads are pretty reasonable for what they give you + not stuck to one manifold.. If anyone is interested,, this is one of the pages I did my research on... http://www.themustangshop.com/clevor.cfm
If you already have all the parts, and just have to pick up a manifold it makes a lot of sense... good luck on your build... looking forward to seeing your Clevor..build!
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Thanks for responding, I plan on doing a "full frame: as well, as I am going with a shortened 9" and a 4 link in the rear.. I have a rust free Z thankfully, I am working from rear to front on this build.. and was just going to connect to the "front sub frame" as it is solid... I haven't done the measuring it is going to take to see what I am facing up there... + I am leaning to go with a double a-arm suspension up front. which gives me some options, as well as challenges....
Would like to know more about changing out the flanges, and I might have to fab all the way to the radiator to get some long tubes..... Wondering if it would be possibly worth it...
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Hey,
I have seen talk,of dropping a 351W in, but was wondering who's done it and where are the links? Thanks, I looked and Googled...
I am still in the tearing down side of the build, and was thinking going LS, as I can pick them up for relatively cheap, and it makes good power with a few mods.. then I started adding everything up to get it the way I wanted it, and realized, I can go "old school" and get all that and more for the same money...and not have the "electronics' part of the equation to deal with.. I had a Stroked 351W (408) in a 70 Mustang.. and it was a beast, perfect street/strip motor...Im sure it has been done, just would like to know what to look out for, just like any other build on here....Thanks,
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I have talked to a number of people about it, and have heard a lot of pro's and cons for each...Still not sure which way I will go, Starting from the back to the front on this build... And I have hurt my brain and wearing my body out with all the calculations, drawings, and ordering steel and supplies. Slow but sure on how I want to do the back half at least...
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Its one of those things.. you get what you pay for.... I have seen some that look like someone just fired up the welder, and tossed parts at it...... I have had success with Heidts and if I decide to do it again... I will invest in one from them, and make it work... had to do the same thing for a 57 T-Bird, , considering it had a big block ford, and that front bumper came close to giving me a hernia putting it on...it was worth the effort...LOL... thanks for all the input.... I have a lot of reading and costing to do...
BTW... I'm not saying that all Mustang 2 front suspension setups are bad, just the two I've had direct experience with. I also have a 1951 Chevrolet Coupe coming into the shop in a month with another Mustang 2 style front end conversion. His steering rack mounts have torn off the cross member.I think the big issue is, as I mentioned before, in the details. Some vendors of Mustang 2 front end conversions pay attention to the details and others just slap crap together, powder coat it black, and call it good.
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Interesting, because it hasn't been that way on any of my installs, and like you said, a number of things would make it pull to one side... Off to pull out the motor trans now.. I got good help... and time.... I think it will be like anything else.. a game of numbers... Thanks,
Funny, I was just talking to a fellow dragracer at the strip just yesterday who was trying to unload (sell off) a tube-chassis 280ZX that had a Mustang II front suspension. He said the car ran great and straight under power, but that the car wanted to run off the side of the track under braking and was quite scary. It could be anything from improper alignment to worn parts that would cause that. I just thought is was interesting that this thread came up just a day after. I'm happy with how my stock-style front suspension works. It is very light and behaves predictibly-if it ain't broke, don't fix it!
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WOW,Thanks for the link, that will answer a lot of my questions...
Check out VSUSP
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Got a few more books on chassis and suspensions.... more things to look up and cost out before I go one way or the other... Interesting that you had those issues with a Double A Arm... I have used Heidts exclusively (although they are all close to the same) and I didn't have either of those issues on any of my installs....I guess that is why I was / might be still leaning that way... Its what I have had success with..getting well versed in what a well modified strut set up is all about, before I do anything else, tonight starts the beginning of the tear down.... I have time...Thanks for the thoughts and knowledge.
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The stock 240Z strut front suspension has much better geometry through its full range of travel then the two heavily modified (TCI and I forgot the other) Mustang 2 front suspensions I've had experience with. The worst one had the anti-roll bar bind the front suspension at anything more the 1" of bump travel. The second worse one had silly amounts of bumpsteer. These Mustang 2 setups were both on mid 50's F100 pickup trucks.As an engineering exercise building a SLA front suspension on the S30 chassis has been done by a few folks. A member here has also swapped in a E36 BMW M3 strut front suspension which has fantastic geometry.
Excluding some really bad front suspension designs (Morgan sliding pillar, beam axle, Fox body Mustang) the devil is in the details. If you want to build a SLA front suspension for your S30 go for it. Will it be better the a well modified S30 front strut setup, probably not. Is it worth it, that's up to you and your wallet.
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Thank you, I refer to the Double A Arm Front Suspension as IFS, because the world I came from (building old muscle cars) called it that.. I will not refer to it like that anymore... I have had some good luck with the Double A Arm Front Suspension on heavier older cars (was night and day in a 55 Bel Aire, I have quite a bit of experience with them, Having done 4 of them, 3 that were made for the vehicles they went in, and one I had to make work,, and I got it right, maybe beginners luck? So thats is why I was thinking of going this way, I also like the idea of 5 lugs, and the rim and brake choices that affords me, but with the lightness of a Z... probably what I am thinking might be overkill... Thanks so much for the posts, As for capable.. I'd like to think so.. as for will it be enough to justify the effort.. I still don't know,.... To do it, just to say I can... I been there.. although I am building this to be my last and a keeper...I guess I have more to mull over Thanks again,
Can we not refer to this as IFS? Struts are IFS too. Thread title changed.
Worth it? Only you can answer that. Building a Double-A Arm suspension is not trivial. It’s FAR easier to get it wrong than it is to get it right. Get it wrong and you’ve spent a large amount of blood and sweat for nothing… unless you just want the challenge of it or wow factor. Get it right, and even then, it will probably only be incrementally better than a well prepped set of struts. So the question is… are you capable of making an improvement, and if you are, will it be enough better to justify the effort? Or is it just to say “I did it�
Here is a copy of a discussion by a couple of our members…
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Im am no stranger to IFS or the fabrication needed to put one in, my last 4 builds all had IFS in old muscle cars.... I am asking the question because I wanted to know if anyone thinks its worth doing an IFS, or that the aftermarket has built everything that enhances this somewhat "dated" strut technology.. Thanks for sharing the build of your frame... It confirmed a number of things for me, which is awesome to know before I start digging in...
In the thread you linked he is just buying a mustang II style front suspension. You just buy it, weld in the crossmember (correctly) and bolt on all the parts. Roll center, bumpsteer, camber gain, caster, KPI and even the brakes are all worked out for you (for better or worse). The kits are made by a lot of manufactures and start at a couple grand and go up from there. I'm actually installing a Heidts setup on an old Ford tomorrow. It's boring, but it works.
There are lots of people that have adapted other IFS setups from stock vehicles too. I think I have seen BWM and Nissan 240sx front suspensions adapted into a Z also.
Another option is to fabricate your own suspension to suit your needs/wants. If you are not sure what this entails, either froget about it or plan on reading A LOT before you start.
Probably the most practical is to modify the stock strut design and optimize it for your car. Unless you want it to be really low, it seems like it can be made to work and work well for most applications.
Every design is a compromise and I think your skills and understanding of suspension design should be your guide rather than what people on a forum think.
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I am not as good with how to link on a forum as I am with fabricating steel... but here goes..http://forums.hybrid..._1#entry1005609
Who's post, and what car?
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Hi,I am still in the process of a build list, and this site has answered every question but one.. I have searched, and found one person, that is going to go with an new IFS in his Z,and I am stalking that post to see how he goes about it.. I know they make great aftermarket for the strut suspension in the front, it seems like it would be a no brainer if it is a better option.. I would like to hear everyones opinion, for or against... BTW, this car will probably see a little of everything, but mostly street... as I build to drive um...Thanks in advance..
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I have to be honest, I have never been a fan of Burnt Orange... but it looks AMAZING on your Z....I am just getting started doing the teardown, and might be re-thinking my paint....
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You are going at your build the exact way I had/have in my head, with the exception is I am not going to have a lift off front end... Which leaves me to ask.. If you were not going to make a mold of the front end.. would you have taken it off anyway? I am not scared of Fab.. I just was thinking if I didn't need to.. I just bought a Z and its my first (non classic muscle) build I haven't even pulled the 6 thats in it yet to get a good look...but will hopefully will the room after the first of the year to begin this project.. Thanks for the pictures,, seems pretty straight forward.... Good Luck!
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I just Thought that ther should be links to 2 of the places that can provide conversion kit's. Johns Cars makes a kit for the LS family of motor'shttp://www.brokenkitty.com/
And Jag's That Run (aka JTR) make's a kit for the first generation Small Block Chevy's (SBC). General V8 Z swap page: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html
Datsun Z V8 conversion parts: https://shell7.tdl.com/~jags/Datsun_Order.html
Datsun Z V8 manual order page: https://shell7.tdl.com/~jags/OrderingBooks.html
Ya, I know eveybody should know this, it's common knowlege, but I was thinking these links might just cut down on the newbie questions.
Thanks, I just sold my last project, a RestoMod 1969 RS Camaro... I am putting together a build list and this answered all my questions... So thanks!!
Anyone drop a 351W in their Z?
in Ford V8Z Tech Board
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Thanks for the info on the Machine Shop, I do not know them personally, but do know people that do, they have an awesome reputation thanks for reminding me, as I didn't put them as a "vendor" in my build book...