AkumaNoZeta
-
Posts
658 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by AkumaNoZeta
-
-
I have an 86 Capri with all Mustang parts in it, like JohnC said they are carried over. Suspension sucks and the body is as stiff as a pancake. Mine has a 90' 5.0 HO (100% stock) with the close ratio Cobra transmission, aluminum driveshaft, 3.73 CLSD, and 275 tires and I still feel that the Z was faster in a straight line and the Z is a thousand times smoother in the corners (that's comparing a rust-bucket Z to a rust-free fox too)
I'm currently working on the frame-work of the Z right now and I can't wait to be able to drive it again, but I'm not going to rush it and don't expect it to see the road again for a few years...or a decade.
-
At work we put a new 8.8 IRS diff inside of some SUV (it was a quick job so I didn't really have time to see what it was, be more than a couple years old). It was just whining a little and the customer wanted a whole new unit put in it. The old one is sitting on the ground free to the taking. It looks different than yours though, the back cover has two arms coming out the sides with tapped holes for bolting and just one front mount coming off the side. I haven't looked too see what gears are in it but I didn't see anything besides the pin when I looked through the axle holes so I know it's an open one, but that doesn't matter since a LSD and set of gears are cheap for them.
I was wondering what you're doing about the axles? What kind of options are there?
-
This looks like it will be the easiest car ever to work on. You can quickly change timing belt/tensioners just by reaching in through the grill, won't even have to open the hood and as Fuzzydice mentioned, clutch replacement, just unbolt the transmission and slide it back with no heavy lifting at all.
-
You figure as long as you keep to the profile of the wheel well like RTZ posted that you should be just fine for tire clearance, right? I really like this idea since I've been thinking what to do about my car's cancer problem there.
-
If the brake/clutch cylinders are a concern, use a Toyota engine whose exhaust is on the right instead.
-
Is that the dash emblem on the strut brace? I like that.
-
You know you own a Datsun when you're kissing a girl, but your eyes fixed on your Z.
-
I would love to have something like that except for one pet peeve I have about mounting a compressor in a car. I just see it as another thing to worry about.
-
I'd like to see this finished. What about getting a complete AWD G donor car, use the hubs from it with shortened half-shafts?
-
Sounds like a cool idea to me. The only thing that worries me is the removable tubed front. I never saw one like that before and don't know if it would be as strong as a welded in unit.
-
Just half it, 55* for 110*.
-
I know the difference between subframe connectors and frame rails. I was going to use 2X2 tubing for my connectors from TC to the rear crossmember and 16g for the floors like you mentioned. But my front frame rails are in bad shape as well with small rust holes above the crossmember and the driver side sway bar mount is crumbled. You did bring up a point that I forgot to think about, the engine is attached to the crossmember. I've spent so many years looking at other people's swaps and I forgot about that since most swaps result in people making a separate crossmember for their engines.
That's why I asked it here. I knew there was something I wasn't thinking about. I guess I'll just replace the front frame rails with 2X3s like other's have on here before, in the stock location and then after I have the final ride height established I can measure the pick-ups points, find the instant center, and map it out so I can play with a string computer like Carroll Smith and see where the best spot would be for my particular car.
-
Here's the video of that car that I found a year ago.
-
It's been a while since I've posted on here. My car is gutted and the passenger side floor board was removed, next month I'm getting a Miller MIG and I'll be fabbing up my own connectors and floors. After I get that done I'm planning on cutting out the old front subframes and replacing them with 2X3 0.063" tubing.
My question regards to the fact that a lot of you with lowered Zs have drilled out a hole 1" above the original on the crossmember to raise the roll-center and I was thinking since I'm replacing the whole sha-bang anyways if it would be a bad idea to raise both the frame rails 1"? I figure by doing that then the TC bucket would also raise an inch so the anti-squat stays the same and the sway bar mounts being higher would prevent any chance of it binding.
It's an early 260Z by the way. Would 0.063" tubing be thick enough too? I know most people here use 0.085" but I can't find it locally.
-
I thought I should explain why I haven't touched my 260Z for about a year.
All the parts from the 90' Mustang are going into the 86' Capri in the background.
Bought the Capri as is for $350 delivered. The Mustang shell is a forest of rust but the guy I bought the Capri from was more than happy to take it off our hands.
The ugly Capri rear is gone and the hatchs are swapped, the 7.5 was swapped with the 8.8 from the Mustang. The Mustang had to be on wheels so essentially I had to do everything twice.
Mustang tail lights and rear bumper cover on the Capri. SO much better than the Capri lights.
The engine: stock 5.0 HO from the Mustang, the Mustang was put on a DynoJet a few years ago and made 220HP with 300LBFT
I had to rebuild the WC T5. Wasn't going to spend $1200 on a new one and not going to waste $200 for another one that will break. Parts for rebuild ran up to $650.
I used new gears to make it into a close ratio box to match the 3.73 gear and in hope that it won't break as easy as the stockers.
Speaking of breakage, this is the busted input shaft that put the Mustang out of commission. The new one is next to it to show how the teeth are supposed to look like.
Finally installed.
Suspension is all stock, including the springs that I cut 1.5 coils off of. I didn't have any good struts or shocks to choose from on either car but I was too far over budget to buy them yet.
I am currently using the car as my new daily driver so I can start working on the Z again, but it still has it's problems. A rock or something got stuck on the driver's side brake pad and ruined the rotor (new rotors come in tomorrow). Brake booster is bad, should have checked that before I cleaned it up and painted it, none of the gauges work, and the interior currently consists of nothing but two seat and a dash. All I'm missing interior wise is the headliner and carpet, but the pieces are all mismatched in years and colors so they need to be worked over.
-
I'd love to have a 1/8 scale model of a Z432. I got the Jada one from Walgreens for $9.99 a while back.
-
I have the same problem with my car. I put in a 77' 5 Speed in my 260Z and at first it was fine but after a few months it would start grinding when going into reverse and then if you wait longer it starts to get hard to put in first. Then I went to bleed the clutch and I saw metal shavings in the fluid so I suspect the slave cylinder is going bad. All I did was continue bleeding it and adjusted the clutch pedal up more and that worked for another few months but now the grinding in reverse is coming back.
I hope that story helps you.
-
Don't worry, the Mustang is already as someone's body shop because he said he wants to cut the rusted shell up and make it a dirt track car. The Capri is going to be nothing but a beater car and it's too big of an ugly pig for me get distracted away from the Z with. The whole time I work on that car the only thing I can think of is working on my S30.
-
Just noticed the photos are really large. I'm sorry for that and I'll try to go in and fix it.
-
I haven't been working on my Z for a long time but I have an excuse. I've been working on a different car so I can stop using my Z as a daily commuter. Here's some photos.
What I'm starting with. Swapping the Mustang parts to the Capri because the Mustang is severly rusted.
The reason the Mustang was sitting for a while. Replaced by a 2.95 1st close ratio gear set. 8.8 Posi came in the Mustang with a 3.73 already in it.
Here's how it sits today.
There's still a ton of work to do but it's getting there. Currently waiting on my friend to find some free time and help me put the engine and transmission back in. I'm not going to be doing much body work on it, I already went way past the budget and deadline.
-
I always thought the ones mounted behind the diff used the same bar just with the brackets in a different spot. I guess I was wrong.
-
I've been searching all around for rebuild kits for the FS5W71A. I have a used 77' five speed in my 260Z but 5th doesn't work at all and when I look at all the different sites with rebuild kits they either don't say whats in the kit or have a special note in the description saying "5th synchro ring is a black fiber ring (crush style) not available in kit."
So what can be done? I really don't want another un-rebuilt transmission and I really don't want to spend a lot of money on it since I plan on doing an engine swap in the future but I want to keep running the L28 while I rebuild a second engine on the side.
-
The only reason I know of to use lead is if the car came from the factory with leaded seams and you're doing a strict restoration.
-
I just use a wire wheel on a 4" grinder. Works very well.
7M-GE alternator alternatives.
in Toyota L6 Forum
Posted
I recently got a 7M-GE to swap into my Z when I'm done with the chassis work. I'm working on making it look the way I want it to look. My salvaged engine didn't come with an alternator and since I want to make brackets to fit it below the water pump I was thinking I could get a better/cheaper alternative to make my brackets to (planning three 45 DCOEs with MS for spark control).
I was hoping someone would know of one that pulls around 100 Amps and comes with the right kind of pulley. I spent some time looking at GM ones, but they all had pulleys for the 5 rib belts. I work at a garage and I've been looking at them on all the vehicles that come in the shop, but I haven't been able to find any with the 4 rib belt like on the Supra.