[Where is windtunnel data and videos at?]

It has its own sub forum in the FAQ section. I miss a lot of the FAQ stuff because it's pulled out of the topic specific subs.

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/86-windtunnel-test-results-and-analysis/

[Eibach vs. Vogtland springs]

No luck finding the linear Tokico springs? I've only heard good things about them.

[ISO: Throttle Linkage Manifold -> Throttle Body]

Thanks for the options guys.

 

Still looking

[ISO: Throttle Linkage Manifold -> Throttle Body]

I'm looking for the cam and rod with the yellow plastic ends as pictured below. I have an n42 intake manifold that's missing these pieces.

I'd also consider an entire manifold with the linkage attached. 

[WTB l28et 82/83 distributor]

They're available new/reman for about $160+ (eBay was the cheapest I saw). Oil shaft is still available new too if you need that for converting over an engine that doesn't have the star-shaped drive. 

[240Z or L16 Connecting Rods]

I've got a set of 6 L24 rods with the 9mm rod bolts. Pistons are still attached. Asking $225+shipping. 

[List of Options for Crank and Cam Position Sensors]

Thanks! I updated the original post with your guy's info. I also added some pictures.

[List of Options for Crank and Cam Position Sensors]

Anyone know of any other options out there that aren't custom? Seems like the ZXT distributor with the DIYautotune wheel is the easy and cheap route.

[price check on 240z 133mm connecting rods with 9mm bolts]

Thanks for the heads up!

[price check on 240z 133mm connecting rods with 9mm bolts]

It's been awhile since I've sold a set of these, so I thought I would check on the going rate. 

 

Stock set of 133mm 240z rods with the 9mm rod bolts. These are the desirable ones for a stroker build. The last two sets of the 9mm variants I sold for $150 and the 8mm ones for $75, but that was several years go. I can't find any for sale or recently sold ones for reference. 

 

The caps are all attached, they're fairly clean, and pistons are still attached, for what it's worth. 

[List of Options for Crank and Cam Position Sensors]

I made the list! Thanks.

 

FYI Technically you could combine my cam trigger with a flywheel trigger for a "duel wheel no missing teeth". No counterweighting!

 

Definitely the case! With your setup some other kind of crank angle sensor is needed. Is there a practicality to having cam angle without crank angle?

 

 

 

I think if the flywheel was drilled at a machine shop that could make exact depth and degree spacing that you might get away without balancing .

 

Pro: more stable and probably more accurate signal

 

You're probably right about being able to skip the balancing if it's accurately machined. I'm guessing that it wouldn't be far off with a DIY drilling if you're accurate enough for it to be useful as a trigger. Is a flywheel trigger more accurate than a damper mounted one? I wouldn't think so.

 

 

You don't have to pull the Timing Cover when you change the OP spindle shaft. Just remove  the oil pump. The spindle shaft will drop down when you remove the pump.

 

Spindle shaft has special splined drive to eliminate slop on Dizzy end. Gear slop is not a big concern if new gears are installed.

 

Thanks for the info! I didn't realize it would pull out with the pump. Are new gears available? 

 

 

I've made a few edits to my original post to reflect new info.

[List of Options for Crank and Cam Position Sensors]

I picked up a MS3x unit with wiring harnesses that was previously running a 1JZ in a Supra to convert my L28 over from carbs to EFI. I'm still deep in the learning phase, and am currently searching out all of my options for cam and crank sensors. I want this thread to serve as a list of what I've found. Your input is welcome and appreciated.

 

Crank:

 

1982-83 280ZXT distributor with DIYautotune wheel

Purchase trigger wheel only, $28

 

 

Pros:

- Provides both crank and cam signals for sequential injection

- DIYautotune support and documentation (installation and wiring guide)

- Widely available as remanufactured parts (currently ~$200)

- Shaft is available new (currently ~$90) as Nissan p/n 15040-P8000, "SPINDLE ASSY-OIL PUMP DRIVE", Lookup code 15040

 

Cons:

- Requires specific oil pump shaft, which requires pulling timing cover/damper oil pump to install

- Less accurate at high RPM due to gear lash (is this a valid concern?), but is not of t concern unless gears are significantly worn.

- Used units are getting increasingly hard to find

 

 

 

Austin Hoke bolt-in kit 

Development pics

Purchase kit without sensor, $215

Purchase sensor, $37.50

 

 

Pros: 

- Crank mounted trigger wheel gives accurate signal throughout RPM range

- Well-designed kit with straightforward documentation

- Fit and finish look great

- Uses commonly used sensor

- Includes distributor block off plate 

 

Cons:

- Must use Euro damper which is getting harder to find (Austin is currently developing a new one for the L24 damper)

- Cost

 

 

 

Drilling flywheel for hall sensor

Purchase hall sensor, $43

Will add example install links

 

Pros:

- Cheap

- Accurate

- Sensor is tucked away nicely

 

Cons:

- Requires pulling flywheel to modify

- May require balancing flywheel after modification

 

 

 

Custom mounting of universal or OEM trigger wheel

Purchase universal wheel, $29

 

 

Pros:

- Can control details of mounting (two threaded holes on front of damper looks easiest, inspired by this post by BRAAP)

- Cheap

 

Cons:

- Costly in time

 

 

 

Top End Performance Trigger Wheel fab Service, $200+
http://www.racetep.com/automaker/datsun-z/z-car-triple-sidedraft-weber-carb-and-fuel-injection-conversions.html]Info page, scroll to bottom

 

 

Pros: 

- Can send in your current pulley and they will fab a kit for it

- Can likely control some details since each one is custom

 

Cons:

- Possible wait time? Each looks built to order

 

 

 

BJH Dynamics / Robello Racing 

BJH Datdun/Nissan Trigger Wheels

Robello Datsun Parts Page

 

 

Pros:

- Quality looks top notch

 

Cons:

- Fits their specific damper ($$$)

- Very expensive

- Looks like trigger wheel only without a bracket for the sensor

 

 

 

 

Cam:

 

Jeep 4.0 CAS in stock distributor location

Installation writeup by jacky4566

 

 

Pros:

- Simple modification for install

- Easy to install/remove

- Sensor is cheap and widely available both new, used, and remanufactured

 

Cons:

- Uses distributor location, so crank signal must come from another spot

 

 

 

 

 

I'll continue to update this post with more info as I come across it

[wtb 240z rods]

I have a set with the 9mm bolts. Just sent you a text. 

[Carbs to FI - 9/71]

That makes a lot more sense. I didn't realize you had that clearance there and was thinking of a stock configuration where the tank and floor are only separated by the pads on the tank.

[Carbs to FI - 9/71]

With that Tank Inc unit you'll have to drop down part of the tank too, right? With the outlets on the top you might be able to run a spacer between the top of the tank and the floor and loosen up on the J bolts if you don't. I wouldn't want the outlet of the sump pressed right against the floor though.

 

The price really isn't bad including the pump though!

[Carbs to FI - 9/71]

I'm happy to be watching you go through this because I'm soon to follow! What made you chose the Tank Inc. setup over some of the other ones out there?

 

I'm currently looking at the VetteWorks adapter to run a 4th gen Camaro (LS1) fuel pump and am researching all of our options out there.

 

VetteWorks adapter:  http://www.vetteworksonline.net/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=89

Installed on a Camaro tank:  http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=56613.0

 

I think the easiest route overall is going with one of these modern in-tank setups since I need to drop my tank to clean it anyway. Austin Hoke did a nice job with the mounting of an Aeromotive setup.

 

[flow difference 44mm intake valve vs. 42mm]

Area of 42mm valve = 5542 mm^2

Area of 44mm valve = 6082 mm^2

 

Flow is directly proportional to the size of the valve opening, so you're getting about a 9% increase with the larger valves, assuming that the valves are the limiting factor.

[The official White Z thread]

I've been waiting years to post in this thread! Can I play too? The paint is single stage Omni by PPG, Color code 882. Two coats of primer followed by five coats of base. It's excessively thick but I got some pretty bad runs on my first coat that I wanted to make sure I had the depth to be able to color sand out

 

Sorry the pics are flipped. I'm posting from my phone.

[WTB SU Fuel Rail / Hard Fuel Line]

How much would you ask including shipping to 98408?

[WTB SU Fuel Rail / Hard Fuel Line]

Thanks for the heads up. Wish he would ship!

[WTB SU Fuel Rail / Hard Fuel Line]

Bump

[WTB SU Fuel Rail / Hard Fuel Line]

Looking for the hard line that bolts to the intake at the head and feeds a set of SU carbs.

Please respond with a picture and an asking price including shipping to zip 98408.

 

Doesn't need to be pretty since it's for an autoX car. Functional is all I need.

 

Examples can be seen in these pics:

 

 

[Building a turbo header, have questions]

Doesn't look like a VG to me...

[Seeking air compressor recommendations]

X2 on the IR. I run a similar one to what Andy posted and am very happy with it. It is loud, but I have it in another room of the shop behind a door.

[How do I modify original parts for sale post?]

PM a moderator and ask them to edit it for you. After a certain period of time posts lose the edit feature to preserve their content.