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Posts posted by DatsunD
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still looking? i have a 74 260z w 280zxt swap running, tokico shocks, tial bov, boost gauge, air/fuel ratio gauge, new head gasket intake/exhaust gasket, water pump gasket, thermo gasket, new water pump, new thermostat, new stering wheel, new voltage reg., new ignition. pm if interested.
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i got a 74 260z w 280zxt swap will tell details if interested
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74 260z w 280zxt swap running, no dents, primer black, new parts include- header gasket intake/exhaust gasket machened p90 head, tokico shocks, ignition, battery, door poppers, extra parts. pm if interested
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74 260z w 280zxt swap all stock running, no dents, missing bumpers. Pm if interested.
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I have a 74 260 z with 280zx turbo fuel injection and turbo, no dents, little rust in battery Trey, running. pm if interested.
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I fired it up for the first time today! So i rented a fuel pressure gauge from auto zone hooked it up and got 60psi. I then replaced those old fuel hoses on the fuel rail and forgot to bleed the pressurized fuel before cutting the hose off, yea fuel sprayed everywhere but was a blessing in disguise when i found the fuel to be flowing the wrong direction DOH! I had the fuel feed line on the drain outlet of the fuel rail and the fuel drain line pressurized from the pump haha! After swapping them around she fired right up! She is backfiring a lot? maybe because i don't have the cat converter and muffler on? I have the air/fuel ratio gauge on and it's reading stoich.
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I checked every injector by connecting them to the battery one by one and they all work. The ECU grounds the injectors when it want's them to spray so it's the ECU?
I had the tack signal wire disconnected because i didn't think that would prevent it from starting but just got done connecting it and still nothing. I don't have one of those little black resistors found under the dash of the L28et for the tack signal wire maybe thats why too?
I don't know how much fuel pressure i have so im going to get a gauge, also a timeing light to make sure my timeing is good.
I'm starting to think i'm missing some relay's or wireing somewhere? Any help would help me sleep at night, thanks.
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No they do not prime when the key is set to the "ON" position but my fuel pump primes for a few seconds. I took a few spark plugs off and they were dry after multiple cranks.
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So i got around to puting together my turbo swap into 74 260z, wired it up and have spark air fuel but the injectors arn't spraying fuel. I checked all grounds and am wondering i'f it's my wireing? I have a green light on the ECU but not when canking? Took two pages of notes on the EFI bible got my meter and found the pins to be different on my ECU. Can broken injector clips be the culprit? I have the harness with the CAS in the dizzy and no droping resistors just a fuel relay and EFI relay. Any help will be greatly appriciated thank you in advance.
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I know its been a while but i was curious to what schedule 3" pipe you used? (how thick is the pipe)
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Congrats on making it on the vid and nice Z! Sounds good too.
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Look on motorsportsauto.com and blackdragonauto.com
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Awsome thank you, I will have to look over my maximum boost book to see if i overlooked this re-clocking method. From what i searched i might have to fab or modify the wastegate actuator but i hope not, also make sure the oil drain line is somewhat pointing down.
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I started my turbo build the other day and got as far as putting the l28et exhaust manifold and 300zxt turbocharger on the block. I noticed the j pipe does not quite line up with the compressor housing outlet like it should. The outlet seems to be pointing up, more than the stock turbo would.
My question
Would it be easier to plumb an intercooler and due away with the j pipe?
Hunt a used 280zxt turbocharger down and use it instead?
Or is their another way to make this work?
Thank you for your time.
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Not too long ago i started to notice a small vibration in the rear end of my Z and as i drove it more it got worse untill i thought my rear end was going to fall off!! I took a look under the rear end and found i broke my drive shaft u-joint!!! So check all moveing parts and those old brittle and cracked urathanes too. Well not urathane material but you know what i mean.
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Good thing i didn't get it after all and nice info guys, i was just keeping you all on your toes hah. Well i was hopeing i could sell it to someone with Megasquirt or SDS cheap but oh well. I'll just have to settle with the r200 diff's and 300zx tubo i found!!
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A new ignition and 2 keys can be found at Blackdragonauto.com $100. I don't know the quality of their parts, maybe someone on here dous? but i need one too so i might get it from them.
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Under the passenger side dash is a cluster of relays, it's one of those. I'll send you a pic of the acc relay mabe tommorow.
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Maybe it's common, because when i took mine off i found the same hidden freeze plug to be almost gone. Half of it was worn away but it ran ok before i replaced it.
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I have the late 260z and can't find springs for it. MSA only sells springs for the early models like everyone else.
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I think it'd be sweet to have a unique setup like a blow thru turbo. Dual webers,SU's or mukini's i think it's an oldschool setup that can create some nice hp.
Teaser pics of my 3" downpipe
in Fabrication / Welding
Posted
Its been a while but any feedback on the performance of your project would be cool. I was interested in the welds on the exhaust manifold itself due to the manifold being cast and all. Did you have any problems with cracking after welding on the manifold or after driveing it around for a while? Did you get the manifold red hot before welding and then gradually cool it over a few hours so the cracking wouldnt happen? wire feed tig or stick weld?