mtcookson

The slick top Z32's will have a stiffer chassis but the majority of the high power Z32's will have t-tops so its not really something to put too much worry into (torque wise, the VG30DETT can be a torque monster so its definitely not something you'll need to worry about). Most of the time, if you're making enough power to worry about chassis flex you'll likely already have or be putting in a roll cage which should take away any potential issues. LSD wise... both do have a viscous limited slip differential... but being viscous they offer minimal lockup and, with the mileage of most Z's, won't be working very well. If you're going to do drag racing with it you could probably just weld the diff. or you could look for an aftermarket unit (Quaiffe probably being the strongest but definitely probably the most expensive). As far as diff. ratio options... the 90-96 Q45 R200 is a 3.538:1 but uses TTZ sized flange axles, axles, and wheel hubs making for an even stronger setup than the NA Z and you should be able to bolt it in (I'm doing this in my Z since I'm going with a boosted V8 setup so I'll know shortly if it works). For the TTZ, Specialty Z carries a 4.10 ring and pinion for the R230, if you get a TTZ and want a higher ratio differential.

That'd definitely be the best way to do use M90's on a large displacement V8.

I wouldn't recommend an M90 for a V8... they're a little too small. Yes, you can make some more power with one but the smallest I would recommend for a V8 would be an M112... especially if you're wanting to put it on a 350. The supercharged Ford Cobra uses an M112 and that is only a 4.6 liter engine... just imagine how much strain that little M90 is going to be put through to supply a 5.7 liter. It'll do it, but it will likely be putting out tons of heat in the process.

Differences: TTZ: - HICAS 4 wheel steering system - earlier models used hydraulics to move the rear wheels and later models went electric. Most disable the system with a HICAS eliminator kit (simply a bar that bolts in place of the rack with arms to keep the rear wheels in place). To make things easier, you would definitely want to eliminate it. - Adjustable suspension - allows adjustment for a soft, medium, or firm ride for best handling (if I remember correctly). - Ride height is slightly higher (my guess is probably due to the suspension) - Differential and axles - Uses an R230 differential (slightly larger than a Ford 9") and has a 3.69:1 ratio. Axles are very heavy duty being 32 spline (flange axles that go into the differential are 30 I believe). - Gauge cluster has a boost gauge - 250mm clutch/flywheel setup (shouldn't matter for a swap though) NA Z: - R200 differential with 4.08:1 ratio. Smaller unit than the TTZ with smaller axles but are still said to be nearly bullet proof. If you're going with an NA V8 setup, this will likely be the differential you want unless you're going for a performance and economy setup. - 240mm clutch/flywheel setup (again, not very important for a swap) - Slight lighter than a TTZ - Available without t-tops, but are very hard to find... I want one baaaaaaaaad I'm doing a hybrid Z32 as well and I recommend going the NA Z route. They're pretty easy to find and much cheaper than the TTZ. Should also be cheaper to insure as well. That's all I can think of at the moment. Good luck with the swap!

For those that need a visualization, I made something similar when trying to figure out the VH45 pipe setup and it tends to help a lot. I'm not an SBC guy so hopefully this is right. This is basing off of the firing order and cylinder placement I found online for a 350 Chevy.

Yeah, that VQ40 is pretty sweet. I would definitely enjoy messing with one of those. The Armada comes with a 3.36 or 2.94 R230 that's even beefier than the TTZ R230.

The only downside to the Frontier 6-speed is the first gear is pretty much a granny gear, which would probably be worthless on a car depending on the differential ratio used.

Yeah, there's a bunch of Z32 5-speeds all over the place. I picked one up with a 3 month warranty for $250 in Chicago.

Supposedly the 6-speed isn't as strong as the Z32 5-speed. As far as most boost setups go, the wider gearing of the 5-speed would be better anyway. The 5-speed also has a lower ratio overdrive than the 6-speed does (.752 5th gear compared to a .794 6th gear).

VQ40DE shares the same bell housing design as the VQ35HR and I think the VQ37. The VQ35DE has the older pattern. The VK45/56 doesn't have the same pattern as the VQ40/35HR. We were looking into it over at NICO and found out that someone screwed up pretty bad in that article. This adapter plate is for the VK56 (starter on top). They say its for a 5-speed but the bolt pattern looks more like the newer 6-speeds. http://www.wilcap.com/webdoc2.htm

155 hp and 160 lb. ft. torque for the KA-DE... close enough though

Personally, I would always take a turbo over a supercharger. They're much more efficient which means more power. Centrifugal (Vortech, ProCharger, etc.) - high efficiency but is limited to linear boost, which means no peak boost till redline and therefore only high peak numbers. Roots (Eaton) - terribly inefficient but extremely reliable. instant boost, sometimes falling off at redline if the unit is on the small side. The roots is technically not even a compressor but actually a blower... it literally pushes the air into the intake manifold so fast that the air compresses in the intake. Screws (Whipple, Lysholm) - my personal favorite supercharger and the only one i would consider over a turbo. very efficient, instant boost, tons of power... but still suffers from parasitic losses that all s/c's have (due to being driven off of the crank itself). I don't believe these are quite as reliable as a roots but still a better choice for making power. Plus, they sound wicked. Do a video search for Kenne Bell Cobras and you'll see what I mean. (Original Whipples were really just a Lysholm supercharger but the new ones are supposed to be even more efficient than the Lysholms) I still prefer the sound of a turbo myself and the overall higher efficiency. They're just superior in my opinion.

Tons of VQ's out there. Go to http://www.car-part.com and put in 1995 Maxima and it will pull up all similar VQ30's. If you want a VQ35 you'll have to search for 02+ Maxima's or 350Z etc.

Definitely a big width difference. One thing to mention to those interested, you will find quite a few more aftermarket parts for the DOHC VG's than you will the SOHC VG's. Going the SOHC VG route requires a lot of DIY work for just about any performance aspect of it... but its still a lot of fun regardless. In the end... you can't really go wrong with either engine. They're both Nissan VG's which simply means they're both badass.

With the variable valve timing it should. If you were to build a race engine that technically only needed to run within a certain RPM range, either engine would do really. In the end, the VG30D should be good for more power as it should be able to flow a lot more air with the DOHC heads. Oddly enough though, so far the most powerful N.A. VG I've seen is a VG30E... but it costs more than $10k to get a hold of. The DET is definitely not a bad choice, especially since they're probably a dime a dozen down under. Very rarely you'll find a good deal on one in the U.S. and even if you do, it won't include an ECU and wiring harness. I got incredibly lucky on two counts when I found a DET for $500 and picked up a Tomei tuned ECU for $50 or so. Wiring harness I could probably get from a Z32 but I have so many VG30E's laying around that I just like using those. A little more compact and a little lighter.

That will use a regular transfer case that likely bolts to the transmission and runs a small driveshaft to the front differential. With no center differential though it won't work like the AWD system. Here's an Audi transaxle. This particular one is FWD but the AWD version will basically be the same with a rear output shaft. This would set the engine pretty far forward but would be one of the better AWD setups as far as keeping everything symmetrical.

Pretty sure all grounds coming out of the ECU are black.

Generally, most AWD transmissions I've seen push the engine forward unless you do something like offset to the side, go through the oil pan, etc.

Just so there's no confusion, the VG30E(T) can be made to rev to 8k as well. With proper head porting, maybe some bottom end balancing, and definitely cams made for it you could do it.

Looks real good! This setup is where a true intercooler is used. When you have a cooler between two compressors (the turbo and s/c in this case) it is considered an intercooler. The cooler after the s/c, between it and the engine, is called an aftercooler (technically every single turbo and s/c setup with a cooler between it and the engine is called an aftercooler, but is labeled incorrectly as an intercooler) . Just a little tidbit of info that not many people know about.

I believe its simply an on/off switch. There's an actuator that pushes a "button" on the VTC assembly which allows oil pressure to build up and causes the timing change. Once off, oil flows through and timing changes back. Very simple.

I have a busted up Z31 but I'm selling it. Hoping to find a nice one down the road to modify... though, I have a Infiniti M30 which is kind of like a luxury Z31 2+2.

Its been quite a few years since I saw the SS in the JY... I bet the idiots crushed it by now.

Yup, 1988 only. Was all white, even the wheels and had Recaro seats... tried buying some of the Recaros out of a junk yard SS but the assholes wouldn't let me... probably a good thing though because they were pretty weathered.

Yup, use an early Z31 lower manifold or you might also be able to use a 85-88 Maxima lower or 90-92 Infiniti M30 lower. I believe those are all top feed. The early Z will likely be the most common and easiest to get.