mtcookson

The block thickness of the VH is actually very little to no thicker at all. I just used a finger gauge (pinched the aluminum block, then the iron block ) and the aluminum block definitely didn't seem thicker at all. They get a lot of the strength from webbing on the block, like GSRacing mentioned. Rods and crank of both engines are forged. I think the VH actually has slightly smaller rods though (I think I've heard they're like SR20 rods).

Going by airflow, the first map is definitely not a 35 map but the second map may be very, very close. The ~52 lbs/min in the first map roughly equals .42 kg/sec and Holset rates the HX35 at .46 kg/sec, which is closer to 60 lbs/min like in the second map. Also, the first map seems awful inefficient for a 35, the 79% of the second map would make much more sense to me.

Might try the MS forum: http://forums.hybridz.org/forumdisplay.php?f=88

That's something I'd definitely do.

Personally, I would just grab another VG. They are so cheap anymore that it would be cheaper to get one in good condition than to rebuild one in most cases.

Bought some weld-els from them once. Had no issues at all.

Here are the two guys that I know have used a MS on a VG30 setup: http://z-toys.com/megasquirt/ http://www.blozup.com/ms.php I can't remember what route they took there but you may check those out and see if you get any ideas.

I don't have anything to add but if you end up not wanting to use it I'll gladly buy it off of you. Need one for my VH45 project.

I think it would basically be like the clutch switch, so that the ecu knows that the clutch is pressed in.

On the sides its likely less (definitely around the frame rails) but front to back it has much more room... you could do a pretty sweet turbo setup in front of the engine with that setup.

Actually, with everything he has included in that price I don't think its really too bad of a deal at all. Likely couldn't get everything listed from a salvage yard for that price very easily.

The main problem with the Pathy manifold is that it is very tall. To fit in a Z31 you have to basically modify the hood. One guy just put some washers between the hinges and the hood in the rear to lift the rear up allowing enough clearance. Other than that you'd have to do some sort of hump, scoop, or cowl "induction". Personally, I'd go for the 2nd gen Maxima manifold. MGP (Molten Gold Performance) can modify them to flow even better than stock and stock are actually pretty close to the Pathfinder plenum. With the Maxima plenum you actually mount it pointing out front, which can make routing piping much easier. http://www.redz31.com/turbofaq/mod.plenum.html http://www.redz31.com/pages/plenums.html

Not a problem. I wasn't too worried about it as the info is mostly speculation since Holset won't release any maps and its actually a map Garrett has on their site. Just one of those "here's an interesting one" things.

I think I may have made a post with an HX35 flow chart but I don't know if it ever got approved or not. I have that HY35 chart, though I'm not completely convinced yet that its the right one.

No power at all? There should be a fuel pump signal wire coming from the ECU. I'd check for voltage there. From there it should run to a relay so I'd check voltage at the relay before and after it. I don't have a Z31 wiring diagram handy so I don't know if that's exactly how its setup but I'm sure it is.

Heck, I've been driving around a Z31 Turbo with a Maxima VG30E and the Z turbo setup on stock boost... that thing is an absolute blast. I can chirp third gear and that's not even at full power due to a boost leak. 15 psi, aftercooled, on a 9:1 engine would be absolutely awesome. I definitely agree, it'll feel like a completely new car.

Yup, here's an excellent graph showing the flow vs. pressure ratings of various pumps: (note, if the voltage was upped on the Z32 pump it would likely flow even more just like the other pumps)

Upper, lower, or both? You might be able to modify a VG30E(T) lower to accept a DE(TT) upper, but it would definitely take a lot of work. I definitely wouldn't try messing with a DE(TT) lower due to the differences between the SOHC and DOHC heads. In the end it would probably just be best to modify the stock ones. There are plenty of guys making 400-500+ on modified VG30E(T) plenums.

I wouldn't stop at the muffler, get a 3" inch exhaust system from the turbo to the muffler and you should see some impressive gains, especially when/if upgrading the turbo down the road.

I wouldn't worry about the lower redline... a low revving, high power engine will be much more reliable than a high revving, high power engine.

Actually I know for sure it has a higher deck than the VQ35 so its likely the stroke that makes up the displacement difference and the lower redline. That means with boost it would likely have a very broad torque curve, which would be very fun. 9.7:1 is somewhat high... but doesn't mean you can't run boost. You could run low boost and still make quite a bit of power, just supply it with enough fuel and it won't have any problems. A V8 would definitely be nice but I'd personally take a V6 over an inline.

Yeah, those new VQ40's are pretty sweet. With some boost they would be absolutely insane. I've not really seen anyone mod any yet myself but I've not been on many Nissan truck sites so I don't know what all they have. I wouldn't think 400 hp would be all that hard to accomplish though. The VQ's are stout engines and being designed for a truck, I would think the VQ40 would have beefier internals than the VQ35, stock for stock.

Yup, you got it. The VG30E(T) is definitely an underdog engine... an incredible engine yet not many know about it's potential.

The only thing I'd use from a TT would be the rods. Unless you really mess something up, you aren't going to break the VG30E(T) crank, regardless of it being cast. Piston wise... I wouldn't personally use TT pistons as they'll put you at a lower compression ratio than rated due to the combustion chamber of the VG30E(T) being larger. You can get custom pistons made for very reasonable rates anymore if you want an extreme build. The DE(TT)'s do sound damn sexy though. I was very surprised by the sound of my DE, it just sounded awesome when running that thing to red line.

Interesting... guess I've never had a rotor quite that warped before.