240hoke
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Posts posted by 240hoke
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I recently finished taking my rear end apart and checking everything out. I ended up not liking the shimmed diff for the street. The diff had serious chatter, and caused the car to understeer. When going around tight corners I could feel the rear end just pushing me. I removed all the shims, dropping it back down to about 40ft/lbs of breakaway. I am now using Redline NS oil with additional friction modifier. I am very happy with the results.
I honestly dont know how many miles I put on hte car since I added the clutches, I would guess around 5K or so. I didnt see any significant wear or galling at all, just the blue surface has worn a bit.
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Id drive it, but I wouldnt ever buy one....that color combination and package in general looks terrible.
I loved the last model with the black on orange.
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I ran a good bit of timing advance and alot of fuel at idle. I believe I was at 20deg adv with 10.5:1 fuel idling at around 800 or so.
Ran pretty smooth.
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Just cut the spacers down in between the end links to change the over all height and it should clear. Mine clears fine, but I am using the 240z rear mounted bar....might can switch to that if the front bar doesn't work out.
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Haha...I kinda agree.
They are not the smartest choice of wheel by far for 'performance'. But for me as a owner of a set of Wat's I just love the look and I personally don't think there is a better wheel for the car..style wise.
However In the future I will probably be replacing my Wats with something I can actually buy a decent set of tires for... 17's.
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Anybody...pleaaaassseeee
I guess Ill have to track down a manual or just put em back together. Going with position 1 makes them the shortest and I don't feel any binding so Ill prolly go with that.
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Kuhmo Ectsa XS 265/45/r16 (168):
BFG G-Force Sport 255/50/r16 ($118):
You can also get Victoracer V700's which might be okay for a non DD.
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Yea looks really nice! I love how you molded the front air dam out to match.
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Just thought I would through a link in here to my old splitter thread. Looks very similar to yours.
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110961&highlight=splitter
If anything I thought it made the car more unstable....I need to bolt it back on and do some more testing though.
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Hancook Ventus 245/45/r16. They do not get the job done.
I see they now have a few 265's out there. I will prolly move to a 265 rear with my next set of tires and maybe most to a 245/50 in the front.
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Just call a freight company. I always use SouthEastern freight lines. They all work together to network from place to place. It would probably be pretty cheap to ship...although auto parts get marked up a bit as they are a different freight class.
Im guessing it would be 150-250.
Always helps to dropoff and pick up at a hub to....will save you alot of monies.
They will need to know the size and weight and freight class (just tell them auto parts). you will have to put it on a pallet.
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Okay Guys,
I recently rebuilt my axles, but used the wrong kind of grease
So before I put to many miles on them I decided to repack them with some Redline Moly CV-2 grease. Needless to say this is not a fun job to do twice.
Anyway I think I got it right the first time, but I wanted to double check which way the inner center part goes on the axle:
Position 1:
Position 2:
I originally had them in position 1.
Thanks for any help.
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Oh make sure whoever buys this thing doesnt use a SSAutochrome manifold, it will probably crack.
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I saw a supra with one of those the other day.
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and will be proven in the field in actual use... end of topic
Ken I honestly could care less what you do with you car, as it is yours. But this is the root of the problem and why I even responded in the first place. Just because it works for you does not mean that it will work for everybody. I fear that if somebody has the same issue with a mazworxs adapter and they replicate what you have done they will ruin a bellhousing..or worse a transmission.
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You need to find some new engineer friends (perhaps make me one
) or maybe they need some more details to make an educated decision. I will restate what I said before.....
The cast holes on the stock bellhousing are not machined nor do they have any type of tolerance with respect to a pattern or themselves. The cast holes are there to allow the bolts to provide a clamping force...there will be excess 'play' by design due to casting variances. The factory dowel pin holes are the only features that are machined precisely and are the sole features that align the bellhousing. They also take any shear loading that may possibly exist. This is NOT my opinion, this is the way it is. If you ream a factory hole you are left with a reamed hole with the exact same tolerance as the cast holes all you did was change the diameter. Now if you were to know the bolt pattern (located by the main bearing center line) and you REMACHINED the bolt holes to accept shoulder bolts...then yes they would be a feasible alternative.....Im guesing this is what your machinist did. However this is a ton of work and totally impractical when a dowel pin will suffice. Additionally as I stated before a shoulder bolt is not ment to be used in that fashion.
You're free to disagree, if you think cast tolerances are good enough for your adapter then go for it...I just wouldn't recommend it to others. Ill leave it at that.
You will not have any of these issues with my adapter they are machined right and have SS dowel pins that 'perfectly' align the bellhousing.
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IMO, Dowel pins are the ONLY way to go. Aligning a transmission off of reamed cast holes is not good practice and will NOT work for every bellhousing unless they are indexed and machined to match the adapter. Shoulder bolts are also for location and shear loading, not really tension and compression, as a transmission adapter sees.
I would send the adapter back before I used shoulder bolts....period. if it doesn't line up there is something wrong and it needs to be fixed.
As for the starter hole, if you use a gear reduction 280zx starter you harderly have to notch anything out of the transmission and you have a very small opening that would be easy to cover.
As for the machined bellhousing vs. 1 pc. I dont think that there is anything wrong with the current adapter and machining the bellhousing however for most people not having to machine the bellhousing would make things ALOT easier for many people.
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Yea shhhhhh, keep it on the DL. I already have a beautiful shifter relocator as well!
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That adapter looks TERRIBLE!! I have never seen and up close picture of one...not too impressed...
Shoulder bolts are NOT a fix for alignment in my opinion. You cannot properly align something based off of a cast reamed hole because the hole pattern is not controlled to any specifice tolerance (in fact many are pretty bad off). The only way to use a shoulder bolt would require useing a end mill and re-cut the holes off of a known pattern. The only accurately machined holes on the bell housing are the dowel pin holes. For my adapter a original dowel pin hole is used as a datum and then the other one is machined off of it. The instructions are in the download section of this site for those that are curious.
My adapters have several advantages over the mazworks unit:
1.) Stronger ~.75" thick
2.) Beautiful machining!, individually cut to parallel.
3.) New SS dowel pins with instructions for machining
4.) All high grade metric hardware
5.) All holes are now heli coiled
6.) Tumbled and Anodized
7.) Strong shifter relocater
I still have 8 spots left on the list for the current run...listed in the group buy: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=151039
Here is a high res picture of my adapter: http://gallery.voodoo-people.com/album926/IMG_3285?full=1
The only thing that I would change is making a 360 degree unit with a crank spacer so no machining is required. However cost would go up a good bit and I have yet to have a complaint about my adapters. I am planning to start work on a Z33 6 sped no machine adapter in the near future. I have a block and a trans I just gotta get to measuring.
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Phil your car looks absolutely sick....congrats
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Dave if you ever choose to sell you car for the above mentioned price please give me a call
When I talked to Hagarty they said around 20-25K shouldnt be a problem for a nicely restored/modified 240z. I never finished up with the deal though because I still had a ticket on my record, I should be good to go now and plan on signing up with them....sounds like you have had a reasonably good experience.
I have started driving my car almost daily and I am afriad something like this will happen and Ill just have to part out the car since I carry allstate.
Good luck with everything, sounds like its going to be fixed right.
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Well .633 is pretty close to 5/8" (.625) which you can buy from summit for 60 bucks a pair. Here is a link to a set on Summit, you can get them from Jegs to:
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Bristol was a lot of fun to watch. I cant imagine trying to keep a 850hp in check on that little track packed full of cars...
Marcos seems to be a cool guy listening to his interviews and stuff.
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A sexy clearance picture.....
This is with a 3/16" stack of washers. I will be running 1/4" Baer spacers.
I decided to bite the bullet and buy some "nice" lug nuts. Those are KICS R26 lugs. I have had issues with galling on aluminum wheels, my girlfriends miata wheels got galled bad when the dealership used an impact to tighten the lugs. I inspected the seats on my wheels this go around and noticed a small amount of galling and I usually used a torque wrench. These KICS lugs have floating seats that remain stationary when you tighten....I liked the design and think that they should cure any galling issues. Oh and they also look good
) or maybe they need some more details to make an educated decision. 
AZC Install with Watanabe's and ARP studs
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
Okay I finally got everything finished up a couple weekends ago. Heres what I did for shimming:
I decided to shim the rotor since this to me was easier to do. I bought several different sizes of stainless steel shims from Mcmaster (.001,.002,.004,and .005). I then cut them down a bit so they didnt stick out from the hat.
I then set up my dial indicator as close as I could to the hat. I found the place with the least run out and marked it as 0, then as I spun it I wrote the runout at each bolt.
I then installed all the shims at once. It was really close on the first try and with a couple adjustments I got the rotor to about .0015in of runout. My measuring setup wasnt any more accurate then that so I was pretty happy.
I ended up buying the Bear 1/4" wheel spacers. I had to have the center of the front turned out a bit to clear the hubs.
I also went through my rear suspension "while I was at it" and put in long ARP studs in the back as well. I also replaced the hex head caliper mount bracket bolts with socket head ones....so they actually can be tightened and torqued properly.
Anyway the brakes are very smooth. Im still working out a few kinks though...my Drivers front is locking up way before my passengers front. Im hoping this is just a bleeding issue as I bleed them real quick to make it to auofair. Next time I am home Ill rebleed thoroughly and then see how she does. hopefully then I can bed the pads in and see how these baby's are.