jack46
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Posts posted by jack46
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Condolences.
I thought it was boost that made my optis fail, I struggle with the Opti and wish there was a ‘cure’. I do seal the opti cap with RTV to avoid water in it, but that seems to help very little…
Well at least they covered the replacement for you. The cost is not that important to me as much as the time to replace, down time and the lack of feeling secure with an opti.
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UNREAL!
Great job I can't imagine the feeling of a ride that quick, definately beyond my comprehension!
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I like how Seafoam works I have had excellent results with that product in a few engines I run it one can per ~5 gallons. Glad you found they are activating.
Good luck
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I would NOT apply 24 volts. I sold a set for a 93 LT1 and the guy buying them checked the injectors with 12 volts and they clicked when power was applied.
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When my opti went bad last summer there was corrosion inside the connector and that was all bluish/greenish. It was probably just water mixed with the corrosion.
Thats my hope just methanol has been a problem. The stock Throttle body isn't sealed and meth kills the tps under boost so I am paranoid now. I just can't think of a path for the meth to get into the opti I want to vent the opti from intake with a one way valve but this has me concerned. BUT before TB I don't think there is enough vacuum to perform any real venting.
The first stage meth comes on >3 psi (second >5) so valve should be shut off long before meth flows.
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I pulled the opti and found the vacuum line had melted shut...so I had no vent on the opti and had a couple drops of water inside...
What is odd the water looked like methanol (blue and I blend washer fluid and meth) could the corrosion turned the water blue? The meth couldn't have sprayed in because the vacuum point was closed off and the point of vacuum was other side of meth injection on the intake tube and has a one way value that closes when I blow on it.
I am puzzled the fluid also was not flammable and didnt smell like methanol but the metal coverwas rusted and I have never seen that before on any opti even without a vent...
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This OPTI stuff. I don't know. Expertst tell me that I need to get a MSD opti and now I am told that they are junk. They have 4 screws that hold the cap on instead of 2 for the GM OPTI. The problem is suppose to be theat moisture gets in and corrodes the contacts. So I bought a MSD on Ebay, got it for $124 including shipping. It is out of the box but it looks like it has never been installed. For the money I thought I would take the chance. They are $568 new. I had to fight for it on ebay though. What do you all mean when you say your OPTI blows out? What blows or is it burns out?
Larry
There are many opti failure modes one is moisture that can be handled with sealing IMO. I have not had that problem lately (~4 years). Mine blows the sensor for the lo/hi resolution. I hear that primarily is from the high voltage arching. With boost I run a much hotter spark.
I NEVER had an opti fail with deltaq NA. BUT even with msd coils on deltaq it wouldn't fire my system at higher boosts. I am gong to come up with a better venting setup for mine and go with new rebuilt from warranty since no one talks well of msd opti their cap and rotors seem great.
Also I should emphasize I drive mine on trips OFTEN. I start it and run 250 miles so not usual drag strip boosted LT1 cars
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Is water injection safe?
Yes
But ANY mod done wrong can hurt. If you don't control the injection you can hydro lock a motor. Any kit installed correctly is safe.
Will water injection make more horse power?
Water injection primarily cools the air charge and combustion chamber helping prevent detonation. Both help a motor run more timing which often helps a motors performance.
Injection is MOST beneficial for boosted motors, but it can help naturally aspirated motors.
Many use windshield washer fluid -20F, but I doubt you will find that where you live. Methanol and water is often used for octane and cooling.
I use methanol and water injection and it allows me to run higher boost with more timing. I run 14 psi and 27 degrees timing. I added a second stage and expect to pick up more. I was injecting M7 now M4 and M5 and engine wants more.
Hope that helped
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I have two deltaqs work great on na and low boost. I will likely sellone and use other on NA Z.
I had no luck with turbo and ~8 psi but ran fine with supercharger and 10 psi. I have alot more boost than that I ran 18+ with MSD coil and box and no problems. The setup was a total beast, but it would tear up everything so I turned it down.
Iam leaning away from turbo Z I have a twin Z and a dd boost with opti simply sucks.
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That is my gut feeling...
How do others handle boost and opti? I think that is the problem the hot spark kills the opti
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The dreaded opti..I have a problem with my opti. It is warrantied but the last one blew after 6 weeks and even if free the tow bills are mounting this year.
Is a billet MSD opti worth the money? I have an msd coil and run boost so spark is hot in the cap and the car is driven. It gave out yesterday on return 300 mile trip. If $500 opti fixes it I will spend the money, but I don't want to spend money on a shiny part that doesn't work
Thanks
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I also have a 260Z that I will soon begin. I been reading and collecting parts. Picked up my Toyota brake calipers today. In the JTR book it shows the drivers side with a rearward dump on the exhaust manifold. Will a straight down clear with no issues. Sorry if this is already discussed somewhere else. Thanks, Tracy.
I tried LT1 and a few manifolds a friend had at his shop...none would clear on the drivers side.
I converted mine in 1987 and used mounts from a 68 Nova I think so have no idea where the manual would put it. I don't know when the manual came out...
I bought a set of the ram horns from above they will fit but I think I will simply leave the Z supercharged with headers.
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...Since you can get 40psi with your fingers, the first thing I would do is try another gauge. If possible, one you know is working right. Another possibility would be to test your gauge with compressed air, using a compressor with a gauge you figure is about right.
jt
I don't believe it is possible to turn the oil pump by hand and achieve 40psi...the guage is wrong.
SBC can often have 80 psi start up cold and barely get to 60psi when at operating temps
Good luck let her rip keep RPMs up if non roller cam for ~20 minutes
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I got the manifold today looks good. It will need some trimming to fit an LT1 head, but seems fine. I will know this weekend if it will fit. It seems like it probably will the flange they sell for the 9300327 is flat, but I think I can work with it.
Thanks again on the leads I will post progress maybe get pics of manifold on mockup this weekend. The main concern is the drivers side, but the manifold I think can be flipped and used on either side.
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a 307 is better than a 305 or a 283. A little cam, block hugger headers, better intake and carb will make a good runner. 260hp/300 ftlbs of torque would be an easy number to hit with a cam in the 210 to 215 degree range (at 0.050").
This is about the same power you can get out of your current L28 with a stock turbo with 10 psi of boost and intercooler.
I mostly agree as long as you build it mild it will be a good performer (~210 cam) I think you can easilly go too large on the cam with a 307. But IF you have to rebuild the 307 move to a 350 simply a cost thing. A mild 350 will out run a great 307, but a mild 307 is a good choice if already built and owned.
Some day when all the bugs are worked out of your setup you can always put in a 350.
Good luck
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Seems to be a no brainer really the corvette at $140 shipped and I can buy the reducer and cut it off and stay 2 1/2". I think a 45 degree mandrell bend from the manifold should take the exhaust to above the oil filter and avoid the steering column.
I wish I had my Z here....oh well this is definately a great find for me since I would pay ~$10o shipped for 2" ram style manifold. $40 more and I get 2 1/2" so definately worth it.
i was here
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EXCELLENT find. I will look closely at home but they seem EXACTLY like the ones I was going to buy BUT 2 1/2"!
Definately what I prefer since it will aloow more flow and keep it one size so I could buy all 2 1/2" mandrell pipe!
Edit does that use a flat connection or donut? I am referring to the flange section....either way that is EXACTLY what I think I need
I think the manifold is the same for old and new style exhaust ports.
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I understand this is a crap shoot...Like I said with the motor in I can verify LT1 manifolds won't work with my setup...IF the engine is against fire wall the LT1's MIGHT work in another setup...
I will look at the link you sent when I get home. The Ram horns MIGHT work until I have them in hand and put them on the car I really don't know. I HATE using a 2" manifold, but since it will be low HP <450 RWHP I think they will be ok...
My plan is to leave it 2" in engine bay then go to a Y with a 3" to turbo. I might expand to 2.5" after engine bay I want to minimize all the piping required and 2" and 2.5" complicates it...The y I will use has 2.5 to 3" it is cheap stamped steel but I used them before and they do flow just not a small package.
Thanks again I hope to get to the car in a few weeks. I have the car at my other house so that will lengthen the process :>(
A side note do you happen to have an aluminum headed cam for an LT1? I need to find one
Thanks
Jack
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I put a motor in the Z to check and LT1 manifolds will not work on my Z. I will buy the Ram horns and I think I will be able to get them to work. The steering column was the problem with the LT1 manifolds the Ram horns will need to have the pipe tucked either between the steering column and the block OR the frame rail
Thanks again
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Well its worth a shot to try the ram horns. This is what I am running on my LT1. They are still tight with the steering shaft but they will work. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DATZ_Headers.html
I will consider the options. The Ram manifolds hold heat, but they have small exhaust pipe 2" and the 2.5" are EXPEN$IVE. Never easy. I may just stay with the headers I have since they seem ok...
Thanks for your inputs and suggestions. Always good to discuss with a neutral person to ensure options are considered.
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If you're talking about the "new" LT1 93 -96 then I don't think the ram horns are going to fit. The LT1 heads have angled plugs for one thing. I put ram horns to replace the rusted out long tube headers the PO had on my old 350 engine and killed its performance, too much cam. I also don't think the drivers side stock LT1 manifold will fit in our cars, it will hit the steering shaft.
A friend uses the Ram horns on his 280ZX with aluminum angle plug LT1 heads. BUT his car is far different than mine to say the least....and wonder if they will clear a 260 Z
I know for NA the Ram horns would be terrible, but I am doing a rear mount turbo so I think they will be ok...I am trying for low power ~450 RWHP is all...
I was afraid the LT1 would have trouble on the drivers side. Like I said I have headers, but they are old and well headers on a rear mount are painful with loss of heat and they will leak. Manifolds won't make the power, but hold heat and 450 RWHP is low so even Ram horns could be ok...
If I must I will use headers and simply plan on getting a new pair when I blow them. What do the headers run these days seems they used to be ~$300
Thanks for the reply
Edit yes it is an electronic LT1 with 4L60E tranny.
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I have a 74 260 with an LT1 in it. I have I think competition headers now, but want to go with manifolds. Specifically I want to try ‘Ram horn’ I saw a pair with 2.5†and wondered if they will fit. I want to use them because I will be putting a turbo on and just don’t want the hassles of headers with turbos.
I couldn’t find anything with the search. It would seem they will fit but want the large 2.5†if they won’t fit I would try the LT1 manifolds, or the 2†Ram horns.
Thanks
Jack
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Yes it is an LT1 and I have the factory tune with an FMU hahaaaa!! I know, I know I just wanted to get it on the road and now look where thats got me.. I am working on getting a short block right now so I can do the works to it.. Splayed mains, h-beam rods, JE pistons, forged crank (although this will be a long process) and I will surely have someone tune this for me as I understand tuning and its concept just not patient enough... Thanks again
We ALL want to 'get by' just pointing this out so next guy wil listenand maybe avoid some of the hasle...but he won't he will believe he wil be cautius and lucky
An LT1 rods and crank take ALOT. A friend has the stock rods, crank and has been making ~650 RWHP for a few yrs. He loses pistons not the crank. BTW that is stock 2 bolt he doesn't even use studs.
I use studs but stock rods and crank with 12 psi and no problems. DON'T forget new rod bolts. The stock rods MUST have new bolts then worth the risk as I said mine was in a Z his is in a 4500 lbs truck so it sees loads
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should be able to handle around 6-8 psi on stock internals but as you can see timming is not my friend...
I always hear 6 - 8 psi on stock pistons but have not seen anyone have one last. I lost a set of stock with 8 psi and so did a friend. Timing and 'good' tune will help them last but ...
As an additional data point a friend has a Z06 running intercooled 8 psi WITH Methanol and professionally tuned on dyno. He is huffing and puffing and has similiar compression in 2 cylinders. This is after only ~5,000 miles.
Boost is deadly replace them with a good set of forged piston and immediately have a tune in place that lowers timing and allows more timing to be removed when/if needed.
Don't forget to adjust the minimum timing if this is an LT1.
Sorry about your loss but you will be fine
Good luck
Jack
Wow another opti gone bad....Grrrrrrrrrr
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
It seems like the adage if you have a good one it lasts a long time is true. But once they are rebuilt they just don't seem to be worth spit...