liveforeverZ

Thanks, I'm on it already.

Does anyone know how to rebuild a fuel pump (electric in line) on a 280z. The motor in mine will turn on, but it won't pump. I can't seem to figure out how to get the thing apart either. I've taken the top off, and gotten to the part you can see spinning, but can't get the body of the pump off.

It appears it was the starter solenoid. I took off the starter to bench test it (which it passed), but found a big crack in the solenoid - when I inspected further, it was cracked all the way thru and the bolt for the power side was just barely touching the terminal. I held it tight while someone turned over the car and, gloriously, no more electrical short. However, with the good news, theres always bad - the fuel pump still has no power going to it. Took off the fuel pump to bench test it and found something off. When you take the top off and pull out those five very small cylinders, the motor works perfect in the pump...as soon as you put the five cylinders back in, the motor wont start. Any ideas? Also, I think I'm gonna start with the relay to see why theres no electricity back there.

I'm gonna check the links, fuses, and recheck grounds today. Maybe I'm missing a couple of the ground spots - will try to find. With some luck, hopefully I'll find the problem.

Hi, thanks to all so far. The battery is old but I brought it to autozone today for a check and full charge. It checked out good and took a full charge. Weird things are definitely happening. The volt gauge in the car reads 12 volts (red charging light on) when the car is in "acc", when you turn to run it goes to 8 volts but still, all electric work. When you crank it it goes to -4. After sitting 5 minutes, it will be back to 12 volts "red charging light on". I've run the voltage meter and it is always 12 volts. Would anything so far result in no electricity to the fuel pump? The power line to the pump has 0 volts on the meter.

The connections are clean and tight. The starter was replaced 8 years ago, along with the fuel pump - since then the car has been garaged, and only driven about 5 miles.

I'm having weird electrical problems. When the ignition is on accessory, everything in the car works - as soon as I try to start it, all the electrical in the car turns off. The battery is fully juiced. This problem started with the fuel pump. It wasn't turning on, so I went to test continuity at the pump - nothing at all - a big 0 volts. Now, every time I try to start it, there is a click/bang from the front of the car (starter side), and all the electricity goes dead. Any ideas, its killing me!

Bought a new slave at the local Napa for 12$. All is well. Thanks a bunch for the posts.

Found it. The boot hadnt crumbled out completely. It was jammed up into the bellhousing. The crumbling rubber was from the slave boot. Thanks for your help however. I'm sure I'll need it again.

Thanks guys, Its the boot that covers the lever that the slave cylinder rod connects to coming out of the tranny.

I asked this question in my clutch post, but figured I'd open it up for more views. My withdrawal lever dust boot crumbled off, and no one at the parts desks seem to know what one is. I can't find it anywhere online either - could it be listed as something different?

Thanks guys, it turned out to be the slave. As soon as I went under, it looked like the rod was bent, so I took it off, and not only was it bent, but it was stuck shut. Ordered one from Napa today for 12$, gonna put it in tomorrow. While I was taking off the slave, the withdrawal lever dust boot crumbled off. I've called everyone and can't find one - is it possibly listed as something else? No one at the parts desks seem to know what I'm talking about when I say withdrawal lever.

Thanks, will do. 280z service manual is on the floor and open to slave cylinder.

Thanks. Car has been sitting for an awful long time. Gonna try the slave first. Brake and clutch systems are always my downfall and least confident areas. Would a bad slave keep the pedal high and not let it depress?

Hey guys, The clutch on my 280 is frozen stiff. It moves maybe a cm or 2. Any ideas?

I run test and tunes with it, top speed in it thus far is 138...on falken h's. So they didn't blow up, I'd just like something with a bit more room to play.

Hey guys, Just picked up a '76 280 with 14" magnesium minilites. The tires on them are 205/70/14, but I can only find tires available with an "H" speed rating. Does anyone know of different 14" sizes that can fit on these, and under the Z, that might come in a higher rating? The "H"'s are only good up to 120 or so, and I need at least 140.

I'm in Rhode Island. Looking for 240z,260z,280z, or 300zx (90 - 93) for sub 2k. I'm willing to do a bit more for the 300zx. Needs work is perfect. No frame rot. Must run.

Very true, however , it makes it harder when the junkyard down the road wants 1200 obo for 4 z's. One 260z that is running with automatic, three in various states of disrepair, but all very good parts cars - all full interior and drivetrains. UGH! Anybody in for a group buy?

Ok - I found a couple of Z's. One is a 72 240z. The other is a 75 260z. The woman only wants $250 a car, but they have to go together. She lives 5 hours from me, in snow valley. Right now, the cars are covered in 4 feet of snow. I saw them before they weren't however. The 260z was restored probably 10 - 15 years ago. It was white originally, w/ white interior. NOw its light metallic blue with fender flares, window vents, and draglite rims. The hood is completely rusted out, as is the roof, and the drivers side fender. The interior is in pieces and the gauges are gone. It does have a completely rebuilt L24 in it w/ 0 miles! (still needs the electrical hooked up) The frame is overall good with some questionable areas. The 240 was brown on brown (the worst other than white on white lol) It has comes with the 260's blown motor and 4 speed. Frame is questionable at best. All sheet metal is great however. The interior is there but bad - I could use the gauges to go into the 260 though. It has fiberglass fenders, but overall it is in ROUGH shape. What do you guys think - should I take the 20 hours round trip for the two (one at a time) and use the 240 to kinda rebuild the 260, or should I forgot it, and find one in better shape.

I'm looking for a restorable 240,260, or 280 2-seater near New England. Will go to CT,MA,RI,NH,ME,VT, or Long Island. I'm a poor fellow, but Z lover! Oh, the vices that plague. It needs to be cheap, but in somewhat driveable,restorable condition (either/or) Thanks for looking.

Touche Dr_hunt, I just read that the stock boost is not, in fact , 8 lb. I must have been reading an older engine spec. However, VW quotes the 1.9 tdi at 12 lb stock boost continuous, and 17 - 18 intermittently. They will push 16 continuous and 22 intermittently with tuning, but it isn't recommended. Maybe a KO3/KO4 hybrid turbo...hmmm.

I've heard the limitations are somewhere around 300 hp / 475 lb/ft torque. But when you boost the performance that much in them, you have to make sure the bottom end is virtually bulletproof. And there are real limitations with the turbo. You can only go about 15 - 18lb boost before you need to do extensive mods. There is a guy on the tdiclub forum whose jetta 1.9tdi gets 260 hp / 400 lb/ft torque.

It can be done easily!! I've noticed a few posters on here over the months asking about diesel z's. Alot of interest after that veggie Z was posted on ebay. However, I have found a way to make a high HP veggie z with a VW 1.9 TDI. Most people get stuck on the FWD to RWD problem. Not a problem. Acme adapters make an adapter that mods the TDI up to the 5spd tranny off of a turbo Toyota Supra, which is obviously RWD. The TDI is relatively light and pushes about 110hp. Stock, that would be about as fast as the original Z, with more torque. Turn the 8lb boost up to 15lbs. Race injectors are available from most shops for the TDI, as are performance intercoolers and the standard mods. The rocketchip II for the TDI is a 40 hp/ 100lb torque gain. It can easily make 250 hp and 375 ft torque without breaking the bank or the engine.