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1FASTKINGCAB

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Posts posted by 1FASTKINGCAB

  1. I was walking around the junkyard looking for a clean VG33 core motor and stumble across a Infinity QX4 with a VG30DE engine in the cargo area. after a close inspection (as close as the wasps would let me :o ) the motor mounts look 100% identical as does the tranny bolt pattern.

     

    I know that when I ordered my flywheel clutch masters sent me one for a 90-96ZX-TT and the cranks bolt pattern was 1 bolt off but the clutch was the right diameter and the pressure plate bolted up. The QX4 had a similar looking bolt pattern.

     

    I was thinking the reason Z31 owners might not swap in the VG30DE is because the HUGE twin cam heads would interfere with the shock towers. My truck which has 98% the same frame as the QX4/pathfinder and no shocktowers.

     

    Thanks, Tom D

     

    anyone have any thoughts? I might try a swap it into my other 4cyl nissan TK.

  2. I have had problems with BW T-5's since day 1, thier main weakness is 3rd gear. If you gut a 300ZX N/A trans down to only the front half of the case/ bell hous. you can bolt in either JDM SR20DE-T guts & tail shaft which will leave you with a close ratio 5 speed W/ carbon shift forks, OR JDM FS5R30A (Skyline GT-S) guts and have a wide ratio 5 speed W/ carbon forks. mine came out of a 198x R31 GT-S

     

    Either JDM trans you will need a custom X-member/tranny mount. My drive shaft had to be cut down .5" and a R31 yoke instaled. don't know about in the Z cars though.

     

    I know peopple who install JDM SR20DE-T's in thier 240's and pickups do the oppisite. they use the JDM front half/bell and thier stock US market guts and tail shaft so they dont need to modify the X-member and drive shaft.

  3. No I don't think a To4b will fit I already have a .5" specer under the driver side motor mount, I also moved the power steering box south 1/4" and made my manifold with a 3/4" T3 flange.

     

     

    What has to happen in order to use a V trim wheel? any good place to get it done in or around Maryland?

     

     

    the current engine is getting a little long in the tooth (192k) and I would like to go with a fresh 3.3L S/C short block, 300ZXT lower intake (top feed injectors) and redone heads. I'd also like to turn it up to 15PSI(ish). It smokes when shifting and is starting to smell like oil alot more than I like. and the turbo has started to sounds like all hell is about to break loose. (hard, loud constant rush of air sound under load folowed buy loss of boost)

     

     

     

    4557.jpg

     

    My biggest clearance issue is the rag joint on the steering shaft and the snout on the P/S box. If looking straight at the comp. side if the turbo it is about 1/4" off to the south side.

  4. My turbo has started to make a odd sound and thus, I think it is time to upgrade. what turbo is a good upgrade for a basicly stock VG30 (Z31) my problem is that there in ZERO room under the hood for a physicly larger turbo. can anyone recomend a good upgrade for the stock .63A/R nissan piece? I would also like to go to a standard turbine outlet because my DP is starting to rust at the welds and needs to be replaced anyway.

     

     

     

    Thanks for input in advance,

    tom D

  5. I was thinking if you ran a cable from one W/G to the other and the off of one ran another cable to a nice place under the dash a mounted an old style bike shifter. you would then have a full manual boost controler for less than $20 The ONLY problem I see (And this is why I haven't done this) if that you could very easily crank the boost to a an insane level and blow all kinds of $hit up. But I would think if you had enough self controll (I don't) it could help alot. just replace your 5" tach with a 7" boost gauge :D

  6. Yeha, but if it sucks i'll be stuck with a $500 paper weight.

     

    what are the specs on the 280 Z's and 300ZX T3's?

     

    JGS also has the same basic package but with a T3/O4B turbo for $655 the same options at the straight T3 as far a A/R so would there be an atvantage to a T3/O4B with the same A/R? They claim full boost (7psi) on thier test car (1.8L Toyota) came at 2300-2700 RPM, is that good? I'm use to hitting full boost at around 1500-2000 RPM. but I only run 5psi daily and have similar turbo on a much bigger engine.

  7. He is at the beach this week when he comes back next monday I'll take some pics and post them here he's running 18psi at the moment. and other than the X-pipe it's stock. I wouldn't guess the car is making more than 500hp though I don't know what stock boost is and he hasn't been to a dyno yet.

     

    but he has:

    Twisted the drive shaft (1-2 shift)

    snapped pass side axle

    ripped the driver side CV joint out twice (1-2 once & 3-2 the other time)

    mangled the splines & twisted the pass side axle once (1-2 shift)

    ripped the upper torque boxes apart (1-2 shift)

    ripped the top of the main housing & diff cover off. the alloy case split in to 4 peices the op half of the housing & cover where atached to the torque boxes while the rest was left atached to the axles/ struts.

  8. The new Cobra rear end is pretty much indestrutible. There is a guy that just made it into the nines with the stock rear end and half-shafts. Wheel hop can be a problem though, because of the bushings and a few other deflection points that change the geometry. Pretty simple fix. IMO, you'd be better off doing a Vette aluminum rear end like Scottie's GNZ.

     

    He MUST have after market axles and a cast iron housing. SVT only rates the '03 cobra IRS for 400HP. my best friend has a '03 cobra with 6K miles on it his best 1/4 mile is 13.4@136MPH (spinning the whole way) with a overdrive Lightning S/C pulley and a Open X-pipe. and he is on his 3rd set of axles, 2nd set of torque boxes, 2nd Alloy case and 2nd drive shaft. it breaks going into 2nd gear EVERY time. Wheel hop is a serious problen too. the dealer he go tthe car form has a pile of his old parts.

     

    SVT them self says the rear is no good after 400HP, kinda retarded since a stock '03 Cobra comes with 390HP and gets will over 450-475 with the lightning pulley. the IRS is probably great for a road course but it realy sucks for the 1/4 mile.

  9. sounds like notmany people, if any, have raced a viper agains a z. But in every test/comparrson(road and track, car andriver), c5 vettes have easily beaten vipers in both handling and braking, while the viper won out at top speed and acceleration. I'm sure somebody has racd a vette in a scca race or something, or at least drivin one. If a modded z can beat a stock c5 in the twistys, it'll easily beat a stock viper.

     

    A Vette beats a viper on paper. But when it comes down to lap times the avrage Viper will hand the avrage vette it's ass. the Vipep simply over powers it's victims. Once the viper hits the apex of a turn it just plain takes off.

     

    I think if you got a nicley moded Z up to about the same power to weight ratio then perhaps, PERHAPS the Z could hold it's own. then it's only a matter of stuffing a set of 335/35-17's under the Z :shock:

    • $400 for the good 660 injectors

    • $500 for a '95 ECU + $350 for re-programming

    • $500 larger FMIC or SMIC and piping

    • $700 for Heavy duty clutch and lightened flywheel

    • $300 to install it (I'm not doing that again)

     

    $500 for what '95 ECU? are you talking Eclipse -or- Nissan? Either way I can beat that price. more like $100-$300 any car any year. W/ a waranty. I work in a junk yard and can for sure beat $500 thats outragous.

  10. Just unhook the swing valve from the actuator and let the wastegate sit wide open. This will limit your boost to a couple pounds. I did this when tuning my EFI first time running.

     

    what he said, only I would try to hook up a bike style brake/ shifter cable to the flappers that way you could manualy controll boost. I hope that made sense. lol :(

  11. OK, this isn't a Nissan/ Datsun related but this is the largest gathering of peopple with know how to answer my questions, so here I go.

     

    I own a 2003 KIA spectra 1.8L 5speed that I want to boost so bad I can taste it. I was thinking a simple Garret T3 from JGS Tools bacause I they would also make the manifold and have a package price of $550 for Turbo & manifold

     

    Here are the specs:

    TB03

    .60 Trim T3 compressor wheel rated at 35lb/min

    High flow standard .68 trim T3 turbine wheel

    .48 A/R T3 turbine housing

     

    how can I figure out if this turbo will work well on my Kia? they sell the same turbo with thier 1.8L Mazda miata kit so can I asume it will work well on my 1.8?

     

     

    I'm afraid that a T3 will be to big.

  12. I use a 87 ZX-T driver side manifold mounted upside down to clear my steering box and the stock pickup driver side manifold on the pass side with the X-over pipe routed down around the fron to the engine/ x-member, the down pipe then runs straight down in front the front of the engine. the DP could have been routed around the steering box and frame rail if I hadn't gone 3" but 3" would have probably hit the fender/ tire.

     

    I sent you a reply to the email you sent me today. JGS can make you a pair of manifolds if you wanted to mount the turbo on the X-over pipe.

     

    LMK if you have any more questions.

     

    P.S. If you or anyone has a scaner I can snail-mail pics of my truck and how the manifolds where fliped.

     

     

     

    the VG30 manifolds will bolt on any way. driver to the pass side, upside down, however.

  13. I use a 87 ZX-T driver side manifold mounted upside down to clear my steering box and the stock pickup driver side manifold on the pass side with the X-over pipe routed down around the fron to the engine/ x-member, the down pipe then runs straight down in front the front of the engine. the DP could have been routed around the steering box and frame rail if I hadn't gone 3" but 3" would have probably hit the fender/ tire.

     

    I sent you a reply to the email you sent me today. JGS can make you a pair of manifolds if you wanted to mount the turbo on the X-over pipe.

     

    LMK if you have any more questions.

     

    P.S. If you or anyone has a scaner I can snail-mail pics of my truck and how the manifolds where fliped.

     

     

     

    the VG30 manifolds will bolt on any way. driver to the pass side, upside down, however.

  14. 1FASTKINGCAB have you ever seen the SR20 motor in the Nissan truck? I have a 96 Nissan PU and I would like to put the sr20 motor in.

     

    Mike

     

    Yes I have basicly it is the same swap as the 240SX guys do If you have the KA24E (2.4L SOHC) in your truck. I decided to turbo the V6 because the VG30E, 5-speed, 2WD KingCab model if fairly rare. Most 2WD 5-speeds are 2.4L 4cyls where most 4WD autos are V6.

     

    The basic SR20DET makes around 220hp the GTi-R version makes near 235. A VG30ET makes 205hp but the VG30 makes ALOT more torque and a turboed VG30E makes about 230hp due the higher compression (8.5:1 instead of 7.2:1) and diffrent cams.

     

    Zcarsmakemyheadhurt: """Hit it with a 75shot and race fuel, you'll be OK. What kind of compression does your engine have? How thick is the intercooler (core)."""

     

    I'm afraid to blow up the engine right now because my spare/2nd VG30ET (89z31 turbo) was found "Not rebuildable" by my machine shop. so i'm going to hold off on my quest for thw 12's since this is my daily driver and I need a ride to work to pay for this sickness.

     

    As far as I know my CR is 8.5:1

     

    My intercooler is roughly 30"W/20"H/3"D I don't rember the exact size but the inlet/outlets wrap completly around my radiatior no problem.

     

     

    What I realy am thinking of is when I find a good Turbo V6 block and doing twin T28's and log manifolds. But I just don't know. I'm going to the track this weekend and will turn up the boost a bit and see what happens.

     

    Thanks,

    Tom D

     

     

    SO about how much horsepower will I need to knock .8 off my time in a 2700lb truck?

  15. eek! a larger turbo, realy? damn! I know peopple with turbo Z31's have pushed the stock T3 to 15psi with goo results I was kind of hoping I could do about the same. My only fear is that I'm running my trucks stock VG30E block & bottom end (VG30E-T's use thicker castings) . and I don't know if it could take it, but I would be more than happy to try if I thought I could dip into thw 12's.

     

    SleeperZ: I use a 2 stage TurboXS boost controler to controll boost. JWT has programed the ECM with 2 totaly seperate fuel & spark maps. Map "A" is a very mild program for normal driving and expects to run at 5psi. Map "B" throws fuel economy & streetability (i think i made a new word) out the window and expects to see 10psi. I have both tied into the same toggle switch on the dash so both switch from 5psi/map A to 10psi/Map B at the same time. The ECM can adjust the fuel & spark at any time based on feedback from the O2 sensors, knock sensor and MAF signal. but thee ECM dosen't know how much boost there is. so if I do go up to 12psi I would need to up fuel pressure use a Apexi AFC or HKS AFR to get more Fule in the engine because the ECM would no longer do the job.

     

    Also I i'm not 100% sure what size the injectors are. they arent stock I got them from JWT as used take off's. someone must have gone even bigger. I belive they are 380cc they could be more or less I do know the ECM is programed to run them properly. if it helps they are orange top feed units W/ grey sockets

     

    Lockjaw: I have a 3" mandrel bent exhaust, however I'm not happy with the way ir humps over my rear axle. I was thinking of cuting it off before the axle and makeing a side out exhaust. Also you say 12-13psi would be pushing the limits. the limits of what? the turbo or injectors?

     

    is instaling a T04x compressor a D-I-Y job or is it a spend a few $K job?

     

    I think I'm going to satrt upingthe boost 1psi at a time every few hours and watch the AFR & EGT gauges. and if t seems to be acting OK ill make a few passes at the track this weekend. if it's not raining.

  16. This is curently my best 1/4 mile ever in my truck.

     

    ET 1/4: 13.74

    R/T---: 0.916 (LOL)

    Speed-: 100.8

    60 ft-: 1.908

    330 ft: 3.618

    1/8 mi: 8.751

     

    Here is what I have done to the truck. (what wont fit in my sig)

     

    Garett T3 turbo W/ internal wastegate

    225lph fuel pump

    Z31 ZXT lower intake manifold

    Z31 ZXT injectors (380-400cc?)

    JWT ECM W/ Low & high boost modes

    65mm Cobra MAF

    Turbo XS 2-stage boost controler (5 & 10 PSI)

    HUEG Ford power stroke FMIC

    SLP panhard bar

    Over the leaf traction bars

    I also run 245-45-17 Nitto 555R drag radials at the track only because I dont want to hurt my 275/40-17 bridgestone S02's

     

     

    I'll be getting to a dyno this summer. switching fro 5psi to 10psi is like night & day. how much faster could 12-15psi be? what would that do to the ECM? since it is programed to run at either 5 OR 10 psi? and finaly could running such a huge intercooler hurt horsepower? the I/C has 3.5" inlet/outlets that I had resized to 3" whitch is still prety big, the outlet on the turbo is only a hair over 2" would a smaller FMIC help?

     

    Thanks for any input,

    Tom D

  17. I'm finaly ready to go to twin T28's in my truck, but need manifolds. I don't have the $$$ for fancy ass equal lenght headers. and there isn't room to hack up stock manifolds. is there any place/ shops I can send a set of gaskets as templates to make me some decent log manifolds?

     

    Thanks,

    Tom D

  18. Of the 4 Garret turbos I have laying around they all say either Garret, AirResearch or Garret - AirResearch.

     

    So you probably dont have a Garret unit. But it may be a clone. I would take it to a mecanic at your dads work and ask if they know what it came off of. or if they can point you in the righ direction.

  19. Most of the HP you get from NOS is due to the much MUCH colder intake charge entering the engine. and the added O² helps too. But for sure got with a WET kit. Larger injectors will have your car running hella rich off the bottle and you won't have the added HP/Torque control of a wet kit. A higher NOS to Fuel ratio and you'll get more HP than torque when on the bottle and a lower NOS:Fuel will give you more torque.

     

    Also, (not 100% sure though) When it is said that your turbo is good for 400hp I belive that only counts when the turbo is the power adder bringing your N/A motor up to 400HP. If you where to throw a 50 or 75 shot on top of you 400hp turbo I'm sure you would hit the 450-475hp out of it. if that all made sense smile.gif

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