Oaklandjester

PS good catch speed up 1.5 for viewing pleasure the motor sounds good at 9k

Laguna Seca has not been nice to us.. we totaled the car last month and are in process of moving all the parts to a 77 s30 shell... for Sonoma in December .. driver hit tire wall at turn 4 not even a sore neck.. cage, seat and HANS device did their job

Funny you mention that we kept getting suspension and wheels knocked around from minor contact so I made oversized 18 gage fender flares (double wall- one hoop around tire and one plane to the fender with several 1/4# square tube struts to the inner fender well — problem solved...

PS this was taken before going solid. There was a lot of movement in the driveline ...

LLave I agree going to solid bar here is a short video clip of a race at BW

I did mean had, we actually like full metal jacket mode, the car dances beautifully with the solid driveline and we get more power to the ground faster... we have cv axles so no u-joints. The car is already loud , two fuel pumps, diff cooler pump and exhaust, but with ear plugs and a helmet it all gets lost... driver comfort is ok we have a full containment seat and we want to be able to feel in the seat of the pants what the car is doing. We are running 275# springs so the car is soft enough. I have come to the conclusion the bar should not be tied to the drop bars. I believe the TT unit will take the play out.

The bar already hasn’t PU bushings the issue isn’t “firming it up” is the fact the spring bar is the last flexible structure in a solid mounted drivetrain ( solid motor mounts, trans mount and ft diff mont) thus it flexes. I now know I can’t weld the springbsteel (thank you Namor! )!so I orders Technon Toy bar and will diagonally brace the drop mounts and dog bone. No real access issue as rear diff fills from inside car (remote fill) and drains from oil cooler feed line coming from then drain hole. And I don’t see any real disassembly issues as it will come out as a entire unit.

Rebuilding a endurance track car after we totaled last one at Laguna Seca. We are putting a r180 in a 280 shell. ( 220 ho to wheels w/ rear dif cooler) We have a solid mount drivetrain except for mustache bar. Don’t really want to drop $500 on billit ones. Is there any reason I couldn’t reinforce the mustache bar and tie it to the drop mounts and dog bone?

Need R180 3:90 ratio in a K housing have 4:11 to trade or will buy outright Mike@calsubrolaw.com

Slotted the towers, cut the hats down. Relocated the lac bushings much better finished the paint to look like a zero al la forza zero 240 z not bad for a driveway paint job and a harbor frieght airbrush,

I had fitment issues as well. i took a bunch of measurements and found some 15 inch rims would fit but some would not.. (depended on the radius between the rim and the basket.. (we were trolling craigs list for cheap wheels) so we just went with 16" rotas. When you install watch the LCA lip, I ground it 3 times for clearance, (we have the short knuckles with the bump steer drop), In the end I took Dave's advice and just cut off the end. no more clearance issues. When we repack the bearings i may weld a plate across where I cut do it doesn't look like such a hack job.. we cut them with the rotor on.... not the best way to get clean lines..

Thanks for the comments, exactly what i needed, simple, and easy to understand! The measurements on the LCA are much appreciated Mike Morse .

Ok one to many expresso's tonight .... Here is a clip of our last race to give you an idea of how hard we push the brakes http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8EhBUXMtqx0&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D8EhBUXMtqx0

Fronts had ducts from the air dam but no alum hose. So not sure how much air it got. we are running at Thunderhill next and will fab some dryer hose duct. We did blow out the stock booster, probably the original unit. Just upgrading to the 8" one. Need to drill new firewall holes and drill and tap the brake pedal connector as the bolt on the new unit is bigger than the old one.

Dave sent them with our kit and I need to find out what they are . I believe they are wildwood pads .but they make several compounds . we did 24 hours and like beermanpete we have a lot of pad left and very little wear on the discs. We have vented disc front and back , We are very happy with the set up (1" WW MC and a pro portioning valve .) Tried a line lock as a parking brake and it stuck so we took it out no need for our use . Another Z (260) running stock brakes kept having to come in pits to cool brakes and has to change rotors every night . Needless to say we are very happy with the setup and the willwood parts are easy to obtain if needed

I cut off the ends and have run the car in a 24 hour race no issues. I tried progressive grinding but didn't like the minimal clearance.

I have a E-31 of a running l24here in Nor Cal , I get to LA once or twice a month and and bags fly free on SW, when did you need it ?

Thank you for your thoughts , I would love to go coil overs but the penalty for doing so would be to great. they love creative fixes but will hit coilovers with a lot of BS lap penalties. We were in class "b" and want to stay there ! The 4:11 gears worked well for sears point andkept us in a good power band . Lemons racing is crowded so rarely are you on a clean line. A LSD unit would cost more than the car did! ( However i will look into one for NASA events. For camber we are going to slot the strut towers( anybody have any pics to share) we were advised to push the front control arm out and up on the front crossmember. (Any pics of thiswouldhelp as well) Any reason I can't swap out a set of 240 front hats for the rears? They look at least an inch narrower???

Greetings, I need some good ideas on setting up the suspension of a 71 for endurance road racing. But first a bit of information The Car current condition 71 Z early L28 block 5 speed stage R-180 4:11 open Unknown lowering springs Tokiko illuminas AZ Dave big vented discs WW 1" MC Prop valve New bearings u joints - new bushings (urethane) bump steer spacers short steering arms F 205/50/16 R 225/50/16 Dierzza ZII ST sway bars F&R Stock camber castor new "big dog" frame rails 6 pt roll cage tied in shock towers with cross bay between shock towers. We ran at Sears point 3 days - 24 hours of track time (less pits) car never pushed but we spun a few times - i know i know driver error .. FYI fastest lap 2.09 fasted lap of all cars 2.04 (ok 1 car had a 2:01 on Monday when there were only 60 cars instead of 160.. point is while we are not the best drivers we are competitive.. We would like to get any old school el cheepo racing fix advice for the following needs. - with the lemons caveat (need it to work and not cost a boat load - ie no coilovers, no AZ Z track pack, etc creative ideas rewarded.. Camber - we need negative camber! so far the only idea we are looking at is slotting the top holes at all 4 corners and moving the front holes up and out in the ft cross-member. Any other thoughts? Caster? we got nothing here, any ideas and what will it get us. Lowering. car came with unknown lowering springs looks like about 1 inch. but needs to be lower, lots of room over the tires and car has bump steer spacers... Best so far is advice from Dave Robello, suggested cutting top hats down an inch, (heat up rubber take it out slot metal re install cut down drops car keeps suspension travel... Tried on extra hats destroyed rubber ??? Any other ideas. keep in mind aesthetics are no issue .. Tightening up rear.. negative camber will help -0 camber now.. somebody suggester going to 17 inch rims and bigger wider tires.. thoughts staggered set up no problem, clearance no problem (just cut out any offending metal... _ if so how wide we have a nother l28 block we are building and may get to 225 or so HP.. Any ideas are appreciated

We converted our Z over to AZ Dave's big vented rotors running 24 Hours of lemons endurance races. We completed a true 24 hours of racing at Sears Point this year in 3 days. NO ISSUES - brakes never faltered. - did blow out booster though. We are running a Wilwood 1" master, WW prop valve, no e brake. used a line lock, then it failed so we took it out. Very happy with AZ brakes. truly bolt on and took a beating, haven't ordered a second set of rotors yet but Dave says rotors are turntable and readily available. Contract to 260 Z running same event had to come to let front stock rotors cool, and change every night ...