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SleeperZ31

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Everything posted by SleeperZ31

  1. okay, the new alt. is installed, on 87' up z31s its pretty easy, just a 405k4 belt and a little grinding on the adjuster bracket and its in, runs a bit stronger than the old 70 amp did with the fan and lights on, definently worth the work.
  2. yeah, i found that a long time ago before i joined hybridz, thanks for the link, so pretty much all id have to do is swap pulleys from my old Z alternator to the maxima alt. to retain stock belt function, right? wouldnt the size difference in pulleys make the alternator produce less amperage at idle and defeat the purpose of it in the first place though? My cars been having rough starts and idles poorly for about 5 mins till its warmed up, and it never did this until the new radio and e-fan install so im guessing the charging systems to blame, right?
  3. yeah, thats why i like the idea of a centri', sure it makes boost a little less responsive than a standard roots style, but the centri' is pretty much adaptable to anything AND WAY easier to intercool, the only problem is their so damn expensive compared to roots and turbos
  4. okay, i know the following question may seem stupid:icon45:, and im sure ill catch some flak for asking, but centrifugal superchargers are almost identical to turbos except(obviously) the blowers belt driven and spins the impellers with a internally oiled(usually) gear drive system whereas the turbo is exhaust-gas driven, and im looking to supercharge my car (turbo-ing it would require me to ditch my awesome header/catback setup i just bought) ...sooo i was wondering if anyones thought of possibly taking a good condition turbo and machining it to be belt driven? what all would i need to do to get it to operate reliably without overheating/ oiling issues, etc...and would i need a larger turbo to make as much boost as a smaller one being exhaust driven.. or better yet if anyone could find or sell me a decent used centri' supercharger thatd be great too.. again i just like to throw ideas out there, some of 'em might seem stupid but im always thinking and this forum is a nice place to vent..
  5. Im looking to upgrade my '87 N/A z31 to a 90amp maxima alternator and from looking at some other z sites im a bit lost , some say it needs a entirely different pulley and spacers, one site says all i have to do is grind some of the bracket and find a belt that'll fit without too much slack, so i just need to figure out what all i need to do and whether or not theres just a better Z alternator out there, thx, PS i mostly need the extra amperage to run a better ignition system( MSD 6al in the future) and to keep my electric fan from killing my charging system, it kicks on alot with the humid weather around here, so yeah..thanks again all...
  6. Well, it turns out the 170' stat' is OEM BUT i ordered a NIsMO 63c/150f thermostat (60 frickin bucks!!!was 76.!!) it states that it fits most nissan mills up to '99 and will drop operating temps by at least 5 degrees F at full throttle, so ill install it tommorrow and post the results...
  7. yeah, i use filtered drinking water for all my coolant changes, the 3-4 bucks beats the hell outta replacing a rusted out motor or rad. Ive got a 170' thermostat(not installed yet), think itll make a difference? or are there colder ones out there?
  8. True, maybe the aftermarket pulleys used on the m90 to increase boost could be used too...now its just a matter of intercooling it, i like the way the supercharged thunderbirds/mercury cougars did it (air-to-air with a smic) instead of the more restrictive plate style air-water like most aftermarket kits for GM 3.8's...but since the vg30e(t) could handle 6-7psi of un-intercooled boost im sure it could handle the blower, especially considering its using fresh intake air and not air circled through a extremely hot turbine, plus the blower would probably be sticking through my hood so maybe i could fab some sort of heatsink to attach to the case to cool it a little, or even try running a methy injection setup...too many good ideas, just want a vg33er to mess with! gonna post an add for one soon as my new heads/cams are broke in and maybe after a fresh clutch too...
  9. So i FINALLY got my cams back from frickin Isky today, and heres the specs: INTAKE TIMING Duration:256 Open: 9 before TDC Close: 67 After BDC Cam lift: .281 Valve lift: .425 Valve Lash: .000 Exhaust Duration:256 Open: 67 Before BC Close: 9 After TDC Cam Lift: .281 Valve Lift: .425 Valve Lash: .000 Overlap: 18 Deg. Taken at .050 Lifter Rise Intake Duration: 202 Deg Exhaust Duration: 202 Open: -18 before TDC Open: 40 Before BDC Close: 40 After BDC Close: -18 AFter TDC Sound like a good grind for a NA VG30e? Also, it states that its mandatory to use a additive or oils containing zinc/phosphorus for break-in and its recommended thereafter, and that on initial startup i should rev to 2,500 rpms and hold it for 10-15 minutes, but does this apply to OHC nissan motors? the form they sent was for a pushrod chevy motors (it stated that the cam relies on motor oil "splash" from the connecting rods so its gotta be a pushrod motor) and also mentioned it was for flat-tappet hydraulic and solid lifter cams... also any advice on installing cams would be appreciated!
  10. yeah, id almost guess the cobalt/ion may be the chevy using the m62, the m90's a helluva good blower, had one on my buick, my only problem with buying an entire motor is getting it home (i have no truck/van/large car) to haul it with, there was a perfect condition motor for 400$ less than a month ago here in NC but it would have been a 100 mile round trip and i dont think the vg33er woulda fit in the back of my Z..lol..thanks for the site though, will def. check it out!
  11. Thanks, looking forward to the experience, im not too scared, im sure everybody is when they step off that bus, but i think the hardest part is gonna be leaving the town and people ive known for the past 17 years(3 years were in T.X but i was like 1 then) not to mention quitting the job ive held for 3 1/2 years and the crew im so close with (im a cook,worked my way up from the dish pit..good times..) but all in all its gonna be awesome im sure! oh and im gonna miss driving my Z for 13 weeks str8, God only knows what sorta trouble my dad will get into with it..lol..prolly wont give it back!
  12. okay, im gonna be shipping out here soon for Parris island and i figured this could very well be the last couple of weeks i spend with my precious Z before my dad hogs it (or should i say, "takes care of it") for the 3 months im gone, and since ive talked about it so much i decided to start stockpiling the parts for a supercharged vg30(e) build, and i need to know where to get the following parts the easiest since so few junkyards have the vg30e® motor lying around: 1.the supercharger, of course, not toooo hard, but still... 2.the intake plenum for said supercharger, i have not seen one off a motor for sale, EVER, maybe have to buy OEM nissan, eh? 3.a '87+ turbo model z31 ecu, along with injectors, MAF sensor, and O2 sens. 4.a proper crank pulley/pulley system to run the damn thing + a serpentine belt the correct length. By swapping over a turbo ECU injectors, O2, and MAF sensor, the engine should run properly, right? or are there more sensors/ electrical connections im missing or may need to run the setup? i know ill need to fab a different EGR tube, thats no prob., i just need the right electronics to get her up and running soon enough to enjoy a few cruise-ins and sunny beach days b4 i leave....ideas guys? maybe just find a motor and a seller willing to part it out? any directions leading to a junker would be highly appreciated! OH and think a 139k mile motor could handle the added pressure of 5-6psi boost?
  13. yeah the holden commodore, i know, AND if you look hard enough theres a water to air plate style intercooler from that aussie mill for the 3.8 series II m90 supercharger, was gonna put it on my riv but decided to mod the Z instead...and what i meant was that the series II supercharged l67 shoulda been a option in the f-body, above the NA 3.8 and just below the lt1/ls1 options, woulda made a helluva mustang killer...your lucky though cuz the regal GS is actually the lightest of the coupe/sedan line from GM with the l67, and being a BUICK its a super-sleeper, surprized a few VTECs myself..lol OH and i wholeheartidly agree, gas mileage SUCKs + premium 91+ only gas or it knocks out the ass..lol...at one point though i thought about doing a Bradley GT vw kit car with the l67, just imagine RWD 4-speed with 240 hp+ 280tq and a curb weight around 1500lbs..droool
  14. Okay, its another hot humid summer here and since im doing a higher compression NA build i need to run my z31 a bit cooler, ive tried a brand new turbo model radiator, along with a electric fan install AND tried running 80% water and Redlines WatterWetter(which i do NOT recommend, it didnt drop the temps AT ALL, will complain to them asap) what else could i do? i know i could run a cooler thermo but ive heard it can cause temp fluctuations and damage internals, is that true? im just trying to get it below the halfway mark on the temp gauge so i can run a hotter ignition to go with my cam/headwork and not worry about detonation or cracked/warped heads...ideas?
  15. my thoughts exactly murd3r! prolly gonna do it here soon...post pics upon completion.. Trumpet, is that a series II supercharged regal? i had a '97 riviera supercharged, that motor is easily the best thing to have ever come out of GM, to bad they didnt make it rwd or offer it in 5-speed, or better yet have it as an f-body option...but a company online makes lotus 7 style kit cars based on the 3.8 and with the supercharged l67 motor the kit car does 0-60 in the 3-4 second range, i watched a vid and im still drooling..lol
  16. OK i know this is more of a performance-minded forum, but ive had this idea going through my mind for some time now, the paint (blue mist) on my z31 is pretty shot, and just isnt aggressive enough, what id really like to do is get it into a fresh coat of flat (or "olive" so to speak) black, with a full set of window louvers and some old school bullethole rims from American racing.....its got full tube headers, glass packs and is pending a set of stg 2 cams and engloids plenum, its already sounds badass i want it to look it too...f**k sleepers! But yeah, theres just something about black primer's tough look that i love and the louvers/noisy ass glass pack-headers would make it look/sound like something from a camaro/mustang guys worst nightmares..lol...whadda ya think? get it redone in blue and keep it norm or primer? any ideas what a GOOD spray on either would cost? the main reason im asking is that my father and few buds think it would look "ghetto", its my car i dont really give a f**k but honest opinions on this topic please, i know itd hurt the resale value, but so do miles and age and id rather worry about enjoying it not the money i could get off of it..
  17. Im sure youve all heard of the Tornado air managment things, (the $60.00 finned aluminum thing) thats supposed to "spin" the intake charge and create more power/fuel economy (yeah its a bunch'a B.S) HOWEVER i picked one up for free from a friends honda...lol... and found that it fits perfectly behind the throttle body on my gutted plenum (the tops not on yet) and i thought about maybe welding it INSIDE the intake instead of putting it in the convoluted path it would normally take after the air filter like the instructions suggest, i know for a fact that it does in fact create a vortex ( a small one, but it does work, i used a fog machine and a small powerful fan in front of it to see if it was just a hoax). In fact i saw in a recent chevy magazine, a engine builder made a simple divider out of aluminum and cut a dual-plane intake and welded the divider in place and gained a total of 15lbft of torque at the wheels, so i just figured now that my intakes totally gutted maybe id try something a little off the wall, anyone think it would result in a measurable gain or just defeat the effort of gutting it?
  18. personally all i want is to be at the 200hp mark, alot to ask i know considering the turbo vg30e was just able to make that much stock, but even if its below the 200hp mark just something thats fun to drive and nice sounding, the only reason im really doing cams is because a bolt broke off flush into the current heads with my header installation and no machine shop would be able to extract it with the heads in place(its my only ride and i couldnt have it down long enought to take the heads off and have the bolt removed, and im afraid to push it past 3,500rpm for fear of blowing an exhaust gasket) and i figured if im gonna throw a new set of (or should i say new-ish) heads i might as well take the time to improve them a bit my big dream is to do a supercharged vg30(e) using the supercharger and manifold from an xterra and use the internals and engine managment from a turbo vg30, ive got the engine stand and tools and located a turbo motor but no luck finding a supercharger or (even harder) the lower intake plenum...oh well, i can still dream... so far for mods ive got the msa headers, no a/c, electric fan and CAI, along with better wires and plugs, pending cams, P/P heads and a engloids plenum...think i can hit 200hp?....oh and i dont know if it counts for much but royal purple full synthetic oil too..lol
  19. Ive been told that the nissan factory installed ignition is quite good on the z31's, but here soon im adding a set of stage 2 isky grind cams along with a gutted plenum and a bit of head work, so i figured that a upgrade would be in order to take advantage of the higher flow rates ill be getting with these mods, and im looking into either a Mallory Hyfire system OR a MSD 6A, anyone here install these on a fuel-injected motor? and did you need a tach-adapter? Id like to hear personal opinons and maybe some advice on installing it, thanx PS id just like to say to all of you, try and avoid isky at all costs...not only did they lose the paperwork on my cams AND the cams themselves, but they had me mixed up with somebody in New york(and im in N.C....wtf) and had me calling the wrong technician for 3 days straight (how can you get the names Ron and steve mixed up?) all in all they were quite rude to me (and it was by fault of their own my cams got lost, why get mad at me?!) and i will never suggest them to anyone or buy from them again, i just hope these cams are good, if not im gonna mail myself to cali and ram them up someones a$$ with sand in the vaseline...lol
  20. Great info, thanks! some of the testing that would be required to accurately measure the increase in compression from having the heads shaved are a bit out of reach (theres no dyno's anywhere near me..*sigh*..) but oddly enough plenty of experienced machine shops (doesnt make sense, does it?) but yes, it is a N/A to start with and will be for some time, definently hear you on watching out for detonation, hate to destroy the mill from too much compression but i doubt that having the heads shaved would increase it that much, and the combustion chambers being polished so theres less chance of localized hotspots from excess casting so maybe i will have 'em shaved, just gotta get the $$$
  21. Just had a quick question involving compression ratio's on the vg30(e) since im planning on making all N/A power i figured increasing the compression ratio within a reasonable limit would be a great addition to the isky cams (which im still frickin' waiting on) along with the in-progress plenum, and it brought me back to my '94 z28 days when i had its heads shaved enough to correct the slight warpage it had which in turn increased compression slightly.. How much do you think the vg30(e) heads could be shaved without causing valve-piston clearance issues and how much would this change the comp. ratio, AND would it be a worthwhile venture? I know that thinner head gaskets and high-dome pistons achieve the same effect, but pistons would require my car being down for some time (and its my only ride so thats a no-go) and thinner head gaskets pose the risk of leaking and usually have a shorter life expectancy so i figured having the heads shaved might be the way to go for more N/A H.P., what do you guys think?
  22. I know that when installing a new set of cams you need to also replace the lifters (ive heard of people getting them resurfaced but i dont want to rely on 20+year old lifters) but what about rocker arms? is it nescessary to replace the rocker arms or if theyre in good shape can they be reused?
  23. Ive recently upgraded my vg30(e) to a electric cooling fan (s-blade type, flows 1,300cfm and draws 10amps) and shortly thereafter (like 2 weeks) the alternator, which was new (and a new battery too), died! now 4 weeks after it was swapped for ANOTHER new alternator, its doing it again! why would it keep going throught these alternators?! the fans set to come on at 190' and it doesnt come on enough to really wear it down, and ive seen guys with double fan setups and sound systems in their Z's and theyve not had this problem, am i just cursed to change alternators every 4 weeks forever?
  24. damn, oh well, i'll just have to search harder for a 87'-up hood, thanks for the help.
  25. Im looking to do a cowl-induction style hood for my car by hand and am going to use a junkyard hood as a base, BUT the local junkyard has only a 84' and a 85' hood, but my Z31 is an 87', and i know there were slight changes over the years...would an older hood fit my 87'? I need an exact, for-sure answer because i dont wanna get it all together and painted only to have it not sit right, and the junkyard has a sketchy return policy so i cant just buy it, see if it fits and take it back if it doesnt... Thanks and please help!
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