Huy350Z
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Posts posted by Huy350Z
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The original 280Z mount will work.
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Perhaps this is what you’re looking for:
https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/z-type-3-transmission-crossmember-ka-transmission
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Wow, the dash looks great. The gauges are beautiful as well. Thanks for sharing the pictures.
Did you have to cut the holes for the cigarette lighter and the emergency light switch? And is your car 72 or 73?
Thanks,
Huy
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I have a set of MM billet ZXT CV adapters that I do not need for awhile. Please send me a PM if you are interested.
Huy
I ordered the machined adapters on may 25th and shipped my cores. The cores got to MM on june 6th. After several attempts to get an update I heard nothing and was forced to dispute the transaction with paypal. That has since been settled and I have still heard nothing from MM. Send me a pm when you get a chance with price and shipping to 27703. Thanks.
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Contact MSA:
They do not show some of the parts online but you can find them in their catalog. I bought a few hard brake lines from them a few years ago. Give them a call.
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Thanks John.
I am going to take the housing to one of the shops in Pasadena that did some work for me back in the late 90's next week. If they can't do it, I guess Marcos and I will have to drive to Lake Elsinore. Marcos, are you up for a fishing trip?
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Marcos (Hybrid240Z) and I have been looking for a machine shop near our area (Los Angeles) that is willing to machine our Z32 bell housings for a resonable price. If you know of someone in/near the LA area that can do this kind of work, please point us to him.
Thank you,
Huy
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Big Phil,
I think the brake dics are not the correct ones. With this swap (using Maxima calipers and brackets), there will be a gap between the calipers and the brake center hubs. The correct discs for this swap are the 1984-85 300zx non-turbo, non-canadian rear rotors, and they need to be turned to a diameter of 11.225 + - .025 (any brake shop can do this for you for less than $10 each). These are the same dics used for the 240SX rear disc brake swap sold by MM. When the correct dics are used, all of the pads will be on the dics. I think "Auxillary" posted a link recently on where to get these discs for cheap. The beauty of this swap is that it will fit under most 14' wheels (slotted mags) which does not apply to your case.
Hope this helps,
Huy
I think they are maxima calipers? I'm getting the zx one if thats what you have. I thought they looked way to high? I want full coverage. -
The 240SX rear brake is a nice swap and MM puts together a great kit. However, if you are planning on keeping the 14' slotted mags (most models) and certain 14' wheels, it won't fit. Go with 15' wheels or larger if you want to go this route.
Huy
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Yep. I purchased the same gasket from MSA a couple of months ago and it fits well. They usually have it in stock so give them a call.
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There is a possibility that you mount the moustache bar the wrong way. Could you post a picture of how it is mounted? You may need to get a custom drive shaft since you are running a RB combo. I hope some RB experts will chime in here.
About the differential flange, R200's from 1975 280Z have rectangular output shafts. You can get a square output shaft from another R200 (not 75 280Z) and it should fit fine. Some of the R200's have round output shafts and they should work as well.
Hi all,I currently have an early model 240z with a RB and a custom drive shaft (spicer u joints-1310 series) which was connected to a broken R180. I am trying to finish up swapping an R200 from a 280z in so I can drive the car.
I have the R200 moustache bar, half shafts etc....
So far I have found two issues after test fitting,
1. My drive shaft is too short (early 240z had a differnt length shaft)
2. The R180 flange on my driveshaft is different than the R200. The R180 output is square and the R200 is rectangular. (Output shafts are also non exchangeable between R200-R180)
1.Is there a correct positioning of the moustache bar which will make the diff line up correctly? If not issue I can remedy with a spacer.
2.Does any one know the correct part number for either the spicer yoke for the tail end of my driveshaft, or if there is another output shaft I can use. I tried my local custom drive shaft place and they had no idea after phoning around.
This issue has been rasied a number of times and I have found about 4 or 5 threads, however they all seem to trail off before after a solution is found, without a concrete yes/no and a # .
Any how kinda frusterated
Thanks
Chris Crombie
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The mustache bar bushing kit from Energy Suspension has the same WASHERS for the top and the bottom. The kit that is sold by MSA (Prothane?) has bigger diameter washer for the top. I used both kits before and I can tell you that the inner metal sleeves are the same for both of them. The inner metal sleeves are straight tubes, not taper, for both kits.
Well again, mine was Prothane brand and not Energy, so I can't speak for that. Sorry, my mistake I can say for sure that the WASHERS were different diameters on the inner portions. Not the poly.But I don't recall there being any difference in the sleeves within them, like a taper or anything. They were straight right through.
I'd have to pull mine apart to see so maybe someone else can chime in on here that remembers.
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YEP. What aux. said above. My 73 was rolling around without the rear end, half shafts, drive shaft, and rear brakes for awhile.
Hey guys,Currently I am doing fabrication to fit a ford solid axle rear end into my car, fortunately I haven't got too far yet. I am moving here in a couple weeks, and the whole rear end is out of the car, I usually don't like to skimp on things especially like this but due to time constraints I don't think I will have time to put the whole thing back together.
So the question is how much of the rear end needs to be put back together to roll this thing around? Not too far, just enough to get it on my trailer, and then unload it at my new shop.
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I used to run a set of 14X7 -6 offset slotted mag with 195/60/14 tires and they were every close to rubbing the front fenders. I never ran into any problem because the car was not lowered. If you plan on installing 205/60/14 tires on the -9 offset wheels on a lowered Z, I think they will rub just a little bit. Rolling the fenders should solve the problem.
Did he have a -9mm offset?
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We replaced the rear springs on a 260 2+2 (late) without removing the spindle pins. The late 260Zs are very similar to the 280Zs. We had to remove the emergency brake cables and possibly the rear brake lines (can't remember). You might need someone to help push the rear control arm down while you swing the strut assembly out (clear the rear fender lip). It took us quite awhile but is was possible.
Hi everyone, I was wondering if anyone has had any success working on their rear suspension on a 280z without having to remove the spindle pins (we all know what a pain this to do). In other words is it possible to remove the three strut bolts ,emergency brake cable and compress the springs while they are still on the car and lower the strut assembly enough to work on it.What I am trying to do is lower my rear which is currently sitting higher than the front. I may just change the upper insulator mount to a set from a 240z and hope I get about a one inch drop for my efforts.
Any help, suggestions and/or direction would be much appreciated.
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You can purchase urethane mustache bar bushings from MSA for less than $40:
http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PSDC06D/23-4139
You need to remove the original rubber to install it. The best way is to burn it out.
So I got my mustache bar for my r200 swap--- but it looks like the bushings could use a sprucing up--- aka new bushings....where can these be had? -
I used 3M Super Trim Adhesive 08090 for the hood pad and headliner for my other project car and it worked beautifully. You can buy it a Walmart for fairly cheap.
So, my driver side roof lining is starting to come apart. It is beginning to droop down where the sunshade sits, and is coming loose where the top left of the windshield is. I was wondering if anyone here found a simple way to fix this?I was thinking of getting some kind of sealent or glue and sticking a needle through and squirting some out and then just apply pressure to the spot for a little while. I would do this to a bunch of spots until I am happy with the outcome.
But, I was hoping someone on here might have a better idea. The passenger side is perfectly fine, and I want to keep it that way!!
Any ideas?
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You might be able to reuse the R180 half shafts. At a minimum, you must have the R200 mustache bar (from an S30 Z car, not from the 81ZX) and the R200 itself.
I have a 77 280z that I want to replace the existing R180 with a R200 out of a 81ZX. I have searched and read every post on converting but most of them are aimed at converting the 240z rears.My question is simple. Can I use my existing half shafts, mustache bar, link mounting brace, and front mount to make this switch? If not than what would I need? Thanks for your input.
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Several people have PMed me for more information about the spacers and therefore I would like to add more pictures here so everyone can see the design of this type of spacers.
I was incorrect about the longer stud in the previous post--my memory has been fading laterly . The actual stud is a custom-stud with threads on the stud head. Once this stud is installed (one for each spacer), regular wheel lugs can be used. Beside this stud, each spacer is held onto the hub by three nuts.
One issue that I observe with this type of spacer is the close proximity between two of the original studs and the spacer' studs. For everything to fit flushed, the holes for the three nuts mentioned above need to be relatively large; and these larger holes are very close to the spacer' studs. Cracks could be seen in this area--not all the way, but around the enlarged part of the nut holes and the studs.
Hope this information helps in your search for a 4-to-5 lug spacers.
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I have a set of 4-to-5 lug adapter that came with one of the Zs I purchased a long time ago. I have never seen anything like them before but I guess they can be made by any competent wheel shop. The bolt pattern is for Z31 wheels (5X4.5) and they are 1 inch thick. As you can see in the picture, one of the wheel studs is shared between the hub and the adapter (using longer stud in the orginal location)
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Pete,
I sent you a PM on the panels.
Thanks.
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The combo listed above using the correct Maxima brackets WILL fit under most 14' wheels, including the slotted mags and stock wheels. Most people have clearance issue with 14' wheels when they use the 240SX rear brake swap. I used to have a set of 14' Appliance slotted mags and they did not fit under the 240SX swap but would clear the 81 Maxima disc brake swap with no problem.
Hope this helps.
I currently have some 70's era aluminum slotted mags, but may go with the original steel wheels/caps. Thanks, Kevin -
Yes, there is a cheaper option. It is also from MM:
http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=32_53&products_id=64
Hope this helps,
Huy
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Here are pictures of the different hubs from MM. You can see the wheel studs from the pictures.
http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=60_61&products_id=48
Hope this helps,
Huy
So all I have to do is take off the Wheel and see if it's round or not? Is that the part the wheel bolts to in front of the rotor? The noob thanks you!
Socal Machine Shop for L Series Bellhousing
in Drivetrain
Posted
Godzilla Raceworks did the machining work for me last year (2021) for $125. Shipping from CA to Texas and back was $130. I used a 4-speed housing and the cost to drill and weld on a bung was $150 so I did not use their service for this work. It took a couple of months to get it back due to COVID-19 so plan accordingly.