Jehannum
-
Posts
116 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Jehannum
-
-
I met John around the 2008 MSA shindig, and have a few of his parts on my car. I'm just gutted to hear about this.
-
Fusible links are typically 4 wire gauge sizes smaller than the wire they protect. The white/red wire in the Z is roughly 10 gauge so the fusible link should be 14 gauge.
Thanks!
-
Hey all, '71 240Z with electrical issues here.
My coolant circuit sprung a leak, right over the starter. This shorted everything to ground, and ended up letting the smoke out of both the fusible link (between the white w/red stripe harness wire and the starter) and the ammeter.
I'm swapping over to a '76 volt meter, so the interior stuff is taken care of, but I need to replace the fusible link. It looks to my eye like a 10 or a 12ga. wire, but I figured I'd tap the brain trust here since one of you probably knows it off hand (and since searching fusible linke gauge returns nothing...).
Of note is the fact that I have a rear-mounted battery with a kill switch behind the license plate (the alternator charging wire runs to the kill switch instead of the starter).
-
I'd start troubleshooting here. It will involve ripping at least half your dash apart, though.
-
I have checked all the lines even all the ones behind the dash. That is why I was wondering about the Climate Sensor in The T Bar??
Thanks!!
There's also a small pleated tube that takes in air from the driver's side dashboard. If that pulled off of its vent boss, you'll likely see a similar issue.
edit: if you set the temp all the way to 90°F (the max setting), it should bypass temperature sensing altogether. What happens when you do that? If it gets warm, then you've got a sensor issue. If not, you've got a mechanical issue (mix door or vent door).
-
I just grounded the battery to the floor of the hatch, and then grounded the starter body to the original post on the firewall (where the smaller wire connected originally).
Grounding nets are overrated.
-
Wow, I didn't realize who this was, and I had no idea that was even the same car! It looks great man! I am glad you got it together. Still got Big Red?
Thanks.
The Z32 is about due for paint jail (I've almost got the engine bay stripped enough to call it ready), and I'll be laying paint on it soon. Eric (sq_creations on here) tuned it this year, and it made ~430HP before I decided to tear it down again. I'm hoping that with a functioning boost controller (not limited to ~13PSI), I can make slightly better numbers than that.
-
Jenanum- those are awesome photos! Car looks great too
Thanks. I can hardly believe how nice it came out after being sandwiched in '09.
-
-
Do you have pics of this crank pulley? Never heard of that.
I don't have any pics.
The basic arrangement should be the same on any Z31 pulley, though.
Of the 3 rows, the rear two are one piece, and the power steering pulley is another (bolted on the front). The bolts go through the PS pulley, through the alt/AC pulley, into the harmonic balancer. The balancer holds the keyway, and the alt/AC pulley holds the timing marks. Since the double row pulley isn't keyed to the balancer in any way, if you take it apart, make sure to reassemble with the timing marks starting right over the top of the keyway (spaced clockwise away from it).
I've heard talk of two and three piece pulleys, but I've only ever seen the three piece unit. Car is an '84 NA, and the reference pulley I used came off of (I think) an '86 (two V-belt, one serp for the alternator).
-
Follow up: The distributor was stabbed correctly, based on the marks on the balancer. The marks on the balancer were wrong.
He'd taken the balancer apart to paint the pulleys, and did not reassemble it correctly. Since he had the 3 piece balancer, it was possible to get the timing marks misaligned in increments of (you guessed it!) 60 degrees. I sat it next to a known good one, and the keyway to timing mark relationship was off. I corrected it, and how he's running happily at 20 btdc.
-
Heh, guess I'm owned then. That would make some sense, then, since the only way the bastard would run would be 60° off.
-
Are you sure you used cylinder #1? since number 2 fires 60 degrees later.
Cylinder 1 is the front cylinder on the bank opposite the distributor.
-
Okay, what you do is set the engine to TDC where cylinder #1 is on it's compression stroke after this you pull the distributor and set it so it's point at the fuel pressure regulator. That should be the correct timing order, unless he missed a tooth or something on timing belt.
EDIT: I forgot to mention make sure the cams are also in alignment with the crank.
I know what TDC is, and we visually verified that the cams are setup right in relation to when the crank says it's at TDC.
When the distributor is set the right way, pointing at cylinder 1, it won't fire at all when we try to turn it over.
-
I'm helping a friend with the VG in his Z31. He's done a basic NA build, and is running it on the stock EFI.
The issue is this: when we set the distributor correctly (rotor pointing to cylinder 1 at TDC), it won't start. When we set it two teeth off, it runs (points roughly to cylinder 5), but according to the timing light, it's about 60° advanced.
Now, I'm judging TDC by the marks on the crank. Is it possible that he's put the crank pulley on incorrectly? IIRC, they're keyed, and there's a keyed washer behind it as well. It's (the pulley) torqued correctly, so it shouldn't be wandering, even if the woodruff key is gone.
I'm at wit's end with this POS. Any ideas?
-
The head gasket I listed was a late-model L20ET unit. The bores are oval. If you have the stock L24 bores, the fire ring will be cutting across the edges of the cylinders and hanging in the combustion chamber.
It is only for the L20A bore, with the larger diameter of the 'oval' apparently for people who want to install L28 Valves into the small bore L20A...and then consequently relieve the hell out of the block for clearance!
It's an L20A - only part. Sorry!
FWIW, I generally get around equal pricing locally from the Nissan dealership here (with my Z club discount) to what's available from nissanparts.cc.
-
E31's aren't a dime a dozen, but they're not hyper-expensive either. If the head is straight and the other issues fixed, I would be inclined to just run some cam tower shims and drive it. If it's going to cost hundreds of dollars to fix it and then you need a valve job etc on top of that, I'd go find another one. I wouldn't to the thick head gasket, as it moves the head out of the quench zone and so it might be more ping prone with the thick headgasket than without.
I was going to do the valve job in any event, because it seems every E-31 I can find around here is subject to enough **** built up on the back of the valves, or detonation in #6, or wiped cam lobes that I'm better off just scooping it up and dropping it at the shop.
I'm really just curious whether the plugs were in danger of being smacked.
-
So, after a bout with a sticky intake valve that kissed a piston in my L24, I resolved to rebuild my E31 head.
Back in '08, when I was rebuilding the car after an accident, I had the head checked for flatness, and it was a bit off, so they cut 0.003" off. The shop I took it to this time (to do guides and seats) told me that the height is is 4.227" high, 0.008" below the minimum height of 4.235", and that the previous mill job(s?, at least one of which must have happened sometime before I took ownership) was/were done badly (their fly cutter picked up a repair weld around the water jacket in the back and grooved the head around #6).
The only other evidence of previous repair besides height is the #6 intake seat is steel instead of brass (like 1-5). The exhaust seats are all steel.
I'm not sure where to go from here. Is the head scrap? Will I have to shim the cam bearings when I get it back? Is 0.011" below minimum height enough that my plugs are going to collide with pistons? Will I forever have to run 8000 octane to prevent detonation (detonation isn't an issue now)?
They want to cut it .003" more and push me into some MLS head gasket (I know Tomei does a 1 and 1.2mm head gasket, but the bore is set for L28).
Setup: L24 (P30), flat-top pistons, stock rods, stock crank, E31 head (apparently too short ever since I bought the damned thing), SU carbs w/SM needles, and 6-1 MSA header into mandrel bent 2.5" exhaust
-
front and back .
You talking about the cam seals? There aren't any O-rings on the back of the intake sprocket.
-
No, Not true. The main trouble is that these specialized engines have the ECU's specifically programmed to run the engine to high performance. An aftermarket managment system may be able to make it work, and might even support some of the functions like the VVT and maybe even the VVEL but it'll take a LOT of tuning to get even a Haltech to run an engine like these at the same level that the stock ECU does. For the price of the Haltech or other and the tuning, it would be cheaper to just pull the stock electronics and harnesses and use that. If it all comes from the same car you shouldn't even have to have the key reprogrammed.
MS + tuning = $1500, on the outside. How much do all the additional BCM, BDSM, harnesses, etc. cost for a VQ or VR?
-
there are seals/o-rings on CVT cam sprockets . check on the backside of the sprocket . might want to put some dye in the motor and run it until starts to leak , use UV ( black light ) light to detect leak , if you can get one . good luck
The O-rings are actually right up front. All you have to do is undo the 4 8mm bolts on the front of the intake cam. Be prepared, though, as there are springs under there, and they will shoot the damned thing off at you.
-
Very pretty, a twin turbo VR38 would rock, but these are sans a lot of the extras you'd still need to run it, in addition to the motor, you'd need the dash harness/ecu the BCU the engine harness, the power dist, the KEY programmed, the fuse boxes. Not to mention most of the accessories. by this point you'll still be in the range of buying a wrecked GTR and swapping from that. My point is that yes you can get an engine, and maybe cheaper than this, but it's always going to need more than JUST the ECU and engine harness. Getting a whole Donor is highly recommended. Now I would LOVE to see a VR38 in an S30, that would rock, and Yes the R200 can handle the power.
If you were going to use the VR38 gauges, it's a whole additional set of parts on top of that.
Surely there are engine management options besides the stock ECU...
-
The cost for labor at most shops will be under $200, the whole package of mandrel bends is no more than that. All depends on how fancy you want to get with the mufflers. I would be hard pressed to spend more than $500 on the exhaust using conventional mufflers with ricer tips. And that's taking it to the corner muffler shop. Got a torch? Weld it yourself and save $200 --- it ain't rocket science!
As usual, Tony's right.
I did mine with this (well, actually there were two 180° bends...) :
Tacked:
TIG'ed (since it was stainless):
Installed:
-
Altitude and octane go hand in hand. You shouldn't need a retune (from what I'm assuming is a tune for 93), because you won't be making as much boost at altitude.
The difference in air pressure from Sugar Land, TX (82 ft) and Denver, CO (5200 ft) is about 2.5PSI, meaning that the pressure ratios in the compressor map for your turbo are going to be cut down in multiples of 2.5 (e.g. where the pressure ratio was 2 before meant 14.5PSI, now it means 12PSI, 3 before meant 29PSI, now it means 24PSI, etc).
I haven't the slightest how this "snow" stuff works, though. If a single flake sticks to the ground here in Albuquerque, the city is paralyzed and all the businesses are closed.
What does your stereo system look like?
in Interior
Posted
Mine looks like this:
https://imgur.com/gallery/iMzF2