Jehannum

Mine looks like this: https://imgur.com/gallery/iMzF2

I met John around the 2008 MSA shindig, and have a few of his parts on my car. I'm just gutted to hear about this.

Thanks!

Hey all, '71 240Z with electrical issues here. My coolant circuit sprung a leak, right over the starter. This shorted everything to ground, and ended up letting the smoke out of both the fusible link (between the white w/red stripe harness wire and the starter) and the ammeter. I'm swapping over to a '76 volt meter, so the interior stuff is taken care of, but I need to replace the fusible link. It looks to my eye like a 10 or a 12ga. wire, but I figured I'd tap the brain trust here since one of you probably knows it off hand (and since searching fusible linke gauge returns nothing...). Of note is the fact that I have a rear-mounted battery with a kill switch behind the license plate (the alternator charging wire runs to the kill switch instead of the starter).

I'd start troubleshooting here. It will involve ripping at least half your dash apart, though.

There's also a small pleated tube that takes in air from the driver's side dashboard. If that pulled off of its vent boss, you'll likely see a similar issue. edit: if you set the temp all the way to 90°F (the max setting), it should bypass temperature sensing altogether. What happens when you do that? If it gets warm, then you've got a sensor issue. If not, you've got a mechanical issue (mix door or vent door).

I just grounded the battery to the floor of the hatch, and then grounded the starter body to the original post on the firewall (where the smaller wire connected originally). Grounding nets are overrated.

Thanks. The Z32 is about due for paint jail (I've almost got the engine bay stripped enough to call it ready), and I'll be laying paint on it soon. Eric (sq_creations on here) tuned it this year, and it made ~430HP before I decided to tear it down again. I'm hoping that with a functioning boost controller (not limited to ~13PSI), I can make slightly better numbers than that.

Thanks. I can hardly believe how nice it came out after being sandwiched in '09.

I don't have any pics. The basic arrangement should be the same on any Z31 pulley, though. Of the 3 rows, the rear two are one piece, and the power steering pulley is another (bolted on the front). The bolts go through the PS pulley, through the alt/AC pulley, into the harmonic balancer. The balancer holds the keyway, and the alt/AC pulley holds the timing marks. Since the double row pulley isn't keyed to the balancer in any way, if you take it apart, make sure to reassemble with the timing marks starting right over the top of the keyway (spaced clockwise away from it). I've heard talk of two and three piece pulleys, but I've only ever seen the three piece unit. Car is an '84 NA, and the reference pulley I used came off of (I think) an '86 (two V-belt, one serp for the alternator).

Follow up: The distributor was stabbed correctly, based on the marks on the balancer. The marks on the balancer were wrong. He'd taken the balancer apart to paint the pulleys, and did not reassemble it correctly. Since he had the 3 piece balancer, it was possible to get the timing marks misaligned in increments of (you guessed it!) 60 degrees. I sat it next to a known good one, and the keyway to timing mark relationship was off. I corrected it, and how he's running happily at 20 btdc.

Heh, guess I'm owned then. That would make some sense, then, since the only way the bastard would run would be 60° off.

Cylinder 1 is the front cylinder on the bank opposite the distributor.

I know what TDC is, and we visually verified that the cams are setup right in relation to when the crank says it's at TDC. When the distributor is set the right way, pointing at cylinder 1, it won't fire at all when we try to turn it over.

I'm helping a friend with the VG in his Z31. He's done a basic NA build, and is running it on the stock EFI. The issue is this: when we set the distributor correctly (rotor pointing to cylinder 1 at TDC), it won't start. When we set it two teeth off, it runs (points roughly to cylinder 5), but according to the timing light, it's about 60° advanced. Now, I'm judging TDC by the marks on the crank. Is it possible that he's put the crank pulley on incorrectly? IIRC, they're keyed, and there's a keyed washer behind it as well. It's (the pulley) torqued correctly, so it shouldn't be wandering, even if the woodruff key is gone. I'm at wit's end with this POS. Any ideas?

$35 each FWIW, I generally get around equal pricing locally from the Nissan dealership here (with my Z club discount) to what's available from nissanparts.cc.

I was going to do the valve job in any event, because it seems every E-31 I can find around here is subject to enough **** built up on the back of the valves, or detonation in #6, or wiped cam lobes that I'm better off just scooping it up and dropping it at the shop. I'm really just curious whether the plugs were in danger of being smacked.

So, after a bout with a sticky intake valve that kissed a piston in my L24, I resolved to rebuild my E31 head. Back in '08, when I was rebuilding the car after an accident, I had the head checked for flatness, and it was a bit off, so they cut 0.003" off. The shop I took it to this time (to do guides and seats) told me that the height is is 4.227" high, 0.008" below the minimum height of 4.235", and that the previous mill job(s?, at least one of which must have happened sometime before I took ownership) was/were done badly (their fly cutter picked up a repair weld around the water jacket in the back and grooved the head around #6). The only other evidence of previous repair besides height is the #6 intake seat is steel instead of brass (like 1-5). The exhaust seats are all steel. I'm not sure where to go from here. Is the head scrap? Will I have to shim the cam bearings when I get it back? Is 0.011" below minimum height enough that my plugs are going to collide with pistons? Will I forever have to run 8000 octane to prevent detonation (detonation isn't an issue now)? They want to cut it .003" more and push me into some MLS head gasket (I know Tomei does a 1 and 1.2mm head gasket, but the bore is set for L28). Setup: L24 (P30), flat-top pistons, stock rods, stock crank, E31 head (apparently too short ever since I bought the damned thing), SU carbs w/SM needles, and 6-1 MSA header into mandrel bent 2.5" exhaust

You talking about the cam seals? There aren't any O-rings on the back of the intake sprocket.

MS + tuning = $1500, on the outside. How much do all the additional BCM, BDSM, harnesses, etc. cost for a VQ or VR?

The O-rings are actually right up front. All you have to do is undo the 4 8mm bolts on the front of the intake cam. Be prepared, though, as there are springs under there, and they will shoot the damned thing off at you.

Surely there are engine management options besides the stock ECU...

As usual, Tony's right. I did mine with this (well, actually there were two 180° bends...) : http://moksha.homelinux.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=16136&g2_serialNumber=2 Tacked: http://moksha.homelinux.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=16278&g2_serialNumber=2 TIG'ed (since it was stainless): http://moksha.homelinux.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=16281&g2_serialNumber=2 Installed: http://moksha.homelinux.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=16294&g2_serialNumber=2

Altitude and octane go hand in hand. You shouldn't need a retune (from what I'm assuming is a tune for 93), because you won't be making as much boost at altitude. The difference in air pressure from Sugar Land, TX (82 ft) and Denver, CO (5200 ft) is about 2.5PSI, meaning that the pressure ratios in the compressor map for your turbo are going to be cut down in multiples of 2.5 (e.g. where the pressure ratio was 2 before meant 14.5PSI, now it means 12PSI, 3 before meant 29PSI, now it means 24PSI, etc). I haven't the slightest how this "snow" stuff works, though. If a single flake sticks to the ground here in Albuquerque, the city is paralyzed and all the businesses are closed.