zforce
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Posts posted by zforce
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The clevis pin for the pedal to MC rod connection can get a notch worn in it. This will click. I had the problem and anew pin fixed it. They were still available from Nissan a couple of years ago.
http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/brake/brake-clutch-pedal
8 73 and later - http://www.courtesyparts.com/oe-nissan/46123h850a
Also the hole the clevis pin goes though can wear causing the clicking too.
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Hey all
Today I'll be spending time on my back under my Z.
I had posted my suspicions on other posts where members have raised concerns about driveshaft bolts coming loose(mine are still tight).
I have always suspected that this is due to drive shaft angles...
I have now driven my Z 1,300 miles - it's ok if I stay under 65 but as you approach 70 it starts to have a sound vibration resonance, then by 80 mph it vibrates pretty bad...
I think the solution will be a combination of the RT mount (which I already have) and lowering the rear tranny mount to reduce the upward angle slightly (I have the 280z mount)
I would like to know if others have experienced this issue.
I have also slotted the holes in my tranny mount so I have adjustment from side to side....
What are the optimal angles and what is the best way to achieve them? I guess I'm going to have to invest in a good laser angle finder. I have researched and found the the angles have to be equal front to rear and they cannot exceed 3 degrees...
Something is out of balance or you could have a u-joint going bad causing the vibration.Or one of your wheels is bent,try rotating the tires and see if the vibration moves up front.
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I have a 1972 240Z. Pretty much stock L24 but i do have 2.25 diameter exhaust piping running from the stock headers and with a Magnaflow muffler.
Now be aware that I am pretty new to carbureted engines and I've been told that they do need warming up.
But what boggles my mind is that I was at a meet today with another 240Z with pretty much same setup except he was able to just start his car and drive off with no problem. Whenever i try that, my car would struggle and sometimes the engine would die out. Even if i were to just rev my engine while the car is parked, it would make a pop sound and the engine would cut out for a moment but then continue to run.
Once my car is at normal running temperature though, it would run perfectly fine. Is there something wrong?
any input would help.
Make sure your nozzles are dropping when you pull the choke lever, also check your mixture, might be slightly lean.
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Yeah there should be a plate between the bellhousing and engine, it's not very thick but i emagine it's enough to cause binding without it. And definitely get rid of the direct drive starter, use a gear reduction type from an 81-83 ZX. Go to the bone yard and get one for about 20.00 bucks, chances are it will be original and should last for years.
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Works perfectly, just remove mallory breaker plate and install pertronix breaker plate. Ignitor is rivited to the breaker plate, unlike the upgrade for stock points dizzy that installs like a set of points.
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It sounds like the car you have came with the mallory, if you were starting with nothing the zx dizzy is the way to go but since you got the mallory might as well use it. I got mine for 100.00 new in the 80's now they are like 600 bucks F that. Do you have the degree key that comes with the mallory ? this is cool, you can set your advance curve to whatever you want.
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Yes the tach works, the pertronix functions just like points so the tach doesnt know the difference.
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Do you have a volt meter handy ? Check the voltage with key in run postition, should be about 8 volts. I think the msd coil is also supplied with a ballist resistor too.
I got fed up with points and put a pertronix in the mallory dizzy about 6 years ago,very clean installation pertronix ignitor comes with its own breaker plate for the mallory. The only thing I did was epoxy the trigger magnets in place instead of using the green tape thats starts to peel after awhile.
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Sounds like the condenser is bad, make sure wiring is correct,power to coil should not be more than about 8 volts. Are you using mallory coil? It should come with its own ballist resistor that you must run in series with stock resistor.
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Just get a piece of chaulk and mark the output flange and count how many turns of the driveshaft it takes to make one turn of the output flange, easy to ballpark what you have without getting that nasty hypoid oil all over the place.
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Sorry I thought I posted what being ramp checked is. Most general aviation airports have an FSDO flight standards district office run by the FAA. What they do is cruise the airports and do random checks. They check airmans certificates, ask you questions about where you are going, check inside your aircraft. Basically what amounts to a traffic stop. The chance of being ramp checked is remote, but I thought you should know what goes on at an airport.
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Yeah, it might take a little of both, but if you keep the revs up and don't run to rich it should be ok for a while. I fly a Cessna 172 that has a huge problem fouling plugs during taxi operations prior to take off, so I lean it out for taxi then set my mixture just before being cleared for take off.
When I was using the avgas in my Z with the stock engine it would foul pretty quick, but I think that was due to low compression ratio. If you are running high compression 11 or 12 the avgas will work better, avgas in a stock motor is useless but I love the way it smells when it burns.
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Running avgas on the street is the same as boot legging, there are a bunch of taxes that don't get paid. But as has been said before the self serve is great with a couple of gas cans. I would reccommend doing it at night because you could get ramp checked by the FEDS, and if you don't have a real good story the next 8 to 12 hours of your life will belong to them.
Back in the 90's I worked at kvny Van Nuys Airport when Chevron had a distribution problem at one of their refineries and accidently mixed avgas with jet-A, every piston aircraft pilot was begging us to de-fuel thier planes, needless to say we had more avgas than we knew what to do with.
The only problem with running avgas on the street is prolonged idling in traffic will cause lead fouling on the plugs about every 3 to 5 k miles. Don't use expensive plugs and it wont hurt so bad.
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Yessir no difference,but why do you only want to change the one rod ? why not all of them ?
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If you want to use the 260Z air cleaner with the early SU's Z therapy has an adaptor.
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So what do you go to a proctologist for that?Damm boy that is nasty.
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Arhh. I remember that feeling so well. It is all down hill from here mate, (or is it uphill), you now have the audio bug. You will not only be working two jobs just to pay for your Z modifications, you will now be working them to upgrade your stereo.
My music preference changed drastically after I got decent speakers. I use to listen to a lot of rock music, my favourite band was smashing pumpkins. After I got my B&Ws I realised that all my favourite CDs sounded like crap as the recording quality was so poor. Nothing like a really good quality recording.
You will find that there are a few recordings so clean that it doesn't matter how loud you turn them up, it can still be listened too comfortably.
Lastly, don't turn your amp off, just mute it, unless your not going to listen for a good week, my Electrocompaniet hasn't been turned off in a good 6 months. And give stereo a run for a while. I was so impressed with how a well recorded stereo track could sound (Even on movies) that I haven't bothered going with surrounds. In fact I upgraded from a 7 channel amp to a stereo amp. Haven't even decided if I'll do surrounds yet.
So true about turning off amp,I never turn it off,ever.Only time I shut it off is when t-storms are forecast or if I am moving. Your system will sound better and last longer it you leave it on.
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Check out the sunfire super junior
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Nice start!
I like to listen to a lot of different music, but like Holly Cole (Don't Smoke in Bed is one) and One Stanley Clark album - East River Drive.
I have Martin Logan Quest speakers driven by an OCM 500 amp, my surround speakers are driven by an Aragon 8008x3. They are all Definitive Technology speakers.
My Preamp/Processor is an Acurus ACT3 with the 7.1 upgrade.
You like Martin Logan,iether you love them or you hate them.No problem,speakers are very personal,don't mess with another mans speakers. I love Stanley Clark, my East River Drive cd got stolen from my Honda along with some Spyro Gyra bastards.
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Nakamichi Ca 7a pre-amp
Nakamichi Pa 7a pwr-amp
Sony CdpX7-es cd player
Sony Dtc-60es Dat player
Nht 2.5 speakers
B&W 800asw sub
Infinity rs video center
Optimus pro-lx5II rears that's right Radio Shack
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Don't put too much Momo on your car or the next morning you have Nomo car.
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Ok,how many miles are on the engine?if there are alot of miles you run the risk of blow-by.fresh valve job on a high time engine is risky and can prove to be a waste of time.Unless you are going for a concours car why not put an L-28 in there.Everything else swappes over and unless you look real hard you can hardly tell the differance.
Personally I run an L-28 bottom,E-31 head with 280Z valves,cam is one that works well with SU carbs dont know about stage this or stage that,I just know it runs like a scalded cat.During the build up I used diesel maxima main cap bolts,280ZX turbo head bolts(advantage higher torque spec)ZX turbo oil pump,Mallory distributor with pertronix ignitor,lightend 280Z flywheel,"B" 4-speed,,dont ask why I dont run a 5-speed,rear end has 3:70 gears.
Other parts include ceramic coated header 2.5" exhaust straight back to dynomax super turbo muffler,3row radiator with electric fan(advantage water pump lasts 3 days past forever). Other things I have done,when prepping the block I blocked off the oil filter pressure relief valve and installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge(advantage all oil must pass though the filter,mechanical pressure gauge gives instant pressure readings)
I hope this gives you a good picture,best of luck to you on your build up.
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Pretty sure MSA has them http://www.zcarparts.com
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Ok, that makes sense.But 6 gallons is only 36 pounds,is the weight of the larger tank really that much heavier?
Freshly rebuilt L28/N42 puffing smoke
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
When starting off from a stop is when bad valve guide seals leak the most. With the proper tools replacing the seals is about a 3.5 hour job. Mine lasted about 15 years on a Top-End Performance built head. If you change them out and it's still smoking the valve guides themselves might be the problem. Kd tools no longer makes the valve spring compressor but you might be able to find one on e-bay. When I built my engine I don't recall any smoking due to rings not seating, my experience was the motor ran a little hot for about 300 miles but no smoking.