pshepard327ci

Perfect, that looks much nicer. I didnt even know those existed. Thanks, saved me from doing something stupid.

Will that be able to hold over time with just a thread or two tapped in that hole, its not very think sheet metal. That fix sounds perfect if it was thicker material, its just that box sub frame are that the rear diff front cross member bolts to. Just making sure before buying a $75 tool. Here is a pic of the bolt. Borrowed from Z-Tech Tips:

I just finished bolting up my r200 rear-end with all new bushing and i had to use some significant prying to get the rear cross member to line up with the bolt holes. When i went to put the final outside bolt on the cross member the bolt just went all the way in, it appears the nut that was welded on the backside was snapped off or something. Any ideas on how to fix that? The only think i can think of is cutting the rear frame and welding another nut there, that doesn't sound like any fun. Maybe tap the hole for threads?

I have also been interested in seeing if anyone has used these. I guess the advised install would be to bolt them up using the flange and then fiberglass them to the body? I was envisioning having them installed so there would be no seam.

Amazing job on the car, i have always had a soft spot for a mean looking orange and black combination on these cars and you pulled it off pretty close to what i have envisioned mine one day looking like.

Must be a sign from above, i just came in from outside sanding spots that look like they will need extra work and i sanded through the bondo on the drivers/side dogleg and barely hit any metal before a good couple fist fulls of sand like material came pouring out like an hourglass. I guess i will be ordering the doglegs also. Anyone is Houston wanna share there talent at metal work, or have some of these body pieces hanging around!?!? I offer cold beers and bbq!! I will give it a try to make that part, i have read on metalmeet about how to go about shaping it so i guess i gotta start somewhere.

I found this part through tabco, is this the section i would need behind the rear tire? "Rear Quarter Lower Rear Section 10H: 167 52 L-R 39.95" Is there somewhere that sells that read valence area, but i might be able to mend that area with a patch or two, its the rounded part i dont think i can do very well.

Question number two, still on rust topic... What gauge sheet should i use to patch this. I know this is a main problem area and i removed the reinforcement plate and it doesn't look bad at all inside, so do i just get some 20g and weld it over after I spray some primer in there, or go with 18g? Right now i have 22g that i used for a hatch repair and probably will use it on a small rust spot on fender. Unless this sounds like a bad idea on the exterior panels.

I am in the process of tearing down my 70 240z and also finding lots of hidden treasures that im sure most people who have made this journey before me have also found. Well the rear of the z was already shaved when i purchased it and i want to keep it that way. I am not the best sheet metal fabricator but am willing to try anything. What are you guys suggestions on repairing this. I have done a patch panel already and i think it went pretty good, but this rounded corner seems hard. I thought i saw a pre-made patch that was available but i dont know if i can get both of these, the rear bottom part of quarter behind the rear wheel and the valance is the back. Also if you look at the first pic is that bronze solder the PO used to fix/attach something?

I ordered the 3830711 GM Gasket, .026 compressed through http://www.superchevyperformance.com/Default.asp, not to bad on price, turned out cheaper than the Victor Reinz for the same thickness. I dont need to be worried about the GM saying bore size 4.00" when i have a 30 over block? Thanks again Peter for pointing me in right direction.