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col10see

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About col10see

  • Rank
    Regular
  • Birthday 12/04/1986

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    salt lake, ut
  1. All together minus intercooler 40 $ eBay, I'd say less than 600$ all diy fab except the alum bends and couplings turbo was like 250 $ worked like a charm.. I had less than optimal compression so it didn't spin tires uncontrollably. It only spun if I made it. I recently sold it though:( but I got a nice well taken care of old man's 350z instead:)... I miss it now and then.
  2. Wow this is old...but....updates or where is the other half?
  3. Found this http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/45414-gulp-fmu/page-3 Im not surs if the people are using na injectors or turbo Acording to this theory and my math I need to run a 12:1 fmu and be into the 130s psi @ 10psi boost(i dont have my paper with me I will edit this with my info.... But according to what the guy says to be at 95psi @ 11psi boost, I would really want like a 6:1 Also note the compression ratio given at example... I used the comp ratio of 8.3
  4. I guess so. Gabriel replacements from ghetozone.. not OEM from nissan.
  5. Over the weekend I decided to do my struts. Strut rod bushings and control arm bushings I also replaced all my springs with st springs but they were too low so I added some spring spacerz. Whole different driving experience now! .
  6. Same here new alternator fixed it up... it was like 50$ from autozone and had a lifetime warranty...acdelco I think but no problems since
  7. Im thinking I want to lean it out a little low end any pressure recommendations for the turbo injectors. From what ive gathered its 36psi at idle with no vac... Also if I do that im guessing I want to get a fmu what ratio for 13 psi. 5:1? Hopfully soon I can find some doner dished pistons and rebuild the motor. Also heres a pic of the the turbo blanket..
  8. wrapping the dp and puting on a tubo blanket made a big difference in under hood temps

  9. Between the afm and the inlet of the compressor. In the long run I would like to route my intake/air filter in front of the radiator to start with cooler air in stead of sucking in hot air right off the radiator. Though it may be a negligible air temp diference by the time it passes through the turbo. And I would also like to put the afm near the stock location so I can get easier access if I need to tweek it a little.
  10. Air moving into the inlet side of the compressor housing I also get that the bov needs to be on the pressurized side of the compressor side of the turbo, to release pressure, thats why I put it on the pressurized side of the compressor.
  11. So I tightened the afm spring about 7 cogs.And noticed a pretty big drivability difference. Less hesitation after shifts and it doesn't smell like someone is chasing me with a can of gas. And I am also getting better readings from my a/f guage I did however turn up the fuel fressure to about 36psi idle and it hits about 50psi under full boost without dropping out of rich territory under wot. I would like to redirect the bov after the afm to see if this will help fight false air flow readings and help the rest of the hesitation after shifts under lighter boost or no boost. At 3-10psi, it
  12. I wrapped my dp with dei header wrap back to were the flange will go for the cat so I can remove it whenever and it will make it a little easier to do exhaust work come tim to put in a 3" exhaust. This stuff works great. Im going to wrap the manifold when I switch out the pistons. And I am waiting for my turbo blanket to get here as well ill ad pictures of that once I get it on.
  13. starting to leak oil.... but from were? timing cover or head gasket

  14. Im an idiot I left my cooling fan control switch unbolted when I put in the ic tubing. And go figure it grounded out.. I fixed the problem that it caused. But just wanted to post this in case something like this happens to anyone else... So the switch is direct to pos+ on the battery and when I unbolted it I though I had secured it well enough... not so, it ended up grounding out on the fenderwell and now the battery wasnt charging above 12v and the dash lights were staying on as if i hadnt started the car but would turn off after like 4min and the come back on at idle... probley no
  15. Just an update so far no issues been about 200miles or so and no issues. Also I replaced the bolts on the driveline with some new ones and the shakes are gone too. So out of the whole mess it ended up working out. Thanks for all the help!
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