RagingPanda

I thinking valves issue also http://youtube.com/watch?v=lSqJ9TRPslk

I'm not familiar with the L28 engine so i couldn't tell if this is normal or not. Watch the clip and you will know what I'm talking about. New plugs, new wires, new distributor and rotor. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oyf2HpCvKCY

i guess they didn't acid it because they had it for several days after boiled.

$84 for me but I don't know if they acided it and what's not.

Hirsch Auto, mainly because of the price. I think they both will work so eh.

Update: I got the tank back from a radiator shop, looking nice and clean. I also got a quart of gas tank sealer. This may be a stop question but I have to take out the sending unit with the floater before I put the sealer in? I just want to make sure.

A shop is currently boiling my tank right now. I was going to let them do the coating/sealing also but they charge me $120 for it....yea. I searched on Hybridz and found three brands I can use to do it myself. http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=TS&dept=12 http://www.hirschauto.com/prodinfo.asp?number=GTS or epoxy post by technomancer in http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108964&highlight=gas+tank+paint Which one should I buy or is there a cheaper alternative locally I can get without waiting for it to get it? thank you.

I changed it to Maxifuse but the problem is still there. I think it's fuel system. I will change the fuel filter tomorrow and see if that will help.

Out of the blue whenever I step on the gas the car will choke real hard and die, but it idles just fine. I really don't know what's the problem is. I have Taylor's 8mm wires, new plugs, new distributor cap, new distributor rotor. Sometime the car is fine then other times it's like what I described. I think it's my fusible links and I'm planning to convert it to Maxifuses. Is there another area to look into or my guess is right on the dot. The car is 78 280z

It was a bad alternator and bad cell in the battery so it works fine now. But I don't know why my voltage metter isn't working anymore along with the cd player. The new alternator has a little copper cylinder that runs from the left to the right on the back. I asked them and they said it's a universal part that reduces noise. So should I take it out or just put it there?

from what I read there's no external regulator. It's inside the alternator

the car is 78 280z

I have a brand new alternator and battery from autozone. While the car is running they checked for me and it won't get pass 12.29. I thought the alternator is bad so I took it out and got tested at autozone and it passed all the tests. I don't know what's the problem is. All the connectors are nice n clean. So now my battery is dead and autozone won't let me get a new alternator because it passed all the tests.

I converting a 280z auto to a manual from a 79. I got everything on the car except the master cylinder. Which master do I use, 280z or 79 280zx?

nm I'm an idiot...my ebrake was on...yea.

I did the 5spd swap and I installed the tranny and the driveshaft also, but I haven't put in the alternator or the wiring for the tranny. Before I go on I've tried to rotate the driveshaft to make sure it's ok but it won't move. I'm pretty sure it was in neutral. What should I do? Did something go wrong when I put the transmission on? I want to know so I can continue without breaking anything. thanks. The car is 1978 280Z