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cdscowboy

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  1. Rust can be hard thing to stop entirely. You can slow it down, but unless you take pretty much all the pieces (welded ones as well) off and remove the rust, there will always be some there. Since you plan on doing new frame rails anyways, get what you can with whatever tools you're able to get. Remove as much rust as possible and get something like Rust Mort if you can find it. It brushes on and you wipe it the next day with a wet rag, then blow off the water with an air nozzle. If you can't find that, there's spray paints out there that are designed to go over rusty areas (but not scale). I'm not talking about Rustoleum or any of that - that'll help a little, but not much. Go to an automotive paint supply store and see what they can find for you. ...and if your rails are this bad, I wouldn't want to be driving much in the next year. No doubt not having a bottom to your frame rail will affect the structural integrity of the car. Good luck.
  2. Hey Pharoah thanks for the informative reply. I'm well aware of how newbs are perceived regardless of whether or not they've been on other boards before With that said, different boards organize and use different descriptions of topics, making it difficult to always know the right search terms. But I'll do my best. I'm not necessarily set on the Tokico's, but they seemed like a step up from OEM replacement with a little bit of lowering, which sounds perfect to me. I enjoy a spirited drive as much as the next guy, but I don't need a car that I can't drive on the street comfortably. Plus the whole "all-in-one" kit has its appeal. If there's other setups that would fit this description, I'm all ears (as well as searching myself). I don't mind buying shocks/springs separately as long as I get good results in a reasonable timeframe. Boy, do I know about things not being happy bolt on, rainbows, butterflies, and reach-arounds. There's always work involved. I know the new engine runs and drives - it's still in the pickup (CK, not S10). I figure on transferring over all the ecm and associated wiring. Most of the Z wiring I'm assuming will be taken out. The trans was purchased separately, but is in good condition, and will get new fluid and gasket before it goes in. The only reason to do the suspension and bushings now is that it's easier to get to all the bushings without the motor (and weight) in there. It already had a TH350 in it from the previous previous owner, so I'd assume the smaller-housing 200r4 will fit without too much hassle. As I mentioned in my initial post, I found a deal on another JTR kit, and that included a flange for the differential that makes the driveshaft 100% Chevy, albeit shortened. A coworker is giving me a driveshaft that he was about to throw out since it was taking up space. Hopefully the yoke is the same (should be). Just have to get that measured, shortened, and balanced. I do remember reading that that Subaru rear diff was a good swap. If I ever decide to get more power out of the v6, I'll give the diff some thought, but I'm not worried about it for now. As far as the fuel system, I know I'll need an electric fuel pump. Are the stock lines sufficient? Thanks for your help and patience. I'll keep on that search button. Here's a few pics as I purchased it, and the engine bay after a quick refresh in satin black. It ain't the prettiest, but it'll hold the motor just fine.
  3. While I'd love to have a manual, the auto is what's available to me and I'm all about just driving it. I'm not overly concerned with gobs of power.
  4. Hey all. Hoping that this is the right part of the forums to post this sorta stuff in. Anyways, I picked up a '73 Z about a month ago at the Portland Swap Meet for a steal. It had some of the parts for a V8 conversion, which is what initially sold me (as that's what I wanted to do eventually anyhow). Come to find out it was missing some key pieces...motor mount setbacks being one of them. Found another kit on craigslist and picked it up. Golden. The body is in pretty decent condition considering what I've seen when looking at other Z's for sale. Little rust, some hackjob metal work, but nothing I can't repair. I build hot rods for a living, so welding's no big thing. Brakes seem firm, as does steering. I'll cut to the chase. I've searched, read FAQs, and would've ordered by now if Tokico wasn't having issues. I have questions - but first, my plan. Chevy v6 out of a '94 pickup (father-in-law's - free!) with 200r4 trans. Energy Suspension bushing set ST sway bars front and rear I WAS going to get that Tokico HP kit that's everywhere on the internets, but alas. My questions: Does this seem like a reasonable set up for a 98% street car? I have no plans to race or drag. Just want a driver that's got good, solid handling. Since Tokico's a ways out, and I want to be on the road ASAP, what's another decent substitute? I don't think I need coilovers, and am a bit nervous about sleeving a brand new set of shocks. I was thinking KYB Gas-a-Just. Any thoughts and opinions are helpful. It seems like a lot of you guys set your cars up for the track, so it's hard to find info with a swap AND having it be a street car. Don't worry, I'll keep searching and reading. I've got my flamesuit on anyways.
  5. I am! And I'm (relatively?...not really...) close! PM me with details.
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