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About 2eighTZ4me

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  • Birthday 09/30/1966

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  • Location
    Lawrenceville, Ga.
  • Interests
    Cars, bars, and guit-tars.

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  1. Thanks Richard. I came across the motherlode of an article explaining the err of my ways....think I'm good now. On the way out to go wire it up 'properly' now....thanks again for the reply! http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Wiring/Part2/
  2. Just got my LS6 up and running using MS3Pro and the DIYAutoTune drop on LSx 24 harness. From the harness, there is 1 wire that goes to the alternator to activate a low charging light. That's the only wire on the plug. The alternator I got reman from RockAuto (98-02 Camaro) was tested fine at AutoZone. The alternator will not charge. I have the hot lug run back to a fuse block where all the large gauge wires centralize from the battery. I tried running a wire from the 'sense' pin on the alternator back to the fuse block so the system has 'reference' voltage, but that didn't work either.
  3. Greaaaaaat....just what I did NOT want to hear. Does it weld to the frame rails or something? I see no provisions for using the stock hangers....
  4. MECH-E - any word on the transmission mount? I just got mine from Hawk's, and I'm really wondering how this thing is going to work.
  5. I have gotten the windage tray drilled out. I'm hoping this should be sufficient per johnc's instructions. (I can always do more if anyone thinks there's any benefit to that.) Also put back in the factory oil galley jets to the head.
  6. Tony D - the engine does NOT have an AccuSump - but it will before it gets fired up next time. My problem was not bearing failure on startup. My problem was under extended high RPM runs, all the oil would go upstairs to the head, and I starved the bottom end. I have since put the factory oil restrictors back in the block, and have drilled 4x 1" holes in the passenger side of the windage tray to allow quicker flow back to the pan. John mentioned that earlier. I live in the South, and most of the time I got to the track, it's 70-90+ degrees outside. No need for a pan heater - plus, I let the car
  7. Oil pump is basically brand new. There wasn't 500 miles on the motor. Brand new Melling pump for a turbo automatic - the high volume pump.
  8. Tony D. - Specifically, what brand and weight of synthetic are you running / recommend? John - so just move the quarters to the other side of the pan, and let it rip?
  9. Sorry to dredge up this post from the past, but a nasty, expensive divorce kinda got in the way. I finally got all my stuff back from the machine shop, and have obtained a new stroker crank. So - here's the pan with the tray laying on top of where it's supposed to go. Crank spins clockwise if you're looking at the front of the motor (counterclockwise if you're sitting in the driver seat) - so most of the oil is getting thrown at the driver's side of the pan. Is this where I'm supposed to drill the holes? Looks like I have room for a fourth toward the back of th
  10. I am about to get underway with an LS6 swap. I purchased the motor, and it came with the entire engine bay harness. The motor is out of a 2004 Cadillac CTS-V. I am dropping it in to my 240 track car, which is currently run by MegaSquirt MS2. Would I be better off trying to use the connectors off the Caddy's engine bay harness and adapting them to the relay board, or trying to figure out a way to wire up each individual input? I am still researching all of this, and am an extreme newbie at the LS swap. Thought I'd throw that out there. Thanks!
  11. Following this thread. About to do a LS6 swap in my 240 - this couldn't have come at a better time! Thanks for all your input.
  12. Just about to undergo an LS6 swap, and was wondering if anyone has used the Collins Adapter to mate a 350Z CD009 tranny to their LS setup? Also curious how the transmission handles the power. I have read this is the cheaper alternative to the T56, so I'm curious who has done it and if any recommendations are in order.
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