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jgkurz

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Posts posted by jgkurz

  1. Yes I used a .82 for several years then switched to a .63. The car accelerated much quicker with the .63. i just switched back to the .82 to get more top end. I'm taking the car to the drag strip Friday. Hopefully I'm not the slowest car there.

     

    Thanks for the response! I'm hesitant to go to the .82 for the same reason you mentioned. I don't want that.....wait for it..... experience. The new turbo is a GTX3576R so far more efficient than old turbo. This plus having more displacement might spool acceptably with a .82 also with the benefit of more peak HP. It's a tough decision..

  2. Hi All, It's been a while since I've posted. I am going to get my Z back on the road but before I do I am going to upgrade the turbo. I currently run a .63 T3 turbine housing on my 3.0L L6 that got me to 455rwhp and 462rwtq. This was likely with a fair amount of back pressure but with decent spool. I prefer some boost before 3000 rpm. 

     

    I'd really like some feedback from those of you running a .82 A/R turbine housing.

     

    Thank you!

     

    -John

  3. Here is my experience on aftermarket sport seats in my 77 280z.

    Need to keep the stock floorboard the same (due to car value).

    The cat hump can be smashed as the carpet covers it

     

    Ordered Corbeau A4s with Corbeau sliders and brackets. Nothing worked and Corbeau admitted that the 77-78 (coupe) brackets do not work with factory floor boards/bolt pattern.  I returned everything!

     

    Ordered Recaro Speed S seats (Black with Black suede inserts and silver logo)

    Ordered 2 sets of Corbeau single side sliders

    Ordered a set of used factory 77 280z sliders (need to keep factory seat in-tac)

     

    Car is going in the shop on March 18th for installation

    Shop is cutting the 'feet' off the second set of factory slider to use with the Corbeau sliders.

     

    Lets hope this works.  Not a cheap solution, but it will look awesome in preparation for the 2013 convention in New Hampshire!

     

    How'd this turn out? I also have a 77z and will follow your lead if all is well.

     

    -John

  4.  

     

    I could have it damn near perfect in less than an hour. Let me know and I' ll machine buff it out with some Mothers next Tuesday after Labor day. I'll send you some pix.

    DK

     

    Thanks DK but I found a valve cover for sale locally. I appreciate the reply.

     

     

     

  5. I'm looking to buy Hayahshi racing/HRE 505's. MUST BE 15 inches in diameter, 4x114.3, and no cracks or major damages. I don't care what the offset is or the width, or what color.

     

    located in Southern California

     

     

    I am willing to trade my epsilons with tires 9/10 condition re polished 17x9.5 zero offset all around. + some cash on my end if I see necessary.

     

     

    thanks for looking!

     

    Just curious, why wouldn't you want 16"? I am able to get 245-45-16 on HRE 505's under my stock rear fenders. 17's would work but tire size would be much smaller. Finding used 505's will be difficult. HRE will make them new for you but you'll be close to 1500.00/wheel to have them built. I know because I called a while back. :blink:

  6. Wonderful cars must run in the family. 2thumbs.gif

     

    Thanks guys. My Dad worked for Ford for 40yrs in Michigan and just retired so he has never been too excited about my affinity for the Datsun Z. I might compromise and put a boosted stoker 351W in my Z someday and start making some serious HP. :rolleyes:

  7. I flew to Michigan to spend some time with family last week and to attend Ford Fest 2011 at Milan Dragstrip. The day of the event on Saturday was a bust due to weather but Sunday was great and near sea level altitude density. My dad ran a personal best of 9.18 at 146mph on all engine. Not bad for a car without wheel tubs on 10.5" slicks and full interior. The engine is an aluminum 427 side-oiler stroked to 502ci with a single Holley Dominator 4barrel. On a 9.20 dial he ran a 9.22 and lost to a guy that ran exactly his dial-in. Oh well. Still had a ton of fun. Enjoy the video.

     

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WNsTaoyIzyc

     

  8. I just saw the movie "Senna" then came home and watch the Top Gear tribute. It was moving to say the least. In addition to his obvious skill, I was struck by Senna's humility and desire for perfection.

     

    I also learned that Patrick Head, technical director for Williams racing, was officially blamed by the Italian courts for Aryton Senna's death 13 yrs after the accident. He was never charged due to the statute of limitations. Apparently the steering failure was caused by "badly designed and badly executed modifications". Unless there is outright negligence, I find it odd that a F1 senior engineer could be blamed at all let alone 13yrs later. The politics of F1 are significant to say the least.

     

    Another interesting note, according to the movie there have been no deaths in F1 since the changes implemented after Senna's death. Maybe God had a purpose for this gifted driver. I'd like to think Aryton Senna would have seen it that way.

  9. Send it in, JeffP's GT35R will spin after shutdown for a good minute. You can hear it still spinning away freely after all the commotion of the engine is shut down! You can blow in the inlet with a good puff and get it to move.

     

    That's how I expected it to spin. My GT35R is relatively dry of oil which may have an effect. I wonder if oil pressure would make a difference?

  10. The only issue with the GT series turbo's is.. if the center section is bad or anything wrong with it, Im 99@ sure you have to get a whole new center section.

     

    Ugggg. Oh well. I guess I'll wait to see what the expert says.

     

    On another note, I took apart my current turbo and measured both inducers and exducers. Looks like I have a 50 trim compressor and a T350 stage V 10-blade turbine wheel. I use a heavily modified version of the Nissan .63 turbine housing that has been machined to fit the T350 wheel. On the dyno I made 455rwhp. That equates to 536 crank HP if 15% driveline loss is calculated. This matches my 1/4 miles times as well so it seems accurate. I am surprised the 50 trim compressor made the power it did. Cool. Since I need to use my Nissan turbine housing so I don't have to re-invent my DP and external wastegate setup I am going to have the GT35R turbine wheel changed to a T350 wheel. My research suggests the T350 wheel may actually work better than the GT35R turbine wheel. Regardless, they are nearly identical in specs.

  11. Thanks guys.The journal turbo is broke in with probably 10K miles. Now the part I left out. The ball bearing setup is used, not a lot of miles but used nonetheless. It was a friends who upgraded to the new GTX35R. I would think that would be broke in enough to spin more freely than my journal setup. I'll probably have it checked out professionally to be sure.

  12. HI Everyone,

     

    I just purchased a Garrett GT35R ball bearing turbo for my L28ET setup. My current turbo is a T3/4 hybrid that has surpassed my expectations but I knew could never be as efficient as a modern ball bearing turbo. The GT35R is visually larger than the T3/4 which was expected but one thing I was surprised about was how freely the wheel spins. For some odd reason I thought the ball bearing turbo would spin more freely than the journal bearing in my T3/4. It does not. The GT35R spins with about the same resistance as the T3/4. I'm confident my GT35R is a the real deal (not a knock off) but I was surprised is did not really spin more freely.

     

    For those of you with ball bearing setups, is this normal? I'm wondering if I should send it in to be checked out.

     

    -John

  13. I ran a copper gasket for a while, with an o-ringed block. I had some water seepage, but never enough under normal use to cause any problems. I ended up swapping to a multi-layer steel gasket after I blew out the copper one. It actually deformed (under lots of detontation) enough to push past the o-rings.

     

    That's some serious detonation...

     

    Did you go to a Cometic gasket. I hear they are excellent. As a side note, I use a Nissan head gasket with an O ringed block. So far no issues with boost up to 26psi. knock knock knock

  14. Just a little food for thought. In researching intake manifolds and power produced from those that have ran their cars on the Dyno, was able to find quite a few for the Turbo guys, and a handful for the N/A guys. Essentially all of the Turbo guys running the OE EFI intake manifold are making great torque numbers, but the HP to Torque relationship is reminiscent of the mid ‘80’s GM TPI engine or like turbo diesel HP and torque numbers. Huge torque, but it falls off early in the band. Others that are running similar set ups with the only difference being a different or altered intake manifold, their HP numbers fall in line with the torque numbers respectively, i.e. if they are making 500 ft lbs of torque, they are also making in the neighborhood of 500+ HP. The OE intake guys making similar torque figures are typically making mid 300 to low 400 HP. For the N/A EFI crowd, a similar situation holds true. You will find that the fast EFI N/A guys are running some intakes other than the OE intake! (hmm… seems to be a trend here… ) The throttle valve being used, whether it be OE or the monster 90mm Q-45 unit is irrelevant.

     

    Excellent write-up Paul. I learned some stuff and validated info I thought I knew. I have experienced the above engine characteristics first hand with my turbo L28 and and early N42 intake. Peak torque is exceptional since the ports are so small but big HP (500HP+) requires extreme boost or a BIG turbo as compared to a better breathing engine. A more free flowing intake and head would easily make more power with my same turbo. Unfortunately I think I'd have to sacrifice peak torque due to the velocity reduction caused by bigger ports. A benefit would be a flatter torque curve which would make power delivery a dream compared to what I deal with today. Wait for it......wait for it......BAM!!!!

     

    On the other hand, making peak power at 6K or below (due to small ports) is MUCH easier on the L28 with it's long crank vs. folks who spin 7K and above. I've never broke a crank or damper yet. :blink:

  15. Oil samples are most useful when you do them on a regular interval and establish a baseline for your motor, as you use it. As you do more samples and your baseline gets better, you can spot a spike in something which indicates a problem. The combo of oil samples and oil filter inspection really give you a good window into the engine. This works really well at spotting long term wear trends, and sometimes alerts you to a coming catastrophe.

     

    For a first sample, yours looks fine to me. The increased viscosity can be from the age of the oil, or more likely soot contamination, generally from some blowby, pretty common on high performance turbo engines.

     

    The units are in parts per million on all the samples I've seen.

     

    Is the rb26 a roller or flat tappet engine? If flat, you need a oil with more zinc that that.

     

    jt

     

    Jt, what zinc level would be normal to avoid premature wear?

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