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Tomzern

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Everything posted by Tomzern

  1. Thanks for the offer, but I am located in Norway so It's cheaper to find one here
  2. Well I guess I am a cowboy then I just handed my engine mechanic the block and one of the pistons and told him to make it fit. It's my stupid fault of course. Should have done more research, but now it's done. At least it's good to know that there are F54 blocks that are thick enough. I will get it sonic tested and just take it from there. Thanks guys!
  3. Hi! Sooo, I have an ongoing stroker build and just AFTER I got my F54 block resurfaced and bored to 89mm I found out that the best block for an 89mm overbore is the N42 and the F54 is a rather terrible choice for this. Wish I would have found this out before I bored it, but it's already done Now I am stuck with a finished F54 89mm block and I am unsure of what to do next. This engine is going to be a street engine and not a 10000rpm race engine. Is there anyone here who is running an F54 based stroker? Will it almost certainly fail? Any constructive input is appreciated here:) -Tomzern
  4. I did the swap yesterday and can confirm that the only difference between the stock 1970 240Z smog manifold and the W48 manifold is the bolt pattern on the outlet flange. Since I didn't find any info on this subject myself, I might as well make a little guide now if anyone else wants to do this Here is a couple of comparison pics of the two types: Stock on top, W48 bottom The W48 manifold has larger runners compared to the stock one. Don't know you gain anything out of it though. So here is how I solved it. on the W48 manifold the bolts on the outlet flange are 10mm instead of 8mm that the stock one uses. They are also placed further out from the outlet holes, but the pattern and size of the exhaust outlet holes are exactly the same as the stock manifold. I took of the collector pipe and cut the bolt holes out with an angle grinder to allow it to fit the new manifold. Then I mounted it in place and it all fit perfectly! I forgot to take pictures of the modified collector pipe, so here is a quick drawing that shows where to cut: It doesn't look pretty, but it's a cheap and easy way to get rid of the smog manifold
  5. Hi! I have a 1970 240Z with the stock exhaust manifold with emission tubes in it. It is in a bad shape and I think it is leaking when heated up (sounds like a leak from one cylinder). I have a stock manifold from a newer L24e engine with the N47 head, and I am wondering if this manifold will fit the exhaust system on my car? I know it bolts right up to the engine, but is the outlet flange in the same position? It is marked W48 and looks alot like the 240Z manifold but without the emission tubes. I have tried searching for this everywhere, but can't seem to find an answer. Best regards, Tomzern
  6. Sorry, I know the rods are forged . I meant H-beam rods for added strength, but the original L24 rods are strong enough? It would be nice to rev it past 8000 rpm
  7. I am in norway, so it's a little different here. Not many Z's here, especially not many stroker builds Good to hear Mack! Anyway, I just made another good deal! I asked for an L28 in the Patrol owners club here in norway, and found a guy that had swapped out his L28 with an LD28 So I am buying his L28 and he's taking my LD28 + about $80 extra as payment for the L28. I am of course keeping the crankshaft and also the intake manifold from the LD28. So then I have the LD28 crank, an F54 L28 block, and three heads to choose from. N42 from the L28, N47 and E88. I guess the N42 will be the best choice? Is it necessary to buy forged rods and pistons for my stroker? The bottom end will be thoroughly balanced and weightmatched and I am not going to run it past 8k rpm.
  8. A bit more info about my standpoint and thoughts: As of now I have a stock L24 with the E88 head in the car. It runs good and I plan to use this until I have the 3.1 stroker ready with everything. I also have another L24 which is the original numbermatching engine with the E31 head (the car is a low-vin 1970 Z ). This engine is currently being restored to perfect original condition and will be a "backup engine". The end goal is to have an L31 with megasquirt in the car and the numbermatching engine as a "backup" in good condition. The L24E bottom end needs to be bored because the cylinders are bad. I think I will sell this complete bottom end or just give it away. It doesn't have much value as it is now. I have a good friend that works in a machine shop and he does all the balancing and required machining for the stroker build, so the HP/$ ratio will not be that bad:) When I mentioned a temporary solution I was only talking about the intake. Will the N47 head and intake from the L24e work good on a L31 stroker?
  9. Hi! This weekend I bought a complete LD28 engine and a complete L24e with a N47 head. I was only going to buy the LD28 but the guy also had the L24e so I asked him what he wanted for it, and ended up paying 200 bucks for the lot:) SOO that calls for a stroker build. I took out the V07 diesel crank and it is in perfect shape! Are there any other parts from the LD28 that I should keep? I have read about converting the LD28 intake, but is there anything else worth saving? What about the L24e? It came with the intake and electronic distributor. How is this intake performance wise? I am planning on building a 3.1 stroker with megasquirt EFI. The long term plan is to run ITB's, but that is an expensive affair so I am thinking of a temporary solution with either the L24e intake and the N47 head, or converting the LD28 intake and use it with an E88 head that I also have. What do you guys think? I know that both of these heads are not optimal for performance, but I am hoping to use the parts I have available for now Regards, Tomzern
  10. Quite alot has happened since last update. I mounted the engine that came with the car, hoping to get it to run good enough to use it this season, but I could not get it to run on all 6 cylinders even with good spark on every plug. A compression test revealed ZERO compression on cylinder number 4, so I lifted the head off and both the head, and cylinder no. 4 did not look good. It looked like there had been water in the cylinder for a long time because there were small pores and marks on the wall. Some pics: Head came off: Bottom end went out: Since I have an early-vin car and the engine number matches the VIN, I will keep this engine as a backup and rebuild it to perfect condition over some time, but I was in need of a quick solution to this, so I went and bought an L24 longblock for a hundred bucks from a local Z-guy who had sold his Z and needed to get rid of his "spare engine". He told me the engine had not been used for several years, but it ran good the last time it was in use. The "new" engine in my workshop as it was when I got it: For that price I just took the chance, moved all of my outer components over to this engine and mounted it back in the car. Ready to go into the car again: Voilà=D It runs good, but I have a bad ticking noise that I believe is coming from either intake valve no. 5 or 6. I searched with a stethoscope and that is where the sound is strongest. I have adjusted the valves cold, but not hot. Judging by the frequency of the sound I think it's just one valve. What do you think? The sound is almost non existent when the engine is cold, but as it heats up it becomes stronger and stronger.... Here's a little vid to show the noise: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJOGgwDkPV4 I have also mounted a central locking system with alarm in the car. It works very good Actuator placement: How I solved the wiring to doors: Now almost all the electrical stuff on the car works as well! Only thing missing is the tach! I also got my custom seat covers which I ordered from exotikleather on eBay. I have not mounted them completely yet, but I had to try one backrest to see how it looked, and I am very satisfied with both the look and the fitment What do you think? Yesterday I ordered a Xenon air dam with air ducts. Can't wait to get the car on the ground now =D
  11. Thank you for your answer! I have been thinking about buying new molded foam inserts for my seats as well, but then I read about poor fitment and so on, so I just decided to go with the old ones. I am sure many upholstery shops in the US will redo them cheaply, but the problem is that I live in norway, where nothing is cheap That is also why I want to buy the covers from exotikleather on eBay. Because they offer an affordable shipping alternative.
  12. Hi! I have a 240Z which had 260Z seats in it when I bought it, but they need new upholstery. I want the 240Z style upholstery, but I am not sure if it will fit my seat frames. Does anyone here know? I am thinking of ordering from these guys on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-260Z-Nissan-240Z-260Z-Synthetic-Leather-Seat-Covers-/171190749454?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27dbc3890e&vxp=mtr#shpCntId Has anyone here any experience with the quality on these covers? Regards, Tomzern
  13. I went with the RB20 because the guy I bought the car from here in norway had a good running RB20 package available so I got the car and the engine for a very reasonable price. I am pretty sure it will also be easier to get it streetlegal because of reduced displacement compared to the original engine. Of course an RB26 would be even better, but I think the RB20 will be a lot of fun with about 350-400hp in a car this light=)
  14. Well pictures tend to lie a bit when it comes to finish. The car was "restored" in the US a while before it came to norway. It has been repainted in the original color and when you look up close it is'nt really that nice. I suspect alot of bondo underneath the paint around the rear wheel arches among other places, and the rear bumper senter piece is painted with shitty black spraypaint. The rear bumper sides are covered with chrome finish tape (!).. The reason why I have bought a 70-model is because of the regulations for modifying a car here in norway. The rules changed in 1971, so it is much easier to get a 70-model streetlegal with an RB20 than it is with a 71 and up.
  15. Hi guys! I have been lurking around on hybridZ for a while now, so I thought it was about time to show you what I am up to First of all, a small introduction of myself; I am a 25 year old JDM car lover from norway. I have previously owned and completely restored a white 1991 Nissan 200sx S13 (same as your 240sx, but with the CA18DET engine). A couple of pictures of it: I sold it a couple of years ago and started saving up to buy a 240Z. By the end of last years summer I found my 240z! It was a yellow 1970-model (hls30-02193) that was on it's way from the US. A few pictures from the day I got it: The car seemed to be in a good solid shape except bad bushings all way around, rotten exhaust and some electrical faults. In order to get the car registered in norway I had to change all the bushings so that was the first thing I started with, along with fixing the brakes all around the car. I finished up the rear end first, with a new front diff mount as well, because the old one was torn apart As I Was mounting the front suspension back together with new bushings I noticed everything was a lot harder to mount on the left side than on the right side. Clearly something was wrong, and I was very dissapointed when I found out that the front left framerail looked like a banana seen from above =( It was obvious that the car needed straightening and the left framerail needed to be replaced, so I ordered a new one from zedd findings and stripped the front end completely. When I finally got the car back straight it looked like this: Since the front end was almost completely stripped anyway, I decided to paint the engine bay before mounting it all back together, so I started preparing it for primer and paint I had to remove all the black 1k shitty spraypaint in the front of the car. That was a painful timeconsuming job, but it turned out very good. 2K primer went on after a long preparing process: When it was time for some color I went with black 2K polyurethane paint, and got a professional car painter to spray the engine bay for me. I am very happy with the result! Because the car had been crashed, I could not reuse the old crossmember, so I bought a refurbished one from a guy here in norway and painted it at the same time: So now I have come to the point where I have started to mount it all back together. The plan is now to get it back together completely stock to be registered for norwegian plates, then use it as a stock car for the summer and swapping the engine out with an RB20 next winter. I bought a stock RB20 complete with tranny, wiring and ECU when I bought the car, so the engine is standing in my workshop waiting to be mounted. I just have to register it as a stock car first because of regulations and shit... I have also bought Rota RBX wheels and ZG flares. The plan is to have the car yellow with black flares and bumpers. Ground control coilover kit will also be ordered. That should give you an idea of where I am going with this Can't wait to get it done, but it will take some time because it ain't cheap =/ Please come with any feedback, ideas, tips you may have I really need it, as this is my first Z build. Kind Regards, Tomzern
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