japscrap

one of the last drives of the season. she is pig rich and needs more tuning. At only half throttle the car goes very good. it is almost winter and time to go over every inch of the car.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAGUP1ciHrM&feature=youtu.be

I will shoot a video for you all, in the mean time here goes a picture of what I replaced on the ignition coil. it is the little white ceramic resistor?? that is in the middle of the ignition coil strap.

I have a 1979 280zx n.a, that was my daily driver for a long time. I was out tooling around the town, got home and parked the car. I went back out 30 minutes later to leave, and I had no spark. It would not start or pop or try to run at all. I had a strong fully charged battery with a good charging system, fresh plug wires and plugs. It had a fairly new cap and rotor along with a fresh tank of gas. So I went and checked all of the fuses and replaced all of the fuses located on the passenger kick panel under the glove box. I swapped ignition coils as well as Ignition ballast/resistor with no luck. The car was a very strong runner before it just lost all spark. A little about the car, it has the 2.8 but the P.O pulled the fuel injection and swapped on a edelbrock 4 barrel along with a clifford 6=8 intake. It has the original wiring harness still attached. It ran perfect and was a champ all before just randomly. loosing all the spark, I can take pictures and shoot videos of what ever you may want. I am about to get the volt meter and attempt to trace where I am loosing the electrical current! The rotor also turns in the distributor just fine when you crank. new ignition control unit new cap/rotor new wires new plugs new fuses new ballast resistor I am at my wits ends. I own a 240 with a 2.7 and a forced fed six pack. This is the one car I can not get spark on thus far. ugh.

on the weber dcoes it should be two flat head button bolts. take those out and pull it off, I made my own block off plates out of 5052 aluminum at work. Or you could just buy a set. http://www.pacificcustoms.com/ac129998.html just a random link.

Block off your chokes if you have not yet. Once I blocked mine off, it made a huge difference as they were bleeding out the pressure in the carbs. I drove the car from Minneapolis, to Cooperstown North dakota, which was a five and a half hour drive. The car did not miss a beat, I averaged about 120 miles per tank. I also have a 4 speed and was going 95 mph, in a constant semi boost at 4k rpm.

I also had the intake off and did a pressure check and it was good up to 20 psi, which is far beyond what I am shooting to run. I also added a turbo blanket to keep some heat off the 3rd carb, while the intake was off I went back over all the carbs and used the synchrometer to readjust from last year.

Alright guys, so the car is a beast. I have the waste gate set at 4 psi and she pulls like a mad man. I drilled out my secondaries they were a 88f9 I snagged a .0468 reamer and opened them up a bit! that brought my idle afrs down to 17.5- 19.7. I also then opened up my mains to a whopping .240s I can cruise around the city and hood nice and slow, but when I want to get the rpms up I need to boost. which is an awesome experience. I have been able to give it about half throttle and it goes just as quick as it did in the N.A form. boost comes on strong and is addictive on these straight sixes. I am used to boosting 4's.

my current jets stand as following f11 emulsion tubes. 145 mains, .189 air correctors. I have a holley feeling the 2l swirl pot which goes to a walbro, that then goes to a boost reference 1:1 rising rate regulator, which then goes to a 3/8 line to a fuel block to the carbs. I have not upgraded the needle and seat in the webers.

the car runs great under 3 pounds of boost, and then it lean spikes. I have a 5 lbs spring in the waste gate. I always have my eye on the wide band, around normal cruising, it is any where from 15.2- 16.4 on the afrs. when I do give it some gas and it spools to 3 psi, I can see the fuel enrichment come on, but then it just goes way to lean and wants to go 19.0 + afrs. I do have a fucked up jetting in it. I am curious about your setup and at work tonight I will change the jets and e tubes at work to a similar setup.

Alright guys, I have a quick question. on the BACK of the weber in between the runners. I have a small vent hole. do these need to be plugged/ blocked. I am at work right now and can not upload a picture. http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/KJR111/DCOE_1.jpg the carb on the left, there is a square plate in between the two throttle plates. that is the hole in question.

I will get more videos of the whole car, and some driving videos soon. thank you all!

yes the garage is dirty, also yes that tv is old.

I will give some more updates when I tinker on it more! thank you to all who helped and gave advice and also shed some light on the subject!

Thank you very much for the clearing that Tony D!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/935motorsports/stuff%20for%20sale/surg3.jpg looks like the back plate comes off and I drill 3 vent holds cake walk~! again thank you guys for the info along the way! all the posts are appreciated.

I have been doing a little image searching whilst on break. I should drill a hole for the vent on the upper left hand of the dcoes so boost pressure also goes into the vent hole..... correct? also making sure it is sealed with a nice O ring or what not.

Thank you very much. I much appreciate that, and the help and info! I will browse your thread when I got some free time~!

we shall see what I run into. it will not be hard to change the back plate or modify it. I work at a metal manufacturing facility complete with every tool/machine I could need. do you have a link to your build/ the one you would like me to once over? I thought the bowls will be pressurized with the boost reference regulator. sorry if I am missing a key part here guys...

kpa? sorry for my lack of knowledge!

the car is running race emulsion tubes, along with me retarding the timing a hair. it was running rough, but again it was just to see it start.

I did NOT cover the vent holes up. watch another pt 8 or pt 7 you will see.

Howdy guys, I have not been on a car forum in a long time. I got a update video for you all. flame on?

Alrighty guys it has been awhile since I made a post about this journey. I have hit a couple road blocks along the way that have hindered the progress. One was I blew up the R200 in the Z while I was having a spirited driving experience. The second one was I sold my 1972 Ambassador wagon and purchased a car that would save me some money. Both in the miles and smiles per gallon, the new car far exceeds the old in a lot of ways. The new car to the fleet is a 1979 280zx. 131,xxx. the P.O took out the EFI, and put a clifford with a edelbrock 4 barrel. The newly purchased car came with a rear end that was originally in the car as a spare, the P.O. put in "Steeper gears" as he put it. The interior is in good condition with little flaws here and there. I have had to get this one up and running tops to daily drive while I fixed the rear diff. So those two speed bumps along the way have really set me back for completing this project. But none the less I am moving forward now. The pictures are a bit older, goldy has matching wheels all way round, and the lazy lady (the red one) is now sporting the old chrome 2 piece 14 inch wheels. ANYWAY lets get back on topic, so I shot a update video. here it is!