caperix
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Posts posted by caperix
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Ok so you got everything figured out, sorry I though you were still having issues.
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So just to clarify, as your first post says you bought factory replacement brake discs for a 75 280z. You are installing a msa rear disc conversion kit & the recommended 280zx rear rotors do not fit over the hubs. You have confirmed part numbers & tried multiple sources.
It sounds like you are getting front rotors, can you post a picture?
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With that kit you need to order 1982/83 280zx rear brake rotors, raybestos 9809r.
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So you are working with rear not the front? S30's never came with rear disc so that may be your issue. You need to figure out what rear brakes were installed.
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Does the car have any driveability issues, or over heat? A compression & leak down test or a coolant co2 test will give you a better idea what is going on with the engine. Oil can get in to the coolant at the intake gaskets as well. Rebuilding the engine in it will be cheaper than any swap, so unless you have the time & money to redo the wiring, fuel system, driveshaft & exhaust I would keep the sbc.
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The latter cars can have just the pedals swapped in. I did that on my late 74 260. There are a number of different pedal boxes used throughout the years that you will need to match pedals to for correct fitment. There are a few threads on this site as well as Classiczcars that brake down the changes by year.
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I priced the coil over tubes & bearing adapters through ttt. It looks like just those parts would be $1040. & would still likely need custom length axles.
On 8/14/2020 at 6:58 PM, AydinZ71 said:I like that Idea! I will get a hold of them and ask them to quote. I like how well thought out the stuff on their website is, but like most CA suppliers they are super expensive. If these were made in Houston, I am certain they would be 30% cheaper. It could also be that competition is dwindling due to low sales volume.
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Always good to have more pictures of this swap. Have you decided on how you are going to do the filler neck? My tank came with a f body filler & it looks like I could mount it in the factory location with a little work, but the angle may make fill ups difficult.
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What about using the t3 uprights for the newer bolt in wheel hearings with the long nose r200? That would get rid of the weak link stub axles and let you use cv axles with out adapters. Apex used to list a similar part on their website, but I no longer see it separate from their full rear setup. I don't know how much just the uprights would be but I would think it would be cheaper than chrome molly stub axles & cv adapters.
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As someone who bought an s30 at 16, the advise I would give would be to buy the nicest car you can afford. Many things will get in your way over the next few years, so smaller projects will let you drive and enjoy the car.
It is good to see a new generation interested in classic cars. I hope you find the car you want & get to enjoy it.
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I have not seen one in person but have read of a few being done.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/1933292-dct-transmission-4.html
Here is someone doing a ls dct with an adapter.
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The good thing is the gearbox to engine link is just a simple spline in the middle of the flywheel. As the new corvette comes with a dct that should be a source for a ls dct flywheel. As long as they all use the same spline input then you could make an adapter for the easiest to find dct. In the US the bmw 135 is a good option for a cheap dct but things may be different in Australia.
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Try htg tuning for electronics. https://htg-tuning.com/. I have not heard of anyone working on a dual clutch s30 but have seen other projects using there gearbox controller. What engine are you planning on running?
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Ms42 is well mapped at this point, so you could remove ews your self. Here is a site with tuning info. https://www.ms4x.net/index.php?title=Siemens_MS42
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https://github.com/jharvey/MultiMAP
This is a link to the design for the multi map sensor board.
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Are you running speed density with the ms? If so how are you feeding the vacuum to the map sensor? I saw a build on another board that was using a board with multiple map sensors to get a clean signal with individual throttle bodies. I think it came out to about $20 per cylinder. I will post it I find it, just a thought on your running issues.
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I have seen you're assemblies, I thought they were only made for mustang axles & brakes though. At this time I would like a Nissan hub pattern as I am keeping the long hose r200.
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Does apex sell the rear hub adapters separate from there whole rear end kit? I have been looking to replace the stub axles with a sealed bearing on my 74.
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Of you don't like the floor mounted pedal z3's use a sensor that connects to a hanging pedal. They are expensive new but should be cheap form a salvage yard. Just make sure it's new enough to be drive by wire.
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You could go with the bmw n52 and get a magnesium block, that is super light. But you will have to deal with aluminum bolts on everything that touches it to avoid galvanic corrosion.
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The aluminum case differential started with the f10 5 series. Looking deeper it is not a 188 but a 205al, but the seal kits all say 188/205 so output shafts and covers may be compatible.
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What about using a newer aluminum case 188 diff? They use low drag hearings & less fluid to help with the parasitic losses as well.
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The jam nuts on my car were extremely tight as well. I ended up jacking up the car by the wrench to get it to break loose.
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I think the axles are the most compressed at full droop & extend as the wheel moves up, so I would not think under acceleration you would be getting cv bind. I can't think of what else would damage the adapter though.
Apex Engineered Track Attack - anyone actually running it yet?
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
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Can't you modify the arm pivot to allow more spring travel for a given wheel movement. This could have some benefit on a low z car that has very little suspension travel.