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darom

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darom last won the day on April 16 2015

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About darom

  • Birthday 04/02/1970

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    Bakersfield, CA

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  1. I live in CA, in the summer the heat soaking is an issue for my 76. I installed a 79 fuel injector cooling fan/blower with a duct (ebay has some of them) hooked up to a $5 ebay timer/relay which keeps the fan going for 12 minutes after shut-off. I just wired a button inside the cab to turn it on. The little ebay timer/relay is rated at less than 1 amp so it is wired to trigger a bigger 15amp relay to operate the fan. It does help. Good luck with your project!
  2. In the FSM, Engine Fuel section, check the adjustment of the Throttle Valve switch (or TPS). Under WOT, or acceleration the TPS provides fuel enrichment. Your back firing is possibly caused by the lean mixture.
  3. I am running the same MSD fuel pump on my 76. I re-used the stock fuel pump mounting brackets which 'suspend' the pump away from the mounting plate. The MSD provided brackets do not quieten the vibrations as much as the stock designed by Datsun ones. Even if they are properly insulated with rubber. It is interesting that my old 1989 190e Mercedes had the same idea to suspend 2 fuel pumps on 4 rubber donuts to make them quiet. As the previous poster noted, the MSD pump does need to be in a lower than stock position to allow better suction. If the pump is having bad flow, it will make noises. I removed the stock dampener - I installed the inline electric fuel pressure sender with a gauge inside the cabin before and after (with and without the dampener). The fuel pressure was steady and didn't fluctuate in both cases. Once I saw that, I felt no guilt getting rid of the Datsun engineering Regards!
  4. After swapping fusible links to the blade fuses per Blue's web site on my 76, in addition to the brake light relay, I also had the EGR solenoid's circuit being energized with the ignition key off. Maybe on yours, it is worth checking out as well? I had to re-wire it to allow the igntion key to deliver 12V.
  5. Guys, excellent discussion re: the aluminum radiators. After reading this thread, I took my 3 core brass radiator to the local radiator shop that had been there for the past 18 years and had it recored for $90. A 2-year warranty left a warm feeling inside. The car never overheated here in Bakersfield, CA in 100F+, but I don't do any racing events. Aluminum ebay radiators are like lottery - sometimes you hit a quality product, sometimes not. I wish local places like AFCO in IA can make aluminum radiators for our 280z's. I have their unit in my 67 Camaro and for 180$ this was a piece of welding art. It still has a sticker "Made in US" ('with pride').
  6. From a recent hot rod meeting. A friend of mine invited to bring my classic, didn't specifically ask for a 67 Camaro. I brought my 76 import
  7. What kind of adhesive have you used on your interior (over doors) pieces? I bought a professional adhesive that comes in a can from the upholstery shop (either sprayable or applied with a brush), and now 10 months later, the vinyl trim started to detach . I am not sure if it is because of the 100F weather here or if I applied it in a wrong fashion. Regards!
  8. I used the instructions and parts list from this site (posts my Tim65GT): http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/taurus-fan-wiring-problem.796649/ I saw the rx-7 thread when I was researching it and preferred Tim's setup. A used Taurus fan from a junk yard was $25. The most expensive parts were good relays (75amp), circuit breakers and 6 and 8 gauge wire. It took some time to fine tune the turning on/off fan mode via the potentiometers. The hand held laser temp gun helped a lot. My wife really disliked my lab in the kitchen though
  9. I used brand new Kia door weatherstripping. Even after tweaking the angle of the window door frames, there is a nice gap on the passenger side at the top part, and a slight gap on the driver's side. I saw someone's suggestion to use the HomeDepot's door stick-on weatherstripping to add that additional thickness to close those gaps. It would look ugly as heck, but functional. I'd rather not go that direction.
  10. After the external to internal voltage regulator upgrade with a 280zx alternator, this relay is always energized, even with the key in off position. You will need to rewire it like draztik said. I have a 76 as well, and I had to rewire mine to avoid a potential battery drain.
  11. PM'ed back. Thanks. Found the part.
  12. I am looking for a 280z rear strut insulator in a decent condition. Mine is torn. Please let me know at simzealot AT gmail dot com. Thanks! Denis
  13. I had big holes cut in mine by the PO. I found a local upholstery guy who re-did the panels on my 76. No speaker holes, nice clean look. I would look for a 76 set (good or bad), you can always re-do the panels. If you found one, you can sell your 78 panels to finance your upholstery expenses.
  14. If I were to go with these calipers, what year/car model do I need to give to the parts sales man to get replacement pads? Or if I were to rebuild these calipers (stage 3 or 4), which kit do I need to get? Can anyone identify the car make these parts come from? Thanks!
  15. Rob, I am going to take a guess that the main grounding wire for the ECU is either broken and is making a poor contact. It runs from the ECU harness, goes through the f/w grommet on the LH side, then goes up along with the windshield wiper hoses and ends at the negative battery post. I am assuming this is how it is setup on your 78. Mine is 76 and I haven't checked the 78 FSM yet. The battery negative cable has a quick disconnect connector for the ECU wire which is usually in a pretty sad condition from being bent all the time while you disconnect your neg. cable. What I did on mine is to route the ECU negative wire to the starter negative bolt. The neg. battery cable goes into the same spot. Now I can disconnect the battery negative cable without disturbing the ECU's cable. Download the Fuel Injection Book, and run some tests for the control unit ground circuits: pages 57-60. Regards!
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