jparker893
-
Posts
32 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by jparker893
-
-
I've seen this in a couple other cars and decided to try it out myself and I'm pretty happy with it
-
@speedtech what do you mean by "space up the motor a bit"?
-
Oct. 2010... Goodies came in the mail!!
GT35R divided housing, 2 Tial 44mm v-band WG's, Tial 50mm BOV.
My Full-Race manifold that didn't end up working!! dammit! I had to return this afterwards and ate a crappy restocking fee.. But it worked out for me at the end of the day.
Notice that each runner is cut after it was all put together. It was suppose to relieve stress on the flange and runner during heavy use.
I love car parts in the mail.. it's better than Christmas!
quick mock up of everything..
why didn't that manifold work? fitment? Im looking to do a top mount set up
-
Hello to anyone out there with an sr20 in a z, I already have my engine, just wanting to get some advice on what intercooler and fuel pump you guys bought and recommend. Any response will be helpful, thanks.
I bought the CX racing intercooler and the walbro 255 pump. Both have done great work and I have not had a problem.
-
Blew my turbo on the way back from SoCal. Rather than buy a replacement turbo, I figured it's time for an upgrade.
So I did some research and bought the ISR(formerly know as ISIS) Performance RS3871.
I'm planning on doing a top mount set up and haven't seen any info on what will and what
won't work fitment wise. Is it their any issues that I need to worry about?
I've seen photos of top mount set ups on the interwebs so I am just
hoping is super easy and all I have to do is buy the top mount manifold
and the supporting mods.
BTW: these are the turbo specs
Compressor side 3" inletExhaust side 0.64 A/R turbine housing, Results:This turbo is rated up to ~380hp. -
cx racing had a god intercooler and i got the piping from http://www.siliconeintakes.com/
-
1 piece was as simple as could be, literally just an off the shelf 90. The other 2 pieces, the one right off the turbo, and the one right off the throttle body, were fabricated from various bits and tig welded together. This pic should ive you some idea of how theyre running/routed.
I've got an Sr20det so the routes a little different, but I will check out the 90 degree piece.
This is the route I have to take
-
Just to give you an idea how they fill the front:
My npr intercooler had the tank outlets cut off and replaced with straight pipes fixed at an angle for easier installation, with the piping routing through the two big holes at the top of the core support. You can use the outlets the npr has stock, but youll either need to get fancy with your piping, or trim your core support a bit depending on which exact npr intercooler you get (Theyre all similar enough, but the details on them can be slightly different
I found the same one you posted in the pic with the custom straights for sale on ebay and bought it. What did you do piping wise from then on?
-
Isuzu NPR intercoolers seem to be a common budget minded choice for l28et builds. I see no reason it can't be used with the sr.
Do you know the measurements perhaps? there seems to be a couple different sizes
Found this one, it's from a 93' and the CORE DIMENSIONS - 20 X 2 X 8.5 INCHES
END TANK OUTLET PIPES - 2.5 INCHES
-
Had an extra greddy intercooler of my s13 but it's to big to put into my 280z.
What intercoolers do you guys run?
Is there a way to do a stacked set up to fill the gap? possibly an extra support?
-
I had no problems installing these on the TC... The only place I had a problem was on the steering rack. No matter what I did, I couldnt get the damn things to fit. Everything else went in great.
that's weird my steering rack bushing went in easy, I haven't even attempted the rear yet
-
Nice build man. Great work ,any updates?
Also, you mentioned the tranny mount is a bolt in into the stock location, but what about the engine mounts?
Do those bolt to the stock holes too or are they weld in? Any pics of those mounts?
Thanks!
I had the same question, my mounts are custom and I was told to mount the mount to the engine then drop in the engine and where it sits nice you drill in holes for bolts. I don't know how the mckinny or vildini ones go though
-
Got the bushings in, had to shave them down a little
-
No. Just my club which consists of me and my son and two hybrid 240Zs.
you guys should come check out one of their meets. It's a great group of people with a variety of datsuns, they every first friday of month at round table parking lot off sunrise blvd. I think they are caravanning to canby also
-
That's my build, so PM me if you have any questions regarding... I'm a few weeks from being road worthy if I'm lucky. But, I still have a ton more to do to get where I want upgrade wise.
There are a lot of ways to save money, most by doing it yourself, but there is a heck of a lot of research out there to do to pull it off nicely. Also, if you only want to remain at stock SR20DET hp, there isn't much to do, but it's a heck of a lot easier building up things for later now that doing it later when it's all in. I did a lot of stuff I wanted to do for the heck of it and to clean things up visually that you don't have to do, but it's sure nice to have the battery under the back, with a nice shaved outside and a really clean engine bay.
If you want to run more than stock HP someday, I'd look at the fuel situation and at least run better lines and a surge tank off the main (There are a ton of threads that talk about that setup). I found it cleaner and easier to just cut the rear out, lay in a cell, and have at it with new lines and fun. It was easy enough and will get me to 400 easy if I ever want to go there.
The things you don't think of are endless - Radiators and Fans, Controller for Fans, FMIC, FMIC piping and the custom work there, Mounts, Shaft, Throttle Cable Mods, Rear Diff for the future. Plus, almost any SR20 should be redone with new seals, new hoses, and a good run through...
This is my favorite thread in that regard:
http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/sr20det-engines/107130-my-s13-sr20det-prep.html
If you want the car to look pretty as well, heck, it's a whole bunch more money too.
Just slapping in a SR20 and doing the bare minimum is possible though and cheaper, but 5k seems like a decent and reasonable estimate for the basics.
Did you sell this Z? I thought I saw it pop on the facebook group called Datsun parts and needs. If that was indeed your z that I saw, the guy who bought it had it crushed because of the bad chassis
-
I prefer the rubber mounts for street use. The poly ones lasted two trips and i thought my dash was going to rattle off.
i've heard that rubber mounts wear out quickly due to the higher power motor. Was the shaking really that bad?
-
Just use stock rubber bushings for the TC rod and poly for the rest of the suspension.
says your from Sacramento also, are you apart of David Witt's club?
-
In the top photo you have the large washer installed backwards - the "cup" should be facing the hub, not the bushing. You should seriously consider NOT using all 4 poly bushings - as was mentioned above. Ask me how I know... I was up in the hills on a tight, twisty, 2-lane road.
what's funny is that that washer was grimed on there so I left it that way assuming is was right haha, thanks for the heads up. I'm guessing things got really tight up on those hills?
-
Is the wheel on the ground and weighted by the car? Looks like you have the wheel hanging. The rod might be at an angle. On the ground makes everything super-easy. Things are incredibly harder than would seem rational with the wheel hanging.
.
didn't think to put it back on the ground to straighten things out. Ill give it a try
-
So i've got it partially in but when i put the washer on there isn't enough room for the nut tighten. I tried a c-clamp and also a smaller washer just to get it a little further, but no luck
-
Tie rod bushing? What do you mean by "tie rod"? Maybe my memory or general knowledge is off, but I don't recall a tie rod bushing.
Post a picture.
Edit - just a guess, but maybe you're trying to use the mustache bar bushings in the tension/compression rod spot. They're both big and round. Also note that the T/C rod and its bushings are easiest to replace with the wheels and suspensions weighted. You can reach everything while laying beside the car. Almost impossible to get the bolts back in with the wheel hanging.
wasn't thinking when I was typing haha it's the tension rod bushings. I have the motor out also so no worries on reach. It's bushing on the engine bay side, i'll take a pic
-
I bought the polyurethane bushing kit for my 1975 280z http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-4100AZ . Besides the tiny tube of lube they include, the kit was great. I got the control arms, rack and pinion, and front sway bar all done. I then started on the tie rods. Removal was easy, but I can't for the life of me get the urethane bushing into that beveled pocket where the old bushing sat. I've urethane lube, dish soap, a rubber mallet, and vice grips. Nothings really doing it, I wonder if I need shave off a little piece of bushing or get it pressed. Any ideas? Heat gun?
-
5/16 is the stock size, for feed and return, or the metric equivalent. I have used that size for 750 injectors with no issues. 450ish hp
Would it be alright to have 3/8 with 5/16 return? ive seen cars with smaller return lines before. and just a side question,
do you run polyurethane motor mounts? and if so, does it give the car a shaky idle?
-
So I'm mid-sr swap right now and taking care of a few last things before the motor goes in. One of those things is fuel delivery set up.
My tank rusty as hell, so I bought the Jaz pro street 16 gallon, 70-10 sending unit, fuel cell and 25 of 3/8 fuel line for delivery and 3 feet of 3/8 steel braided fuel line. I've also got a walboro 255 fuel pump to run. So far I have mounted the 3/8's line with extra line on both ends and am fabricating mounts for the cell this week. My question is, what size return line should I use for an SR? also what set ups have you seen that work well?
P.S. the sr20det is stock for the most part, basically nothing that will affect more need for fuel.
Bride door cards
in Interior
Posted
Just bought the fabric off some random site and had a buddy sewn them in once I took the door panel off.
The fabric was around $25