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the_lettuce

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Posts posted by the_lettuce

  1. 1 hour ago, G-Tech said:

    if you could remember what you did for the t-tops that would be awesome? im in the middle of trying to figure out what misc pieces i can use for the doors and t-tops.

    thank you 

    I went back to zcarsource's website they have t-tops but.. one side is available while the other is sold out 

     

    https://zcarsource.com/weatherstrip-seals/weatherstrip-280zx/t-top-weatherstrip 

     

    contact them maybe they'd have something soon? but they are pricy so hopefully there are other alternatives :(

  2. No one cares about the 350 so parts are cheap. Its a cheap car to begin with. Mavericks and collins are legit the same thing. Maves just gives you the option of getting your own 350z clutch which is a hassle because you will spend more than if you went with collins kit. I looked at both and theyre both the same. Now collins just updated his so you dont have to shave the bell housing. That right there is the reason I ordered his. He uses his "own" clutch and flywheel but its just from another car model that he does not want to tell people about which is understandable. Nothing a clutch shop cant fix for you anyway. 

     

    The s130 might be longer so you night not even have to cut it which would be awesome. I know between 350 and s30 it was like a 4-5in difference and when you cut it it lowers it to just 1ish inch which is still comfortable compared to stock.

     

    Yeah from the looks of it, I'll probably go the collins route, thanks for being very informative I appreciate it.

     

    Those are good options, the prices turned me off to be honest. I decided that if I stick with the 2jz swap I will go with the ar5, which is another option if you don't mind a 5 speed.

    I couldn't find an ar5 here, but I guess i'll just try the cd009, thank you for your input.

     

    This is situational, I wanted the option for a twin plate clutch, which from Collins requires using an auto flex plate and an adapter. The custom flywheels are likely just a dual mass flywheel drilled to accept the 1JZ bolt pattern crank and accept a 350z clutch and pressure plate.

     

    SPEC actually makes a twin plate clutch specifically for someone running a CD00X gearbox on a JZ engine. I'll post up the model of the clutch when I get home.

     

    I don't think i'd ever go twin plate tbh, knowing I wont even go over 450hp, but I did find the SPEC clutch you were talking about, they make it for the Mavrick kit. Thank you.

     

    Hmmm. Well I have a 2jzgtevvti with a z32\rb25 trans. Im using collins adapter kit, very good kit and it's pre set for a cd009 trans. It has the bolt pattern ready for it.

     

    rb25 tranny costs the same as an r154 here.. <_<  and well cd009 seems more money efficient for me, thank you. 

  3. So there are now a few ways to do this now. Collins offers two different kits, one of which doesn't require machining the bellhousing. There is also a kit offered by maverick motorsports that requires machining 3/8 of an inch from the bellhousing. Both Collins and maverick offer conversion flywheels that let you run a 350z clutch.

     

    Personally I'd go with the maverick setup and machine the housing. It's what I'm using on my 1JZ

     

    Oh cool, didn't know another company made an adapter kit, thanks for mentioning that, I'll compare both Maverick and Collins and later on see wether I'm more comfortable with machining the housing or not.

     

     

    So I went with collins and so did my friend with a 500+ 2jz in his s30. His version of collins he milled 3/8 off his bellhousing, the version I got was newer and supposedly dont have to mill it down. 

     

    You have to cut the shifter linkage https://sites.google.com/a/vq240z.com/www/shifterrelocation I brought his mount and its super light and easy to install. Then brought a nismo short shifter. Thats all the easy stuff. Collins also offers a high HP clutch kit. 

     

    Overall the kit is VERY expensive 2k BUT the trans is SO easy to find and cheap its not funny. I picked up my CD009 for $600 with 100k miles. a used r154 is at minimum 800$ IF you find one. They shift like trucks, the nissan trans is smooth like butter!

     

    Handles power very well and being newer you can buy a brand new tranny from nissan or z1motorsports for 1700 plus shipping!

     

    My friend has daily driven his 2jz with cd009 240z for over a year and has had 0 issues with tranny.

     

    I havent even started my swap, ive been collect parts but I like the quality of the kit collins produces and austin hoke.

     

    Thanks for clearing things up, I really didn't know about the shifter linkage relocation, not sure if I should actually order that, since you're talking about an S30 and mines an S130, I remember both cars have different dimensions.

     

    I'm kind of concerned about the drive shaft though, but hopefully i'd find a shop that would make a custom one, the nismo short shifter looks cool xD.

     

    R154's are selling for $1200+ here, hopefully scrap shops don't know much about the cd009 and I can get them for cheap.

  4. Looking into the cost of a new trans and adapter, wouldn't it be the same to just rebuild the r154?

     

    I thought of that, but several mechanics said they wont do that, and I don't really have the time, tools or even the experience to do it. The shop that fit my engine and tranny told me its best I get another r154 but the price has gone severely up not to mention I couldn't find any r154's, hence why I thought of going with a cd009.

  5. Hey hybridz, hopefully this is the right place to post it.

     

    I spent quiet a while(2 months and going) looking for an r154 after mine broke, but no luck, so I read people started doing the cd009 swap, and I have searched online for this topic but I couldn't understand much it, it wasn't as clear as I thought it would be.

     

    I know Collins sell an adapter kit, but I also read that it needs to be cut to fit, but do I need more than just an adapter?

     

    I really want something as close as a bolt on as an r154 and as for power I'm willing to hit the 500-550whp this winter, any help would be appreciated.

     

    The tranny would go on a 83' 280zx.

     

    Thanks

  6. I don't know if he's a member here. I think he frequents Ratsun, but his name is Bruce Laureto. He's fairly active on the 280zx drivers. Facebook group, if you do the social media thing.

     

    His 280zx is on bags, with flares. I imagine it's probably one of the cars you mentioned, though.

     

    Maybe give facebook a try.

     

    Best of luck, Mate.

     

    Haha yeah Bruce was one of the 280zx's that I saw. I'll look at that facebook group and probably ratsun.

     

    Thanks again 

  7. Hello Hybrid Z

     

    I own an 83' 280zx with a 2jz vvti, its going through a restoration now, I have most parts for the restoration, just missing on suspensions and wheels and it would be done.

     

    I was going to go with the techno toy tuning front coil kit and s13 for the rear, but a friend of mine, told me about accuair, and I kinda kept thinking about them, they looked cool and the idea grew on me. I contacted accuair and they said they don't have a kit for a 280zx just 300zx (90's) and s14.

     

    I saw two people with 280zx accuairs, but unfortunately they didn't reply to me when I asked them how they did it, so I thought I would get help from here, maybe someone knows who did this build or not. 

     

    I'm wondering if I get s14 kit the rear would be bolt on, just worried about the front  :unsure:, and I dont know if this would be of relevance but i'll go with watanabe F 16 x 8.5 -5 R 16 x 9.0 -13 .

     

    I also thought of going through the the techno toy suspensions and s13/14 then change the springs to bags maybe..?

     

    Thank you 

  8. Hey there,

     

    If anyone has all the emblems as well as the hub caps for the 1983 280zx N/A(T-Top), preferably chrome and not the gold color in pretty good condition, I would like to buy them.

     

    Payment will be through paypal, I have an address in the states. 

     

    Thanks.

  9. Hey guys,

     

    I've been searching the forums and the internet for a while now, but I didn't find the information I need.

     

    I'm gonna order a new set of autometer gauges, but I have one question in the site theyre asking how many ohms it is, and it got me confused.

     

    The only thing I upgraded for the fuel is a bosch fuel pump but thats it everything is stock, the old gauge is just dead.

     

    Thank you

  10. I'm using the R154 5 speed manual transmission.

     

    I'm not familiar with the english terms, but if shifter arm means how I got the gear stick in the stock hole of the 280zx, It didnt fit I had to trim it a bit to make it fit.

     

    this is an old pic as well of the interior I hope its clear x.x its the only one I got 

     

    IMG_3987.jpg

  11. I have a 280zx 83' and I saw these kits but they were just out of my budget, fortunately I found a workshop who was familiar with z's and 2jz engines and custom fabbed the mounts.

     

    He charged me about $100, I'm not from the states so i dont know how much a shop would charge you there.

     

    Here's a pic of the engine if you're interested.

     

    IMG_20140305_152920.jpg

    but thats an old pic, im upgrading the turbo and a bunch of stuff atm :P but just to give you a rough idea even custom fabbed mounts work well :D

  12. The cap only lets air in, through a spring-loaded valve.  Not out.  There's no easy solution.  Unless you confused air escaping with air entering.  Air entering wouldn't cause a "burn" though.  Find the charcoal canister, or the lines to it, and make them work.

     

     

    p.s. Use more capital letters.

     

     

    Well english isn't my first language :P , yeah I might've mixed them up, but if it is working fine for now I'll keep it like that, till I can get around it and check the charcoal canister.

     

    Thanks :D

  13. At low speeds and depending on the pump, a lot of fuel can be returned to the tank.  In addition, fuel temperature rise can cause tank pressurization.  In extreme cases, like an exhaust system falling off, bending the vent line shut, and the exhaust blowing directly on a metal tank - the tank pressure can increase so much that the tank balloons and tears the straps off the car.  Don't ask me how I know that and thank God for Toyota quality.

     

    well.. today I was studying about pumps and stuff like that.. and I had a "breakthrough" idea .. I decided to drive the car without the fuel tank cap.. the fuel cutting problem got solved... the car sounds different as if it was breathing better  :mellow: and it actually feels a lot stronger than before ... so i think for now i'm gonna see if I can find a fuel cap. (i'm hoping I don't run into this problem again.. and i'm hoping its the fuel cap that was the whole cause of it )

  14. The factory system has a vented fuel tank.  Sounds like yours are clogged or someone blocked them off.  Maybe to get rid of "emissions crap".  Check your vents.  There's a nice diagram out there somewhere of all of the various hoses and valves.

     

    I will try and check if its clogged this weekend.

     

     

     

    You car originally vented the fuel tank to a charcoal canister. Most likely an ignorant previous owner removed "all the emission crap" as mentioned above. A pressurized fuel tank is dangerous. Fix the venting system on your tank.

    Well.. the previous owner was a real ass towards the car.. I'm spending soo much time trying to fix it on my own as much as I can, and i'm learning as im going.  Yeah I'm always scared it might build up soo much pressure that it might blow up :(

     

    I will be the third voice of reason here--the charcoal cannister on the inner side of the front right wing has a cap on it, that cap regulated how much pressure built up in the tank due to expansion. After a given point, it released it to the container, which then flowed the releasing gas through the activated charcoal bed and to atmosphere. This adsorbed the fuel vapors.

     

    The important thing here is this: If the vent was plugged, there is little chance the fuel expansion due to heat would overcome the fuel sucked out of the tank in that time and cause a net pressure rise. Generally if you plug the vent, at highway speeds you will see in about two hours problems with fuel pressure being low...and a VACUUM in the tank, as opposed to pressure.

     

    In short drives, I can see this being an issue. In long term drives, especially at high speeds it should draw down the tank if it's indeed plugged.

     

    You need to quantify the pressure there---it should be inches of water, and the volume can be quite great. A compound mm H2O gauge (reads pressure and vacuum) on the Evaporative Emissions Line from the cannister to your tank should read the working pressure of the tank. Sitting idling it will rise to a set point, and then relieve to the cannister. If that valve is sticking it will cause that pressure. It's a separate flapper that breaks the vacuum to your tank...and like I said, I can't explain pressure in the tank after 100 miles of high speed driving, every one I've been in with a plugged line pulled heavy vacuum in about 2 hours-so much so it stranded the guy on the roadside.

     

    That gauge may be your only hope of diagnosis. What you think is 'excessive' may indeed be normal. If you have 120mm H2O with a full tank it will give a short "psssh"... but that same pressure at an almost empty tank will blow for much longer. Chances are you have a sticking relief valve but not a plugged / capped line.

     

    Let us know what you find! 

     

    Thank you for the extensive reply, my stock fuel gauge just died.. and I think maybe thats why I keep having fuel cutting issues? but I will try my best to get around this issue, I hope this will sort out the fuel cutting issue as well.. 

     

    Thanks for the replies guys I appreciate it. 

  15. okay so i drive a 280zx with a 2jz single turbo, prior to that PO had an rb20 installed.. anyways when I bought it with the rb20 engine, I drove for as little as 5 miles, and I would park, turn the car off, open the fuel tank lid, it had sooo much pressure leaving the fuel tank..

     

    when the rb20 died, I got a 2jz, installed bosch inline fuel pump (thinking it might fix the problem) but still whenever I drive 5 miles or even 100 miles, and I open the fuel tank, soo much pressure leaves (it once burned my skin cause the pressure was too strong even if i slowly open it  :icon53:  )

     

    anyways, I was wondering does anyone have this sort of problem? because I did search a few times but honestly found nothing..

     

    Thanks  

  16. well.. I did the 2jz swap on my 280zx .. the only gauges I got working are the battery and fuel gauge, the rest dont work at all .. so now i'm saving for aftermarket ones.

     

    good luck with your project :D

  17. my build as follows its a 280zx (1983) made a swap since my old engine died.. :(

    Motor:  2JZ vvti ($1400)

    Trans:  R154 5 speed manual( $550)

    Motor mounts: custom ($100)

    Trans mounts: custom ($150)

    Aftermarket single turbo exhaust manifold : $190

    Aftermarket Turbo: T70 ($550)

    Exhaust: $320 

    Uprated clutch/pressure plate: TRD single plate clutch ($480)

    Bigger intercooler: Greddy 4" ($245)

    Intercooler piping kit: ^ came with the above

    BOV: none 

    Waste gate: HKS ($130)

    Stock injectors

    Higher volume and pressure fuel pump: Bosch fuel pump x2 ($120x2 = $240)

    280 zx fuel tank 

    280 zx fuel lines

    Rising rate fuel pressure regulator: kinda went with the cheapest one in the store i go to Mines fuel regulator ($50)

    Fuel filter: no idea :P

    stock 2jz ECU 

    Gauges (boost, oil pressure, water temperature, speedometer, tachometer) : $400 (boost and tachometer only )

    ARC radiator (came with the 280zx when i got it ) 

     

    total cost : $4805

     

    It still has fuel cutting issues .. so im working on that atm, but I never thought of strengthening the cars body, how would that be done? as well as which diff. would be good to use? i was thinking of a TRD LSD , would it fit or..?

     

    as well im currently sorting the electricity so.. the electrician estimated $410

     

     

    p.s. I'm very new to this so, if im being a noob im sorry, cause i couldnt find a lot of thorough posts so i'm still trying to get the gist of all this.

    Thanks :D

  18. Hi, I drive a 280zx 1983 turbo

     

    I was wondering the electricity in my car is very weak, if i turn on the radio the power cuts off the lighter/phone charger, so its either i pick radio or charge my phone..

     

    im very new to cars i know nothing at all, that is the reason i got the car so i could learn from it and get ideas/guidance from the pros :P

     

    the car is running fine and is in great shape, its just the electricity in it is pretty low and the lights dont really help at all theyre brightness is too low as well.

     

    i asked a mechanic and he said i should change its spark plugs but i did not understand do spark plugs really help with electricity in the car?

     

    i did however check the wires in my car and theyre in a bad condition, the previous owner just taped the wires with water-resistant tape (or whatever you call it) where the core of the wire is visible so i thought i'd get a new set of wires.

     

    i also saw a few using MSD wires/spark plugs etc.. are they good? (i know the brand is good i use it on my jetski but for cars.. especially an s130 are they good or is there something better?)

     

    i know my questions might seem dumb and stupid but im really knew with this kind of stuff and was hoping someone could teach me a bit about it.

     

    thank you :D

  19. I think it looks great in the color it is painted now. I would improve the car in other areas like braking, handling, and performance.

     

    everything is perfect engine wise and handling, im now focused on body works .. so i kinda need paint ideas since im tired and dont know what to paint it 

     

    thank you for replying :D

  20. I don't see how they'll change the bumper over without charging you an arm and a leg. The s30 is narrower then the s130. You'd have to chop a bumper and extend it among other things. I personally really like the 79 and 80 s130 chrome bumpers.

     

    I do agree with you, but i already found a solution for the bumper, and now the problem lies with the colour i dont really know what to paint it 

  21. i decided to paint my car 

     

    8475233486_8fe6392016_o.jpg

     

    personally i love it but every person i asked his/her opinion said its bad (i dont really care it is my car after all)

     

    anyway, im kinda stuck on what interior to get (i dont want black) i thought like maybe white but im scared it might get dirty over time but do you guys have any options or opinions of both exterior and interior colours?

     

    its currently 

     

     

    IMG_00000765_hdr.jpg

     

    IMG_00000783_hdr.jpg

    the reason i want to repaint is because i got bored xD

     

    Thank you

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