tjcannon

That may not be a bad idea. I can borrow a trailer from somebody, swap the tranny myself, then cart it over to the shop to have the new crossmember made. That should keep my cost down to another $250, assuming I can find a trailer to borrow. Otherwise not sure how I'd get it from one place to the other. Thanks.

Simple version: How much should I pay the shop to swap my new T56 in where my T5 is now? Long story because I feel lazy for not just doing it myself... I'm posting this on here rather than driving to the shop because I'm in Iraq right now and just trying to get a feel for how much it's going to cost me when I get back in a couple weeks. I just bought this... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200163084783 The problem I have is a complete unavailability of tools. I live in the barracks on Fort Bragg, NC, so I don't have a garage or anywhere to keep tools. That limits me to one small tool box for minor repairs and such. I need quite a bit more than what I've got to swap out my T5 for the T56. It seems the only option that leaves me with is taking it to the shop where I had my T5 crossmember made and getting them to swap out the trannies and make a new crossmember. So the question is... what should I expect to pay? What do you think a reasonable price would be? I always did things like this myself (other than fab work) when I lived in Houston, so I have no clue. I paid $250 for the very well made crossmember for the T5. Thanks in advance, TJ

I've been searching for quite some time and can't seem to figure this out. My Jeep Grand Cherokee has a plastic piece that sits on top of the upward-facing throttle body to direct air in. Like this: http://www.kandn.com/images/l/57-1506-2.jpg That seems like the most logical solution to my problem. I currently have a round 14" air cleaner on top of my Holley Street Avenger 670 in my Z. It baaarely fits. I don't like using all that hot engine compartment air, so I want to build a cold air intake for her. I can figure everything else out, but I'm curious if someone makes something like that Jeep piece for carbs. Another option would be something I saw yesterday on TV I think. It was a complete enclosure for the air cleaner with a gap between the edge and the filter element. It had hoses coming off either side to dual air filters in the front. Basically, anything that lets me redirect air from somewhere else is acceptable. Here's what I'm working with, except for new wiring and new 14" air cleaner: http://www.tcannon.net/pictures.htm Worst case scenario I'll see if I can pull that plastic piece off my Jeep and test fit it, then go find one in a junkyard if it works. I'll have to wait until I'm back in the US next month for that one though. I want to have it figured out before then, so I can just get to modifying when I get home. Suggestions?

I have my Optima in a plastic battery box in the spare tire well and I've never had a problem with it. Do what you want. Don't move it just for the V8 though. My 355 fits with plenty of room even if the battery was up front.

Well first off I should be more specific. The URL is http://www.thescirocco.com/quaife.html But aside from that, the Quaife warranty states that it is only valid when purchased from an authorized distributor with an original proof of purchase. So I guess I have to talk myself into $1500 now to buy it straight from AutoTech instead of $1300. I'm completely sold on the idea of the helical gear differential, but maybe if I read more about clutch types I can talk myself into a $550 Power Brute instead. I'll leave this up for the info in case anyone's searching for it.

I came across this site at http://www.thescirocco.com and the guy says he can do $1300 shipped for a Quaife 44.309.150 (the one for our cars). Everywhere else I'm seeing them listed for $1495 so it sounds like a great deal. The problem is when I went to Paypal him I saw he has 0 feedback on Paypal. I know Paypal offers some protections, but I don't want to go through the hassle of having to deal with that process. Any ideas, or know of somewhere reputable where I can get a similar price? Thanks.

Thank you! I'll check into both of these places. I appreciate it. After talking to several people, I was beginning to think there was nothing better than Maaco in the area.

Anyone? I tried searching but with no luck. I'm in Iraq right now, and the cash is piling up back home, so I suddenly find myself able to afford to make my Z not ugly. I live in Fort Bragg, NC, but all we have around there is Maaco. I'd be willing to drive a good distance to find a reputable paint and body shop. Something in Raleigh would be preferable, but if you know of anywhere in the region, please share. Thanks. Here's a pic of what they'll be working with... http://www.tcannon.net/pics/z/1981%20Hybrid%20280zx/DSCN1778%20(Medium).JPG I'll be having all the dents and dings fixed, everything stripped, and fully repainted. Also, my frame rail just behind the bumper on the front driver's side is crushed a bit like it was in a low speed collision. I'll be having that pulled out as well to line up the bumper/hood/lights.

Here's my setup... 81 280ZX 350 small block .030 over Vortec heads w/ 2.02/1.60 valves & radiusing Rams horn manifolds Air gap intake Holley 670 Street Avenger T5 transmission Stock fuel pump So 4 days ago I raced a RX8 and was dead even with him from about 30-70 or so. My car kinda felt like it was losing all power after about 3000 rpm's or so. 2 days ago I bought a Holley Blue electric fuel pump. Yesterday I installed it and moved my pressure regulator from over the exhaust manifold to the inside of the passenger fender at the firewall. I was driving around and saw a C6 'vette pulling onto the highway so I thought "What the hell? Why not get my *** handed to me by such a sweet car?" So I pull up beside him and gun it a little, and we go from about 70 to 130ish and... by the end of it his nose was at my window!? What have I done!? It's amazing how one little thing can make such a HUGE difference. She's definitely still a work in progress, but I just had to tell everyone about my first C6 race. Haha.

Here's my setup... 1981 280ZX 2-seater 355 SBC with Street Avenger 670 Vortec Heads with 2.02/1.60 valves and runner angles smoothed out a bit. T5 tranny Stock diff Stock suspension Stock wheels I don't know much about suspension, but I'm definitely on a budget. I tried searching to no avail, but I am looking at buying a set of Tokico twin tube struts and getting the suspension techniques 1" lowering springs later when I can afford them. I'm not worried about lowering the car, and if the stock springs will work fine, I'm just gonna pass on the aftermarket ones, since I have plenty more to spend my money on. Opinions on the Tokico Twin Tube struts for the 280ZX that squats like a beast on any sort of acceleration? Opinions on what I should do with the spring situation? Thanks. I have pictures at http://www.tcannon.net/pictures.htm Ignore the wiring mess. That was done by the previous owner and will be taken care of as I have time.

Cool! I just found it at Summit via Amazon.com for $1349.95 I am having some difficulty finding things, since I am purchasing it with a gift certificate from the T-Mobile Sales Rewards program. But apparently I can use the certificate at Amazon, so 8) I'm happy. This means I might just be able to get it before Christmas. I will continue to read on it, but you guys post what you know about it. Thanks, TJ

I plan on buying the Commander 950 / 700CFM TBI sytem from Holley, but before I commit to the $1700 purchase, I would like to know that this system will be able to handle whatever I throw at it. I want this to be my last fuel system change. How much HP can you support on a 357cid SBC with a 700CFM throttle body and 65pph injectors? I know the injectors can be upgraded, but assuming I go nuts and want to stroke my engine and supercharge it, will I have the ability to find a throttle body that will work with the Holley sensors/plugs/computer? Thanks in advance, TJ Here's the system... http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/C950/C950TB/f950-22S.html

All problems fixed in under 2 hours. This is an informational post for people with any of my problems. Oil pressure senders do not like RTV. I was thinking "This engine is running damn well to have 0 oil pressure, so I unscrewed the oil pressure sender and lo and behold, pulled a string of RTV about 2 inches long out of it. Started my baby back up, pressure normal again. Next issue: pushrods. VERY easy to do with two people. I backed it out til it clicked BAD (only way oil would come out), then tightened it (with a friend standing with one ear on the end of a pipe and the other end of the pipe at the pushrod/rocker joint) until the clicking stopped, then gave it 1/4 more turn. I did this for each one and they now all properly lubricate themselves and the engine sounds SO much meaner. Everything working great. Yay!

Disclaimer: I did not build this engine initially, so I'm trying to figure out problems as I find them. Okay, my SBC was making intermittent clacking noises, which I had no clue what they were. I had also been having issues with oil pressure dropping off for no good reason. So I pulled off the oil pan and checked the rods/mains/all bolts were torqued properly. I noticed while I was down there that the pickup had come off the oil pump. I had a brand new Melling high volume/high pressure oil pump sitting around, so I went ahead and put that in and assumed that had been the noise I was hearing. Well, I started it back up and the same noise was there. So I then moved on to assume that it was a siezed lifter, and since I had been planning to cam my Z anyway, I pulled the old stuff out and dropped in a 282/288 cam a buddy of mine sold me after putting 2500 miles on it. Started the engine (GOOD GOD THE WORLD IS COMING TO AN END!) That cam sounds gooooooood. But now my oil pressure is sitting at either 0 or 60 PSI, and no oil is coming through the pushrods. I began the process of adjusting the lifters (back out until it clicks, tighten until it stops, tighten 1/4 turn) and oil began coming out of one of the pushrods (cool). However, I glanced in the car real quick and noticed the oil pressure was 0, so I quit for the night, to go back later with a friend to watch the gauges. Does the SBC have an oil bypass? Would a clogged filter cause the 0 psi oil pressure problem? I'm going to get a filter tomorrow, just because it's easy and might solve some problem. Advice please? What should I be looking for? Thanks, TJ

Sorry, I should have specified. The engine that is in there right now is temporary. I have a perfectly good block sitting in my storage shed that I'm building up, but I just want to fix what I have for right now. You would have to hear the noise. I can't imagine it being anything severely wrong with the engine.