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Screwdriver

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About Screwdriver

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  • Birthday 07/19/1956
  1. Did you drill the OEM plastic out any to sink the switch lever in to ? If so, what size and depth? In other words, does the switch lever tend to lose contact as it swings from one side to the other?
  2. Thanks, will do. I read somewhere recently where someone made their own door seals by buying something close and cutting them to length. Is Precision to only company that was molding these things?
  3. I am restoring a 1976 280Z 2+2.Called MSA today to order the weatherstrip kit and they told me their suppier- Precision isn't supplying anymore. Can anyone tell me where I can get a complete weatherstrip kit for a 2+2 ? It is different than a coupe. Thanks in advance.
  4. Ugh...it still sounds like the resistor pack is bad. Try a continuity check thru each spring with a 1 1/2 volt battery and a light bulb. Each spring will only affect how bright the light burns but it should at least burn thru each of them.
  5. My problem ended up being the resistor pack in the fan housing. It was burned slam up. When I replaced it, everything started working normal again. Check yours out and let us know.
  6. Thought I would go ahead and post some pics of my burned up resistor pack. If anyone has a spare to offer, let me know. I don't want to adjust and improvise unless I absolutely have to. 76 280Z 2+2
  7. If someone can tell me what the Ohm rating is for each of the resistor spring elements, I will just go to Radio Shack and get the resistors and solder them in place. That way, I should get the benefit of getting my fan speeds back and won't get any warm air until the motor warms up. Where I live, the A/C is much more important anyway. But, I will need those fan speeds for that. If I'm thinking right, this idea should work without burning anything up.
  8. This is great info. Thanks a bunch. I just gotta ask, do I also have a fan relay in my '76 280Z 2+2 ? I might even entertain straight wiring(bypassing) the resistors(heating elements) if anyone has any ideas. I live in the South and can definitely wait until the engine warms up for any warm air.
  9. Thanks for the reply. Yes, I supplied 12V directly to the fan motor (Blue & White wires) and it fired right up. Also have 12V showing right across the fan fuse in the fuse block. Verified continuity through the switch. What I did find this weekend was a completely fried set of heating elements (spring type resisitors) up in the blower housing. They were burnt so bad that half the board was gone and solder had melted on to the fan cage below. So now, if that is fried, will that stop voltage from ever going thru the switch and where on earth could I possibly buy one ? MSA doesn't list it in their catalog. I would even consider leaving it out if someone knows how to straight wire past it.
  10. I share your pain. It is truly a mess to try to figure out. And presently, I am trying to get my heater fan to come on so that I can test the rest of my system. I did the Delco/Remey Alternator swap. Tossed the fusible links and Voltage Regulator as far as I could throw them. Then did some re-wiring while installing the Maxi Fuseblock conversion. Also replaced 2 gauges in the dash with SW direct gauges so, no electrical connection. All fuses and voltages in fuse block have been checked good with about 12V across most of them. Everything appears to work fine. Great idle and all. Except... No Fan ! Can't do any ECS tests without it. Suggestions anyone ??
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