Screwdriver

No, I never did. That is the LAST part of completely finishing my car. I may end up having to cut it myself. Please let me know if you find somewhere selling it. Everything is soooooo hard to complete these days .......

Does anybody know how to remove the tint from T-Tops that came on the 280ZX's? The tint in mine is cracked all over the place and pulled away from the sides. It almost looks like it is sandwiched between two pieces of glass. Hard to tell. What has everyone been doing about this, and what options are there ? Other than that, my T-Tops look like they can be re-used after some cleaning up and trim painting.

Well, I have to buy new rotors anyway for the 81. So, I think your saying buy 82 rotors and install all of it on the 81. Do the calipers from the 82 just bolt right up then. Also, is there any trickery with proportioning valves that has to be considered?

i have a 81 ZX Turbo that has small rear disc brake pads compared to an 82 ZX Turbo. Question- can I just take the calipers off the 82 with the larger pads and just bolt it on my 81? Is there anything else that needs to be done or is this a straight across bolt on up grade? I have an 82 Turbo 2+2 parts car I can use the calipers off of.

I am parting out a 1982 280ZXT 2+2. My daily is a 1976 280Z 2+2. I'm thinking about putting the door electric windows from the S130 in my S30. Does anyone know if the door window glass from each of these 2+2's is interchangeable ?

Can I use an S130 (ZX model) air conditioning compressor in my S30 (Z model) ? Is this a direct swap ? Are the high & low side ports exactly the same ? As best I can tell, it looks like the flows are reversed. So, altho the hoses attach in the same place, the high and low sides are not the same hoses. The brackets and mounting look identical and should mount fine. Need some advice.

Can anyone recommend a place to send my factory turbocharger to for a rebuild ?

Does anyone know a good source to get a semi-custom (I want one piece front over tunnel) Carpet Kit for a 1976 280Z 2+2 ? I can find 2 piece fronts that split at the tunnel but not a one piece front without the tunnel split. I'm not using a console is the reason. I will need the entire kit for all of the interior but not the shock towers. Just the flooring.

The schematic specifically states "Good Engine Ground" ..... speaks volumes 🙂

Yes, your response about how the system works and the schematic you provided led me down that path. Thank you sooooo much !

I totally agree! And further more, I'd have to say that all S30's ARE NOT wired the same. So, there is no instruction manual that can be written to make it fit everyone's car. After not sleeping for about a week constantly thinking about this, I finally fired it up last night. I can report that Megasquirt is extremely sensitive to ground points. I moved from chassis ground to engine ground and it liked that. I was even thinking of adding another ground wire from the battery to the engine. It runs like a dream now. I think I added a bunch of horsepower with this mod. And no more smoke out the tailpipe. Now two questions. My dash tachometer isn't working at all. I plugged the MS tach out into the blue wire at the old coil location that I think drove the tach. Didn't work. Any ideas ? Also, what is the sequence to "Burn" a change in Tuner Studio ? After setting my timing with the engine running, I hit "Burn" and it killed the engine. Wasn't expecting that. Also, what is my next move now? Do I need to go back thru Tuner Studio and calibrate all my sensors or, just start driving it and get auto tune to do its thing first?

Excellent diagram! Thank you. I was able to talk to the supplier shop today. My 280Z is an automatic transmission. Most of his installs are manual tranny's. He suggested that the neutral starter switch (or Inhibitor switch as the FSM calls it) may be interfering with my voltages. And that I may need to join some wires together like I did at the ballast resistor to complete the circuits. Do you have anything you can share along this path ?

I read this very powerful statement in the MSExtra documention : The tach input is one of the most important signals going into the Megasquirt and correct system operation is not possible until the tach input is correctly installed and configured. Until the Megasquirt reads the correct rpm, nothing else will work. Where is MS getting the tach signal from? 280ZX optical Dizzy and using LS2 COP. I'm still not getting anything at the coils during cranking. Maybe this is the culprit ?

Ok, I did watch the CAS video and did the tests. With the 3 wires, I have 12v, Gnd, and 0-5v signal. For now, it appears to be working properly. And, you are correct that the ignition advance is showing as one of the MS gauges and shows 12 deg while cranking. So that looks correct. I think I found the culprit at the coils. The switched 12V (key on or cranking) is not there. So, let the fishing trip begin. Any advice on where to start or how to tackle this? Thanks so much for helping.

Thank you. Yes, we ran the CPU and harness on the suppliers test engine and was provided the base tune. I was led to believe that I had to install it, set the base timing and crank it up then, start the tuning fun. At this point, I can't even get base timing set to move forward. My bad on the terminology. They are the GM LS2 coils mounted on a bracket in a Coil Over Plug configuration with a short plug wire. L28 NA engine. I do have a good volt meter and test light. I just don't know where to check and for what value. The GM coils have 4 wires and the Delphi style plug. The Maxima CAS has 3 wires. Which wires do I check and for what values? Also, if the Megasquirt Ignition setting are not set right, will that cause this to happen? If so, tell me what values to put in the boxes to make this work. I have to know I have everything right on my part before I take the coils or Dizzy CAS back to the supplier and say they don't work.