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spanishfly

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Everything posted by spanishfly

  1. I have a 1978 for sale on ebay(Northern,Ca) 3.1 stroker with 5 speed(youtube link) Take a look she runs like a v/8
  2. I have both a complete n47 intake with throttle body and injectors and exhaust manifold pulled from my 1978 280Z. I also have many other stock parts left over as I swapped in a 3.1 stroker.
  3. After reading my factory service manual(1978 280Z) fuel section a dozen times as suggested I started the various electrical component checks, not far along I noticed green patina on most of the connections(both sides male & female). So I broke out the electrical connector cleaner and a tooth brush and cleaned all electrical connections under the hood. Even after the cleaning the car ran fine until I tried to install the metal cover that houses the relays and fusible links to the side of the engine compartment. It just so happens that up the road is a 1978 280Z sitting and rusting in an open field. So I took a drive up to it and removed all four of the relays that are housed in the " black box." I replaced the largest relay a five pronged(fuel pump control relay) and the other four pronged (fuel pump relay) and secured the "black box" back on the side wall via the four bolts. I said a quick prayer and turned the key and just like magic the car now runs fine. I have spent the rest of the weekend searching the internet for info on how to repair automotive relays. Re-soldering the pins on the electrical board is free while most ebay sellers of these relays want $100.00. Thank you all for all your input.
  4. Thanks for the link,it has the same info that my 1978 280z service manual has. I read through the engine fuel section and checked for any disconected wires but found none.I replaced the fuel pump but still the same problem 40 psi before startup,the engine starts and then the fuel pressure drops to 0 psi and the motor almost dies before the pressure rises to 40 psi again. I pulled the metal box that houses the fuel pump relays and the fusible link holders to look underneath and started the engine,and the fuel pressure holds at 40 psi until I try to install the cover back to the chassis? I now know there is a short or one of the relays or fusible links has a short or something is grounding. Anybody encounter a problem like this and better yet the REMEDY?
  5. I went to start my 1978 280z and after initial startup the fuel pressure drops from 40 psi to zero and the engine starts to die and then the pressure shoots back up to 40 psi.This keeps happening during warm up so I shut it off. I also notice one of the fusible link covers was dark gray,so I pulled the cover and the thicker fusible link was fried. From these two new problems is there a definite componet to check or a direction someone can point me in to help me remedy my new fuel problem.
  6. Ld 28 crankshaft, l24 piston rods, arias 89mm(flat head with valve pocket),jdm timing set, N42 head 11/1 Compression,ported & polished,490/290 camshaft,arizona zcar performance oil pan. Engine built in Montebello,Ca. I know that the stock fuel and ignition system are inadequate and i will upgrade when money allows.I have the timimg set to 15* BDTC and am running 110 octane race gas through 270cc turbo injectors. JSK fuel rail rising rate fuel regulator,60mm TB,cold air intake, and 3 to 2 to 1 header. I will have to look to see what plugs I bought from napa. I have not messed with AFM,I do not own any specialty tools like a vacuum gauge.It is much faster than stock, idle is rough with a lope, I do not want to hurt the engine due to ignorance and the lack of true mechanical training. I have only built and restored Datsun 1600 roadsters in the past. I would love to find a 280z wizard within 3 hours drive who has much more knowledge and tools than I. I found a dyno shop in San Jose(6 hour drive)but cannot get an appointment until May 17th.I am sufficient at brake jobs,clutch work, and basic automotive.
  7. I am in need of a mechanic who knows way more than I do when it comes to fine tuning my 3.1 stroker. I live in the middle of nowhere so finding a knowledgeable zcar mechanic is easier said than done. I can bring the car to you and will pay good money to a GREAT mechanic who can tune my motor to it's full potential.I am halfway between Eureka and Yreka on the Klamath river, so if your a reasonable distance lets talk about specifics.
  8. 3.1 stroker swap complete, dyno tune needed

  9. I have a 1978 280Z with a 3.1 stroker. If you are interested get back to me and I will get you pictures and info.
  10. I have a 1978 280z with a 3.1 stroker/5 speed. This car screams and has no rust. I cannot let it go for $9,000.00,if you are interested, get back to me and I will send you pics and all the info. I am 5 hours north of Sacramento.
  11. is almost finished with a 3.1 stroker swap

  12. I have a 1978 280Z with a 3.1 stroker motor. I have 240Z bumpers to give it that 240Z look. This car is clean/no rust. Shoot me you email if you or interested.
  13. I am looking for an original 1978 280Z five speed shifter knob. I have seen these in two colors, green and red. I prefer a red one in excellent condition.
  14. I have a n47 webbed intake and an exhaust manifold both off my 1978 280z.The exhaust manifold has one broken stud.All smog emission parts included,$50.00 plus shipping(approx. $30.00).
  15. There is one on ebay item #150345456531 current bid is $235.00,this flywheel is brand new.
  16. I have a nismo lightend crank pulley #12303-E4620 single pulley.I'm not going to use it because I want a/c,it came on a new stroker motor I purchased.The guy I bought the motor from said he would give me $100.00 credit towards additional parts.Shoot me an offer,and you pay for shipping.
  17. I have a Motorsport ceramic coated 3 into 2 with y-pipe new in the box.I was planning on listing it on ebay,I'll wait a couple of days,price is $185.00 plus shipping,I live on the California/Oregon border.
  18. spanishfly

    Stock 1978 280z

    Bone stock 280z
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