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lwrnclightner

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Posts posted by lwrnclightner

  1. I have a sds em-2 6f,,,, I have abandoned my build so I will be getting rid of all my turbo stuff.

     

    It is complete! Every single component. I even have the pully balancer with the pick up magnets already installed, Install manual, with a couple maps from prev owner.

     

    I am asking $450 + shipping&PP

  2. A stock head and cam will struggle with that A/R.  It will spool later in the rpm band and the stock head will top out after 5500 or so.  But if you intend to do head work, that turbo may work for you.

     

    Thanks, thats what I thought, just wanted to be sure before I junped the gun.

  3. I have the opportunity to pick up a new never used one for a really sweet price. I am on my cell and cant access the sticky, but I want to know if the 84 a/r turbine would kill my Low end. I know 63 a/r is optimal, but would 84 take the fun out of it?

     

    Stock block and p90a, will be going with 500ish injectors, large intercooler and meth injection,controlled by sds 2 fuel and spark.....

     

    If its not a good match for our engines then I will pass and buy the proper size...

     

    Thanks

  4. Correction: on an N/A it can go anywhere from the back of the intake valve to the air cleaner--most OEM's place it in the air box. I used the IAT from a '91 240SX on my 510.

     

    On a TURBO car, though, the IAT MUST be from the intake valve to either the turbocharger discharge or the Intercooler outlet---ideally in the airstream with flowing air as close as practical near the intake valve for proper air density calculations of the air as used by the engine for combustion. If you place it in the air box on a turbo car you will never calibrate it properly for the temperature difference between on boost and off-boost operation...

     

    Ok, now I am starting to get the picture, well for the IAT anyway. So let's see if I have this right.  If I plan on running a water/meth inj in addition to the intercooler, then the IAT sensor should be after both of them but as close to the throttle body as possible, am I on the right track there?

     

     

    My turbo swap IAT went in the spacer block behind the throttle shaft.

    The hole you show is cold start injector, and that's where my idle bypass was connected.

     

    It may be easier for you to put it in the IC tubing or J-Pipe.

     

    I'd use that big hole for idle air bypass...

     

    Now I must admit that the idle air bypass has me a little confused, only because I will have the intake build that Senza Pari provides (if the group buy #2 ever kicks off). I will start to research exactly how the bypass works and what type of device I need to implement it.

    Here is what I will attempt to find, let me know what I am missing from my list...

    1. What a idle air bypass looks like and where to obtain one (new???)

    2. Where does it terminate to?

    3. How is it controlled?

     

    When I brought this car, I had no idea that I would be learning all this fun stuff. I can't wait to get it running and feeling what it feels like to be in tune with your ride, to know whats going on inside and out.... To be one with my ride...

     

    Kudos to you guys for being here and pointing me in the right directions, as I go. 

     

    Hey Tony D, you remember my first post,,, asking what these were? post-41568-0-46655200-1413250044_thumb.jpg

  5. I have been putting together the ingredients for my turbo swap, and it's coming together quite "Niftily" if you ask me (Noobest of the Noobs).

     

    1. Anyway,  I read through the sds install manual and  today as I spread my kit out (just to admire it) that my sync magnet is mounted on the inner radius which is where the trigger magnets A,B,C are mounted. Now the pully is scribed with the outer radius and a hole drilled just next to this magnet which is where I assume it was originally designated to go. post-41568-0-81302000-1413151034_thumb.jpg

       Now in my nooby brain I am thinking that this will screw up the trigger signal being picked up by the hall sensor and that it is not going to see a sync signal. Help me understand why this was done this way.

     

    I guess if this was done in error I can drill the magnet out and place a new one on the outer radius where the manual states it should be.

     

     

    2. Can someone confirm or clarify for me if my inlet air temp sensor goes in the 1" spacer where the red arrow is pointing.. or does it go upstream of the throttle body?  post-41568-0-23095500-1413150998_thumb.jpg

     

    Thanks for any insight that you send my way!

     

    Lawrence

  6. Is 2f worth getting me started, or should I hold out for a later version?

     

    My goal is a modest 300ish hp/tq range using a t3 04e 50trim garret.

     

    Sds seems a tad bit more straight forward and easier than megasquirt to me (noobest of noobs)..

     

    I originally posted asking would I be able to use the Ls1 coil set up I have waiting, but I am not able to find any finished projects with this combo. So sds 2f looks like it can do what I need....right?

     

    Thanks

     

    Lawrence

  7. I need a n42 intake manifold, however I have noticed that there are ones that are webbed and ones not webbed.

     

    I think look wise the non-webbed ones look better, but looks vs function is what's important, right...

     

    So would I be doing my self a diservice by finding a non webbed one?

     

    By the way, it will be used as a core for the mod that Senza Pari offers.

     

    Any insight is appreciated and thanks in advance.

     

    Lawrence

  8. "if there is a improved method to blow through triple carbs these days."

     

    Yes, I got an e-mail from Newton just the other day, the laws of physics have changed and don't apply anymore!

     

    Asked, Answered, Documented: Search and Read.

     

    The "Slow" RS-Okinawa car had 444kw (Bosch Eddy Current Dyno) in 1987, no computer controlled ignition, no efi, no crankfire timing.

    LOL!!!

     

    Point WELL taken Bro.

     

    I've been introduced to a  fellow z driver  who recently dyno'd 640Hp with his set up, so hopefully when we talk he will shed his experience about the science of blow thru.

     

    Oh and I heard back from Whitehead performance, and was informed that they would be glad to help mewith the necessary hardware. Good news Indeed.

  9. There's a guy in our club (Ontario Z Car) who just made over 600 Hp on a 3.1l L28 with a triple Mikuni blow-through setup. No EFI. I wouldn't have believed it if I didn't see the dyno sheet. So it can be done. I don't have many details beyond that though.

     

    Nigel

    Thanks Nigel, 600Hp wow, I'd die an early death with all of that. Actually I don't desire the absolute fastest beast, just fast for me, if that makes sense.

     

    Anyway, How can I get in touch with this fellow?

  10. It is funny how this subject is rehashed over and over. Tony D always tries to set the record straight on the drawbacks of blow through carbs and to use EFI. There is no one that I know of who has as much experience with blow through set ups on Zs. For myself I will probably get my blow through supercharged running one of these years and learn the hard way that I should have just used the triples normally aspirated. But what the heck, some of us are just too hard headed to listen to the experts on the subject and can only learn by our own mistakes.

     Guys I'm sorry, I know this has been beaten to death, but I'm new to this whole scene. I realize this thread died a long time ago but I'm curius as to if there is a improved method to blow through triple carbs these days. are there still hard heads still running this set up? If so can someone enlighten me. If not, what is the best way to turbo my engine if I currently have triple mikuni's that most say will not work with a turbo set up. I just want a semi daily driver that can get me there fast as hell, or faster.

     

    So are my options? ....

     

    1. The ITB with the engine management set up is attractive but what kind of street speed will it deliver?

     

    2. How much of a nightmare would converting to efi with turbo be?

     

    3. What other turbo options would I have that I don't know about (if any)? Is there something like a bolt on turbo manifold with some kind of fuel management/delivery out there?

     

    Again, please excuse my lack of knowledge on turbo, and keep in mind I have an expert that is going to get me there, I am just waiting in line for him to get to me, we have discussed this over the phone but again I am eager to start learning what my options are going to be once he gets to me.

  11. I know this is an antiquated thread and topic, buuut... I am new to the turbo them.

    A little background so that I'm not eaten alive.

     

    For months I have been saving and planning to have a stroker built. Last night talking in depth with my engine guru buddy who will be doing all the work, he convinced me that stroker has some concernable drawbacks for how the car will be driven, almost daily street purposes. He informed me of all of the benefits of turbo and that with some tinkering that my trip mik's are doable but webers may be preferred for a blow thru scenario. Now that I am starting to research blow thru turbo I see that this is old news and I would be one of very few that would still be running that set up. But I love the carb look, sound etc etc etc, So I think with his expertise it can be pulled off.

     

    I'd like to start researching my best options in todays tech. I would think it should be a little easier than when this thread last ended. I see Tony D has EXTENSIVE first hand knowledge and he made it work. Tony D can you and all the other pros help this fledgling get started? So with what I have already... F54 block, n47 head and trip MIkuni's, how much would I expect to need to get me in the turbo game? I hear that turbo can be had for less than the stroker so ball park what am I looking at $$$ wise and what kits are available to get me started. To have it done right and last, I know it won't be cheap and I will spend what needs to be spent without cutting corners to get it done and stand up to a little abuse now and then.

     

    My engine guy knows exactly what he needs to get it done, but of course I couldn't comprehend being the first conversation over the phone talking turbo stuff, and I am the type that wants to know how it all works and why, so while I'm waiting for him to get to my project I thought I'd start to educate myself.

     

    Thanks in advance guys, Lawrence

  12. Thanks everyone who chimed in. I was informed exactly what and why these isolators/insulators where used. However I have also discovered that because the manifold was modified a little I can just go with the correct insulator for my carbs.

     

    And srgunz I can't give up, I'm just getting started LOL>  The car runs so like T-Bone states, I can only imagine how she is going to run once I get em rebuilt and correctly mounted etc. Now I have to go about learning how to properly tune these babies.

     

    But it's all love for me. A learning process for sure.

     

    Thanks again Fella's

     

    Lawrence

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