TooSlowToCare

On my board, Q16 is not populated. I went back and saw where the BIP373 isn't included with the board, so i'm assuming this is my issue.

I don't have a stimulator board. The two led's lit up when i set the timing at my dizzy, and one flashed while cranking the car. And jeffer, by following the diyautotune write-up, is making a jumper from igbtout to igbtin an actual step, or is it what cutting out the C's and making jumper from r26 to igbtin is doing? I'm a little confused there. If i need to jumper from out to in, how should i go about doing it? I've had two different people work on jumpering this board, and i feel like this step may have been skipped. *Edit - I hooked the test light up to pin36 today while trying to turn the engine over. I didn't get any signal, though i don't know if the pin will even send enough signal to trigger a test light. And according to diy's article about adding in a jumper for igbt's on 3.57 board's, it seems like jumpering igbtout to igbtin isn't a step. http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/using_bosch_bip373s_with_megasquirt.htm Was cutting out C12 and C30 a necessary step, as well as jumpering D1? The differences between the 3.0 layout and the 3.57 are getting me a little confused. I just find it odd ms is getting an rpm signal but not firing the coil.

I finally got my harness made, and i can't seem to get spark. I'm running a ms1 v3.57 board with msns_e029 code loaded, and the board jumpered like the diyautotune article says (i jumpered from the pad on r26 to IGBTIN and cut out C12 and C30 then jumered D1) in a 73 240z. I'm getting rpm signal in megatune when cranking. The only thing i can think of, is that i may have my coil wiring wrong since there was some discrepency in wiring to the + terminal and getting my stock tach to work. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=126686 I wired the coil as best as i could see fit, but i have power to my test light on both + and - terminals of the coil under cranking. I tried every combination of looping the three wires from my stock 240z wiring to the coil, but none of them made a difference. Could i have botched the coil wiring and cause it not to fire? I checked continuity on pin 36 going to the - terminal and it was fine, but i didn't have a chance to see if pin36 was even sending signal. Maybe Matt can confirm that i did the jumper correctly, since the writeup was for a v3.0 board and the 3.57 is a little different. Thanks in advance guys, i need to get this car on the road asap.

So the B/W with constant power should go from coil + to tach, and the B/W with power only when cranking and the G/W with power only when cranking are the two that should just be soldered together?

I tried to follow your guide to checking the wires since mine on my 73 240 wires are different, but i've been having strange results. I have 2 B/W wires (one is loger with sheilding around it, and has power with the key in "on" position as well as when cranking), and the other one only has power when cranking. Then I have a G/W that has power only when cranking, and i have a B wire that has no power. On that same harness, but extended from it, where it goes to the temp sensor in water neck, i have a Y wire that has pulsing power with the key on, a B/Y that has power when cranking, a B with no power, and a G with no power. I can't seem to match up the pulsing yellow with anything in the wiring diagram in my haynes, and i'm unclear how to connect the wire to go to my coil and give me tach signal. Can anyone help shed some light?

Nvm i found what i was looking for.

That's an OE replacement clutch kit. If you're looking to do any upgrades i'de suggest going ahead and springing for a clutch with a little more holding force. Certainly so if you do any kind of spirited driving with the car.

The 2.5" ID tubing should be plenty for your i/c since most cores use have 2.5" inlets and outlets. If you're shooting for 500+hp then you may consider 3", but most likely that will just be overkill and will make finding a core a little more expensive. As for the autozone tubing, it will work just fine. Aluminum piping will help dissipate heat a little better, but for a budget you can't beat the exhaust stuff. Couplers are one of the main areas that you really shouldn't skimp too much. You can buy quality silicone stuff from http://www.turbohoses.com/ for pretty cheap, and they even sell the t-bolt clamps to secure them. Make sure that when you're fabbing up the piping you (or have someone) run a bead along the rim of the pipes so that the couplers and clamps have something to keep the pipes from blowing out of the couplers under high boost. And for i/c cores check out the godspeed (or whatever the ebay name is) cores. They are way cheaper than all of the big names (greddy, spearco, etc.) and usually perform almost as well. Just make sure the cores are bar and plate as opposed to tube and fin, and you'll be fine. Hope that helps. -Blake

Yea i did the same in my nissan hardbody when it's ignition went out, but left it as a permanent solution. I was trying to avoid that on my z since the rest of the car is so nice i didn't want a starter button. If anything, i would have hooked the windshield washer button up as a starter as others have done. Haha.

Like the title said, i've searched the archives for a week and a half, and haven't found anything more than i have already tried. My car is a '73 240z. About two weeks ago the ignition went out in the same manner it has this time, but i replaced the ignition switch and the problem was solved. Now, once again, when i turn the key to start the ignition the relay in the passenger floor clicks, as well as the acc relay in the engine bay, as it did before i changed the switch the first time. I've swapped relays, starter, and jumped the harness behind the ign. switch to eliminate it as a possibility as well. All fuses look good. When i put my multimeter in the plug going to the ignition relay, i can't get a reading from any of the 3 prongs when i turn the key to start, but im not sure if i'm just doing it incorrectly (ground to bare spot on door hinge and hot to the prong) or if the plug isn't getting power. I would think if the plug didn't get power the relay wouldn't click though? Also, the relay that was originally in the car clicks when you try to start it, whereas the replacement one i have doesn't click at all. Also the original relay clicks when you plug it in to the harness and the replacement doesn't. I'm guessing i have a wire grounding out somewhere, but just wanted to get second opinions before i have to rip my dash out and chase wires. *Edit - After looking for my fusible links i removed miles of electrical tape that the p.o. left for me and discovered that the spade connector on the back of the starter ha come loose inside of the "loom" made of tape. So 4 1/2 of checking harness and relays to find it unplugged.